Include climbing gear for Gannett?

[S Long]

I am planning a Gannett climb this May and wanted to pick the brains of anyone who has done it in early season conditions. I am debating on whether or not to take a rope and crevasse rescue gear or just an axe and crampons. I've climbed it in the summer with just an axe and crampons but haven't been up there in the winter before. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Mike Clelland]

QUESTIONS:
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What route?

Are you skiing in? Lotsa SNOW in May! Skiing might be a wonderful way in.

Whatever you do, I would take a rope. Who are your partners? The crevasse situation is minimal, it ain't alaska. But, there may be tricky sections that requre a belay, or roped travel in pairs. Or, a short rappel.

[S Long]

We plan on coming in from Elkhart to Upper Titcomb and then up and over Bonny Pass and across Dinwoody Glacier. Then pretty much up the ridgeline to the summit. We definitely plan on skiing in and pulling sleds. I am going with some climbing partners I have been climbing with for years. They tried it last year and ran into a storm they didn't have the supplies to wait out. They made it to the top of Bonny Pass and the weather window closed faster than they thought so they went back to camp and were pinned down long enough they decided to pack it in and try again some other time. Together we have plenty of cold weather and camping experience, as well as climbing and snow travel experience. I just wanted to pick some brains whether or not to take the climbing gear (and associated extra weight). Skiing is a wonderful way to go. You can cut right across both Seneca Lakes and across Titcomb Lakes as well.

[Author]

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