Scarp 2

removable struts, vented or mesh pole sleeve (more aero)

Always thought a cuben moment would be sweet

I recently wondered how it would be to use collapsed trekking poles at the 4 corners in place of the struts, perhaps in an outer sleeve, in a DIY tent similar to the Scarp 2. Also I might want to make it partially single-wall rather than a double-wall tent, to save weight.

Brent, do you want the struts removable for stuffing in pack or because of the weight?

Debbie, using trekking poles is an interesting idea. I picture one pole per corner versus the dual arrangement that is currently used.

I like how the Scarp vents from the ends and the bottom of the entrance, but would probably bring the fly down to the ground. I think I would probably eliminate the vents in the top and try to mimic the Atko vent above the door.

I am also deciding how wide to make it. Most of the time would probably be solo, but occasionally the grandsons will go. It almost needs to be a Scarp 1 1/2.

I have never winter hiked before so I will probably wait to add the crossing poles.

Yes, one pole per corner is what I meant. But if there aren't two of you using it, you'd need to bring along a couple of extra poles/struts when traveling solo, unless you had the ends come to a point rather than a box shape; something I also considered…

I would like removable struts for packing purposes. If they could be carried separately then the unit wouldnt be so large. I have a couple of TT moments and that is the only thing that I dont like about them. As it is now I roll up the entire tent inside a portion
of ridgerest and carry it on the base of my pack.

It's not neccesary to build a whole Scarp to have removable struts. I did a remodel of a Scarp to make the struts removable, and it was a tiny fraction of the work that would be required to do a whole tent.

Plastic caps made of arrow nocks with the tines cut off and buffed to a round shape were placed at one end of each strut. Arrow inserts with the usual 3/16" inner diameter were placed at the other end. The grosgrain strut sleeves were cut off near the canopy edge, and sewn into a loop to take shock cord. 3/16" diameter studs with caps were attached to the shock cord so they would hold the struts in the sleeves. The studs at each bottom corner were also connected by cord at the ends so the struts would not spread more than desired. That is not the whole remake, but should give you a good idea.

This job was done on the initial version of the Scarp. There were 3 problems:
(1) The sagging of the canopy was severe when the silnylon cooled; (2) The sagging of the liner was severe, period; and (3) It was hard to get this four corner tent pitched evenly taut in the first place. Worried about wind performance.

I ordered the newer version outer, and may go back to it, but only if the liner can be made taut, and elastic material can be placed at the corner guys in a way that keeps the tent reasonably taut.

This experience convinced me that silnylon needs to be used in a tunnel-hoop tent that keeps it taut, or over a dome-shaped frame that physically prevents the nylon from sagging into the living area. So I agree that a Scarp design using one of the cubens that is more water resistant and does not sag would be a great idea.

Edited 7/2 to change 1/16 to 3/16"

It's not a scarp, but I put put the foot end pole/strut on the outside of my DIY tent which makes it really easy to put up and remove. Check the third photo here:
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/xdpy/forum_thread/46644/index.html

Stuart,

Great looking tent!

I have tried to avoid building a frame to model my project, but after seeing your results I think that will be this weekends project.