Apr 12, 2011 at 4:51 pm #1272133
Hi, I am readying for my first attempt at MYOG'ing. What I have in mind is a pot stand for the "Boiler". I found on on a Japanese UL site. As I don't read or speak that language, I'm going to wing it. What I need to know from you guys is what types of materials to use. I won't steal his picture, because I couldn't even properly give credit for it. However, here is the link to (Jotaro's?) site. http://ulgoods.exblog.jp/
About 3 screens down from the top of the home page is a picture of a sierra cup atop a flaming Boiler. Some spin off of this is my ambition. Any help would be appreciated.Apr 12, 2011 at 5:01 pm #1723756
Hi Jake, sorry I don't have more advice, but I did want to share some other ideas with you. Here's one that someone made for the kelly kettle
Also, kelly kettle sells their own, and its said to be made of aluminum. It might be compatible with the BCB, but I'm not sure how to get ahold of one of these in the States
Other people have just made a primitive stand out of wire mesh (aka hardware cloth)
If someone had sheet aluminum or titanium and access to a waterjet or laser cutter, this would be an easy way to make the accessory. Even simpler, you could probably make it out of ti foil and some wiresnipsApr 12, 2011 at 5:07 pm #1723759
Thanks Konrad. I may go with some type of design like that. I'll turn my engineer brother into my new best friend likely.Apr 12, 2011 at 5:21 pm #1723765
No problem….I was able to use google translate to see if I could decipher anything, but the translation wasn't great and uninformative. But the more I stare at the picture you linked to in the japanese blog the more I think his pot stand resembles a esbit wingstove. It looks like he modified it by removing the esbit bowl, and just turned it upside down. See the wingstove here
Likewise, I bet you could take one of the titanium version esbit wing stoves (different design that the one on amazon), remove the esbit box, and it would make a great portable stand (if the dimensions are right) Check out this thread to see what i'm talking about
Everyone and their mother makes the Ti Esbit Wingstove…just search on google…usually 10-15 bucks
Again, remove the firebox, flip it upside down for clearance of the chimney, and find a pot large enough to utilize the "feet" of the stoveApr 12, 2011 at 5:49 pm #1723779
Why not just use a bit of 'chicken wire' formed into a circle?Apr 12, 2011 at 7:36 pm #1723824
Konrad, you may have nailed it. I have to admit that I didn't think of using existing items. The chicken wire would work, but it seems to me that I'd need some space below the pot for the stove to ventilate. Maybe just a small gap.Apr 12, 2011 at 8:07 pm #1723842
I didn't mean a flat piece of chicken wire, I meant like this:
.Apr 12, 2011 at 8:11 pm #1723845
ah! Ok. I pictured the hex type chicken wire. That makes more sense. Is it fairly sturdy with 2 cups of water in the pot? That would be my only concern since the fire cup has a smaller base than the boiler anyway. Thanks for taking the time to put up a pic, BTW.Apr 12, 2011 at 8:20 pm #1723854
"Is it fairly sturdy with 2 cups of water in the pot?"
If the boiler is sturdy/steady, this addition is sturdy. If the boiler/cup is unsteady, this will, of course, be unsteady as well.Apr 15, 2011 at 11:19 pm #1725161
@tkoutdoorLocale: Pacific Northwest
In the stores I'm familiar with chicken wire is a type of fencing that is much more flexible than that with much bigger spacing in the wire. The product shown in the photo is referred to as "hardware cloth" by its description in hardware stores in my area. It's what has been referred to earlier in this thread. Also, there's something to consider with the use of that product. I've only seen the type that's galvanized. I'd guess that's galvanized too, but I don't know. The galvanized coating when burned in a fire produces toxic gases. It's a well known issue for welders. People can and have died from exposure to the gas it produces. If it can be found without galvanizing it would be safer. I might also try a 3 oz. cat food can with the top and bottom cut out with holes for ventilation in the side. This would basically be a modified version of my cat can alcohol stove (w/o bottom).
I'm hoping they'll make an adapter for the top hole that directs the water to the side when it boils (in the next batch or as an add on adapter). I'm on a couple of notification lists for the next production run.Apr 16, 2011 at 12:57 pm #1725288
@aeronauticalLocale: Stoke Newington, London, UK.
I suspect that Devin has already been in the Boilerwerks Labwerks to create a useful accessory such as this for us to enjoy…
Oh', and if you're using chicken wire… Remember to take the chicken out first! (o:Apr 24, 2011 at 7:52 am #1728713
I have done this. It works well with two squares tall hardware cloth cylinder. I have gotten 10 oz of water to start getting tiny bubbles in a cut down beer can pot atop the boiler by the time the boiler boils (~7 min). So it does work and it is stable.
I am abandoning this idea though, because the water is barely warm enough for a small cup of tea and it is just easier to put more water in the boiler, put it back on the coals, and add a few more sticks to make your cup of joe.May 2, 2011 at 10:18 am #1731987
@tkoutdoorLocale: Pacific Northwest
I was hoping to use this idea with the BC Boiler to get longer boil times for different types of food by adding the cup/pot to the burner portion on an improvised stand (like the hardware cloth stand) and continuing the boil. This would allow me to use foods that need more cook time than just 6 minutes exposure to boiling water in a bag. That's largely motivated by affordability of the food, secondarily by more generic food choices. Instead of $6 a pack for dehyrdated yumminess I could get Rice-a-Roni variations that need a little more cook time for a fraction of the price (and even weigh less in some cases), maybe even Raamen as emergency food supplies. Sounds like that might be too optimistic. Any tricks that might still allow me to do this, or is it completely hopeless?
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