What is better as belay jacket: waterproof down or synthetic

[Ismail Faruqi]

Hi, I have a budget of about 18oz for an insulation piece however I'm still torn between down jacket with waterproof shell and synthetic shell. Specifically, between a Rab Xenon and a Feathered Friends Hyperion jacket.

Rab Xenon:
-> Primaloft Sport, 133g/m2 in body, 100g/m2 in arms, 60g/m2 in hood
-> 18oz

+ Water resistant warmth
+ Cheaper street price

– Primaloft loses insulation after years
– Less warm than FF Hyperion

? What is the inner fabric? Is it strong enough to withstand abrasion when wearing it over hardshell?

Feathered Friends Hyperion:
-> 5.1oz of 850 down fill
-> 16oz with eVent Shell (asked to an FF rep)

+ Waterproof outer
+ Significantly warmer?
+ Virtually no warmth loss after years

– More expensive
– Seam not taped
– No hood

? Is Pertex Quantum inner strong enough to withstand abrasion when wearing it over hardshell? Is it resistant enough to repel water on hardshell? What inner fabric should I choose?
? Which is better: order it with hood or use separate hood?

Need advises. Thanks!

[Richard Nisley]

Ismail,

Do you plan on using the garment for camp use (assume you will be relatively dry when you put in on); for mountain climbing belay use (assume you will be wet when you put it on); or worn while doing active high MET activities such as mountain climbing or backpacking (walking with a full support pack)?

What is the minimum temperature that you anticipate for the primary use defined above?

[James holden]

what area … down works in the rockies, less well on the coast

what temps …

day trips or longer extended trips …

get a hood … no question about that

fragile inners depends how you rack your gear … if your coat hangs down to yr sharp pointy gear, its not the best thing

primaloft sport is significantly "less warm" than primaloft one …

[Ismail Faruqi]

Richard, thanks again for your prompt response. I live in high precipitation area, so it is assured it will be wet, although I don't do climbing. I will use it for rests between hike, camp chores, and for sleeping. I won't use it while doing active high MET activities. I will use it over my: 1) 150g/m2 merino base layer, 2) polartec power dry midweight, 3) rain shell. I anticipate 15F temperature.

[Stephen M]

hi Ismail,

The Rab Xenon only has 60gm2 of fill.

Cheers,

Stephen

[Ismail Faruqi]

I'm sorry, I meant rab photon ;)

[Stephen M]

No worries at all,

I have a lot of rab kit and its very good.

[Ismail Faruqi]

so… which is better :D

[Richard Nisley]

Ismail,

The Rab Xenon is camp chores thermo-neutral at 42F and the Feathered Friends Hyperion is camp chores thermo-neutral at 24F. Your objective of 15F is better suited to the Hyperion. Unlike down sleeping bags, down garments won’t accumulate significant moisture in wet environments. Both your increased MET rate and the bellows effect prevent this.

[Author]

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