Hiking the Grand Canyon?

I hike in the Grand Canyon at least twice a year typically for 3-4 nights each trip. My preference is to go solo in the less visited parts of The Canyon; I wouldn't know how to locate a guide and I don't like large groups. The best preparation is to spend some time deciding where you want to go and then make your plans accordingly; I would recommend one of the "Corridor" trails as a first endeavor rather than one of the less traveled routes.

Water availability varies a lot from place to place and it is seldom conveniently located. On the Bright Angel trail water is pretty generally available during most of the year. Other routes such as the Red Canyon (New Hance) trail have little reliable water until you reach the river, especially in summer.

A lot of inexperienced hikers get in trouble in the canyon. Heat, dehydration and fatigue are the major problems but exposure (fall danger) and loosing one's way are also problems. The typical trouble-prone hiker is a fit male between 16 and 30 years of age with some prior experience backpacking but not in the Grand Canyon.

Start here http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm to begin researching the art of hiking the Grand Canyon backcountry.

Charles,

Thank you very much. Your input and the FAQ page on the link that you provided are just what the doctor ordered.

I also found this thread on BPL that helps with travel plans to the canyon. Do you have any additional input regarding travel to the canyon?

Thanks again,

Newton

Just my experiences for what they are worth.

Trip prep: Our group always hit March for backpacking from the South Rim. Great month to do it – not too hot, not too cold (in the canyon itself – the Rim is usually a bit colder, requiring a heavier sleeping bag if car camping). ADD: Not sure if a soloist would get first dibs on permits, or even an outfitter/guide as it is really first-come/first-serve. I sent a permit for Spring Break in a few hours after midnight, when permitting for my desired month opened, and my requested itinerary and secondary itinerary was already full, maybe Jan or Feb would be less crowded.

Trip length: We always spent several days in the Canyon to make the drive worthwhile. Also hiking out will take at least 4+ hrs from the main campsite (Cottonwood) with a dawn start, just winding up the wall of the canyon. If going into the canyon on the dayhike, there are signs posted for turnaround times.

HK,

"…hit March for backpacking from the South Rim. Great month to do it – not too hot, not too cold (in the canyon itself – the Rim is usually a bit colder, requiring a heavier sleeping bag…"

What kind of temperatures are we speaking about?

Thanks for the input.

Party On,

Newton

see this: http://www.hitthetrail.com/index.php
click here (upper right corner of every page is weather forecast): http://hikearizona.com/interestDEX.php?SHOW=YES&ID=34&SUB_ID=21&WID=15&STx=3

youre welcome. mike

All depends on weather: some years a 15F bag was needed in March as we got some minor snow drifts on the Tonto Tr., though in one hot year I successfully took a chance in bringing a 45F bag and was OK, …. a little chilly in the pre-dawn but we had to be up anyways to make our next camp.

Even in March, the afternoon sun and heat forced us to hit the next camp a little after lunch 1-2 p.m., finding some shade behind boulders, and taking a siesta before setting up our tents around 4 p.m. ,when the shadows and shade grew longer (also: my old group were all seasoned desert hikers – got too be too old though … or seasoned). Water was critical and once we took a morning "off" to hike to the Colorado to fill up our hydration bladders from the Tonto Tr. Remember they can grow fruit down by Phantom Ranch year-round, as it's very warm down towards the bottom.

The Corridor is a little more civilized and the ranger talks are great.

Has anyone on BPL done the canyon?
I have.

What were some of your trip preparations? Did you use a guide service? Was it an organized group trek?
No unique preparations for the canyon vs other hikes. I didn't use a guide service, but have multiple friends who guide there if you want recommendations. I hike independently generally, or I'm the organizer.

What is the water availability?
It depends on the trail. Sounds like you'd be a candidate for the main corridor. Plenty of known water sources from water fountains and the like.

Did you do it in a single day or did you hike in, camp and hike out?
I've done all sorts of things in the canyon.

—
You're referring to the grand canyon by alluding to the well trodden main corridor trail. It's actually a huge wilderness with epic potential and variety.

"…the well trodden main corridor trail…"

"Sounds like you'd be a candidate for the main corridor."

Is this the Bright Angel Trail?

I've experienced wet, cold and dehydration on different trips since I started hiking.

This may seem obvious but it seems like the canyon is at the opposite end of the spectrum, mostly hot and dry.

From what I have gathered so far the heat and water sources are the biggest priorities in the canyon.

I use a tarp, Meteor bivy, Ridgerest pad and top quilt as my sleep system on the AT. It is good down to 35 degrees using my base layer and clothes. How should I adjust my gear to accommodate the conditions that I'll see at the rim and in the canyon?

Thanks.

Party On,

Newton

@ Mike and Jack

What is up with your avatars? Every time I look at this thread they keep changing.

:O

Our one trip to the Grand Canyon was perfect.

We got permits for early to mid-November. Night before in Mather Campground on the South Rim (empty), down the South Kaibab Trail, two nights in Bright Angel campground (almost full), up the Bright Angel trail with an overnight at Indian Gardens campground (mostly empty), then out.

Weather was cold at the top (daytime 20 F), mild at the bottom (60 F day, 35 F night). Easy to carry more than enough water. No water down the South Kaibab trail, plenty at the bottom and on the way up (from streams and at Indian Gardens, no water at the 3 Mile and 1 Mile rests). We used a RayWay tarp, two-person quilt, and a Caldera Cone.

When I lived two hours away I hiked and backpacked a bunch in the GC. I've done several full Double Crossings (in a day), other dayhikes, and quite a few multi-day trips, both on and off trail.

Seasonal weather stats can be found on the NPS website. The South Rim is around 7000', the North Rim around 8000' or more, and the bottom around 2500'. Plan your sleep system around the elevation of where you'll be camping.

The NPS BC office gives pretty good, conservative beta on water sources. The Steck and Butchart books are invaluable resources for those venturing off the Kaibab/Bright Angel superhighway.

Other than doing homework about temps and water sources, my #1 recommendation for GC backpackers is to get into good shape. Bring your trip pack with a trip load and go hike up and down the hillest, rockiest terrain you can find. Folks underestimate how hard going down can be, roast their quads on the first day, and struggle for the rest of the trip. Going light obviously helps here.

I hiked in the Grand Canyon when I was 17 and have been dreaming of returning ever since. Looks like late 2011/early 2012 my dream will finally come to fruition. My brother and I are planning a 3-4 night trip. It's been 11 years since I've been there and it was on a guided hike so I'm glad to stumble upon this post as I have a few questions myself:

– What is the average time needed to apply for a permit?
– What are the reccomendations for water purification? I currently use tabs but with the length required to disinfect vs. the availability of water, would a steripen be a better option?
– Would a bivy be more advisedable vs. a tarp? I'd like to go as light as possible but I don't know what the wildlife situation is like during the winter season (ex: insects, rattlers, scorpions)?
– Any food storage issues regarding coyotes? Hiking mostly on the east coast I'm used to having to hang my bear cannister in the woods. What's the typical procedure in the canyon?

– What is the average time needed to apply for a permit?

Depends on when you go and what you want. The CGs in the main corridor fill up, totally, during the busy season of March-October. Do in January and you can have your pick. Zone further afield usually have enough space to give you plenty of options.

– What are the reccomendations for water purification? I currently use tabs but with the length required to disinfect vs. the availability of water, would a steripen be a better option?

You'll be filtering many liters at a time. The steripen might be tiresome. I always used tabs.

– Would a bivy be more advisedable vs. a tarp? I'd like to go as light as possible but I don't know what the wildlife situation is like during the winter season (ex: insects, rattlers, scorpions)?

I always brought a tarp, and almost always just slept out under the stars. The super scorpion paranoid might want a net tent or the like. Rattlers aren't going to come find you in the night. ;)

– Any food storage issues regarding coyotes? Hiking mostly on the east coast I'm used to having to hang my bear cannister in the woods. What's the typical procedure in the canyon?

Ravens and mice are the things to worry about. Some of the more popular CGs and sites have rodent problems. Lots of folks use an Ursack for this, or hang it from a tree of bush with a bit of tin on the line to keep rodents from crawling down it. When I backpacked I always camped in lesser used areas, and just laided my food bag by my head (or under it as a pillow). Never had a problem.

Thanks David! Yeah we're looking at a Nov-Feb timeframe so that's awesome. Regarding the tarp: I was really looking forward to sleeping under the stars so again great news. In your opinion; How would a 30deg bag fare for Nov-Feb with a tarp?

Rob, winter in the GC can be COLD. There is lot of temp data available on the web. Temperatures in the GC are determined largely by altitude. So will you be at the river (warmer), on the Tonto (cool), or the rim (FREEZIN')? Also that time of year tends to be dry. If you do get rain and wind you want to be sure to have a reliable way to pitch a dry shelter. Tarp and a bivy are probably fine you just want to be well practiced at pitching.

Thanks for the input Phil. Yeah I experienced New Mexico's nightfall in February a few years back and it dropped to the low 30's. I expected it to be very similar if not colder in the GC around that time of year. I've also read that it's pretty dry then, so I was planning on going with a tarp, bag and pad combo, no bivy. Do you find there's a lot of condensation in your bivy come sunrise with the drastic temp changes in the GC?

@John, i dunno. i went to look at my profile and the avatar changed when i went back to it, only several seconds later. must be a BPL bug. maybe they just dont like my sly smirk.

an easy comparison of GC temps at the river: see Phoenix temps. In July, it can be 110 plus. On the Rim(s) however, you'll enjoy 70's.
that's Arizona for you. ;)

My 2 cents for what they're worth…

– What is the average time needed to apply for a permit?

Permit requests are accepted on the first day of each month 4 months prior. So, for an April hike, you apply December 1st. Check the GC NPS site for backcountry permit request form and details. I recommend faxing it in on the 1st. They "shuffle" all the requests received on the first, so there's no advantage in faxing it in right at midnight.

– What are the reccomendations for water purification?

Just use what you normally use. Just be aware that the Colorado River can be very turbid.

– Would a bivy be more advisedable vs. a tarp?

I hike in the GC in the spring and fall and have rarely needed a shelter. I take a tarp just in case but have actually only slept under it twice.

– Any food storage issues regarding coyotes?

Culprits are mice, ringtails and ravens. I carry a metal mesh foodsack (like Outsak). I never hang it. I just leave it 15-20 feet away from where I'm sleeping. I've never had any food taken. They provide ammo boxes in the corridor campgrounds for food storage. Rattlers are shy and will generally stay out of your way. Shake out boots in the morning to avoid scorpions. Insects, in general, aren't an issue.

Newbies are generally steered toward the classic rim-to-river hike on the corridor trails and Phantom Ranch can be fun but there are much better itineraries that are doable if you have backpacking experience. I usually recommend the Hermit loop. Water management is pretty straight forward and you get the quintessential Canyon experiences — side canyons to explore, a Colorado River camp, a bit of the Tonto trail. You can even take a "detour" with an extra night at Bright Angel Campground for the Phantom Ranch experience. Ron Adkinson's "Grand Canyon Hiking" is a good guide for first hikes in the Canyon.

Rob, the humidity in most of the GC is very low. You might get some minor condensation at the foot of your sleeping bag in a bivy. There shouldn't be any problem at all in drying out. Have a great time!

If I had it all over to do again, I'd go with a good bivy (waterproof – probably eVent or just use a water-resistant one, keeping a tarp handy just in case). Even in the primitive camps, space is often at a premium and staking in the hardpan can be a challenge.

The rangers have ticketed my buddies for planting stakes outside the designated hardpan, and the rangers look at your permit, making sure your stuff (even stakes and lines) are in your exact campsite, especially in the Corridor.

I used an MSR Zoid 1 that goes up with only 2 stakes and was still looking for rocks to tie off on.

For a winter trip I'd be ok with a 30 degree bag (if the rating is accurate) and a medium insulating jacket (long nights) if I was camping down in the canyon (Tonto or lower). I'd want more bag for spending a night on the rim.

You'll here this elsewhere, but the top few thousand vertical of the south rim trails are often very icey in winter. Microspikes or the like are highly recommended.

Winter is the best time to go IMO.

John,

Not sure if you still more info after getting great links to the Grand Canyon National Park and Hike Arizona. I found myself lost in the trail reports reading lots of interesting facts. In case you do, here's some personal thoughts…

USGS has free maps available for download, though they perhaps may not be needed for corridor camping (some are older but good for the curious):
http://store.usgs.gov/b2c_usgs/usgs/maplocator/%28ctype=areaDetails&xcm=r3standardpitrex_prd&carea=%24ROOT&layout=6_1_61_48&uiarea=2%29/.do

I've been down the corridor trails twice now and plan to go out again. Both times we descended via South Kaibab to Bright Angel Campground, up North Kaibab to Cottonwood Campground, return to Bright Angel Campground, up Bright Angel Trial to Indian Gardens Campground and up Bright Angel. All of these are corridor trails. They are well maintained and wide (including mule pee/droppings). Hard to get lost even if it's your first time. Can't say you'd need a real map.

I hiked in Oct 2010 (5 days) and May 2011 (10 days) and had warmer but bearable temps. Both of these months seem popular with hikers as they can avoid the extremes of winter and summer temps.

South Kaibab has lots of sun on it even into the early evening. And the long exposure can really do you out if your not a serious sun lover. Hike early if your afraid of heat/sun rays. Once at the toilets on the Tonto just before the tipoff(marked by an emergency phone & sign), you still have a decent amount of descent to go. I'd say the hardest part of our trips was getting to the bottom. My friends calves really burnt out by the time we reached the Tonto. This made the second half go a fair amount slower and still in lots of sun. The views on this trail are awe-some.

BRIGHT ANGEL Campground can be quite surprising. On my first trip in September I likened it to car camping without the car. Flush toilets, picnic tables, cement stone for cooking, site numbers, clean tap water & and the craziness of phantom ranch as well (mule riders & cabins & electricity & hot meals & snack food & postcards mailed by mule)..It was not what I had imagined to see prior to my trek down. We changed sites at bright angel because our neighbor had assembled an ipod and speakers to give you an idea. You can even get a serious steak dinner down at the bottom if you plan way ahead; though it will cost you $$$. Fresh cold beer at the Canteen after a long meandering hike in the sun can be a nice treat though. The amphitheatre Ranger talk & scorpion hunt were a highlight for me. Bring your own black light and you too can seek scorpions at night. I saw a lot more junk food critters in September(ringtails, deer, fox, skunk, squirrels, mice & people) than I did in May(croaking frogs & lizardzz & huge black bees abounded). May 2011 was still in spring run off so bright angel creek next to the campground was swollen and the "flush" toilets where flush with buckets. If your just doing corridor trails they have ex-Kuwait ammo cans at all the sites to store your food & plastics in and away from the critters. They likely all have fresh water too but do double check these things before you head down.

COTTONWOOD campground is probably my favorite in the corridor. Much quieter. Site #2 has great views but a long walk to the toilets. With so many things to do there (Roaring Springs, North Rim summit, Ribbon Falls) I think it's a great place to spend 2 nights if you have the time. There is a little hill that can surprise you in full sun after hiking a fairly flat incline up from bright angel (in-between the 1st & 2nd trail junction signs for Ribbon Falls on the North Kaibab).

After the silver bridge heading towards INDIAN GARDENS, the trial becomes beautiful beach sand alongside the river for a portion. It surprised me after the red dusty dirt of the South Kaibab.. Bright Angel Trail is great.. with shade & creeks & water running round it & rest houses & toilets. The trek up Bright Angel Trail via the fault line is a completely different experience than South Kaibab. Indian Garden is considered to be an oasis.. There is even swamp grass to go along with the multitudes of cacti. And there are books at the office to go with the roofed picnic table shelters (perfect for sunshade and rain). Plateau point is great for a sunset dinner, just make sure you leave enough time to get there before the sun sets. Don't forget a bright enough headlamp that can light your way on your return. The crickets where almost deafening in my September visit under an almost full moon. It's amazingly stunning sound in a good or bad way depending on your take.

Please note that if you exit out Bright Angel trail you will be re-entering society at the most populated touristy area of the Grand Canyon.. It can be a bit of a culture shock.

Mid-May and Oct are usually times when the portion of park on the North Rim opens & closes. Both times we experienced many day hikers/runners doing complete Rim to Rims or Rim to Rim to Rims. Opening/closing season are peak times for these runners… even more so than mule trains. If you went at this time you will see more than a few people biting off more than they can chew along with some incredibly inspiring athletes.

In May 2011 there was quiet a lot of sudden wind… serious gusts of dust. So if you leave on a day hike (clear creek trail any part of it is rewarding) be sure to batten down the hatches. A lot of tents went flying at bright angel.. We also had a serious downpour with wind that made me happy with my tarptent. I still like the security blanket of mesh for the creepy crawlies… maybe one day I hope a tarp or bivy will do. The ground is pretty hard at all the corridor sites and the regular length stakes didn't always do the trick. There are usually rocks around to help aid in set up. I did free standing with rocks as anchors and the occasional longer stake. Spring was really in full bloom in May!! Flowers galore bringing even more colour to the Canyon.

I found the "Official Grand Canyon Trail Guide Series" little portable booklets on each of the corridor trails to be nuggets of joy/info along the trail. They can be ordered on-line http://www.grandcanyon.org or amazon. I prefer the hard copies to study up on and riffle through. You also can't go wrong with the official descriptions of each trail found on the parks site in the backcountry trail section. The best source for accurate distances and elevations. There is soooo much info on the parks site, I am still finding new stuff I wish I had seen before. I cannot say enough good things about the backcountry office.. They are so nice and helpful. If you have any questions call them, they will make you happy and well informed.

Lastly: It's still cold at the top overnight on the Rim when it's warmer-er at the bottom due to the temperature inversion. Camping at Mather in 40-45F was not so pretty or exciting when your thinking of 65-100F temps at the bottom. On our 2nd trip we ponied up and got a nights stay at Yavapai lodge west prior to our hike. It exceeded our expectations in being clean, well kept and looking newish renos. It was great for our last minute preparations, right by the shuttle & nice to at least start the trail clean.

I am not a fast hiker or a lightweight hiker, but I hope to be more of something someday.
Nugget

ps. don't forget to pack water but also drink it…

I went on a short hike there December '09. Quite a snowstorm, definitely should have brought some type of snow spikes/crampons (they were all sold out in the stores in the park).

If you don't get a permit online, just try for a walkup-permit.
Ok, you sometimes have to get up early to be in the front part of the line but I usually am successful with that method, even in Yosemite's peak season.