Dec 22, 2010 at 11:21 pm #1266864
I'm looking at my Shangri La 3 and want to add a few webbing loops for guylines along existing seams. If I add two loops it can be used as a duomid-style shelter for a smaller footprint. I don't mind the weight when solo, but the footprint is just bigger than what I need alone and makes site selection harder.
Here's an old thread I started on this.
In the photo it's staked at only 4 corners. I'd like to add a stake loop in the middle of the longer sides where they touch the floor, giving it 6 staking points when in this configuration.
I might also like to add a few loops for guying-out at higher points.
All the seams that I'd like to add loops to are felled.
Any tips or is it as simple as ripping about 1" of seam where I want it, inserting webbing, sewing it back shut, and seam sealing?
Thanks.Dec 27, 2010 at 9:34 am #1677918
I missed the previous thread. Owning a Hex and the newer SL 3, this is super-fascinating. One of the favorable factors with this tent is the minimal condensation experienced with it in normal pitch. How does this duo-mid pitch fare as shown in your illustrative photos?Dec 27, 2010 at 9:47 am #1677923
There's less ventilation in the mid pitch, but I don't think it's an issue because of the space inside…for one person (or my son and I), I never come in contact with the walls in either configuration. I cant see how it would be any different than an MLD pitched tight to the ground.
I haven't got around to sewing the stake loops on yet…I was supposed to be on a trip with this shelter yesterday and today, but caught a good cold on Saturday and had to postpone. I should have time to rip the seams and add loops today. I'll post it when it's done.
In duomid mode the dimensions are almost identical to the MLD (the SL3 is slightly smaller by about 6" on bothe sides in this mode so the walls should be slightly steeper). Providing the stake loops/guy outs can be added in a secure way, the steeper walls should shed snow better than in the hex setup.Dec 27, 2010 at 10:09 am #1677928
"Any tips or is it as simple as ripping about 1" of seam where I want it, inserting webbing, sewing it back shut, and seam sealing?"
I wouldn't bother to rip the seam. Just cut, melt, and sew the loops where you want them, letting the full seam provide the anchor for the loop.
IMHO.Dec 27, 2010 at 10:11 am #1677931
Yeah, that's probably easier Greg.
Think it's worth sewing a reinforcement patch on?Dec 27, 2010 at 10:18 am #1677933
If this loop is going to be at the bottom edge, I'd sandwich the seam with the grosgrain. And if not, I wouldn't bother to back it up. There are 3 layers of fabric sitting there. If anything, I'd make the attachment a bit longer to spread out the forces.Dec 27, 2010 at 12:48 pm #1677978
If I were permanently turning it into a mid, that's the way I'd do it Greg. But as I still want to be able to use it as a hex, the stake loop is technically getting sewn on about 2 feet from the factory edge. The excess material gets rolled up when it's in mid-mode, bringing the stake loop down to the ground.
If you look at the photos of it as a mid, you can see the excess panel rolled up inside…
So basically I'm adding a midpoint tie out like found on many tents, except it will be used at ground level for a stake when set up as a mid.
I'm now thinking I'll just sew on a 2"x 2" thin cordura reinforcement patch with a loop of 1" webbing sewn onto it (and through the fly) with an x-box.
(I hope I'm making sense here.)Dec 27, 2010 at 1:11 pm #1677987
IMHO you have passed all sanity checks ;-)
Brain seems to be fully engaged.
Parts and pieces are before you.
Prototyping at its best.
Sew, man, sew.Dec 27, 2010 at 1:56 pm #1677996
Sometimes all we need is a little hand holding :)Dec 27, 2010 at 6:42 pm #1678108
Finished, just need to finish seam sealing inside and out. Now it can pitch as a hex or mid.
Outside, .75" webbing on a 2" x 2" square of Cordura:
Inside (stitching view, xbox inside of square):
The loops were sewn on 19.5" from the factory loops on two sides:
They were sewn on here (at green arrow to provide mid-panel stakeouts at ground level. The excess fabric is rolled up inside):
I can post pics of it setup later if anyone is interested. Setup is much faster in this configuration, with fewer angles to get right. Stake the front corners, stake the rear corners, stake the midpoints on the side panels. Less fussing with geometry compared to the hex.
I still might sew on some guy loops on the upper body, not sure if I want them yet.Dec 28, 2010 at 5:25 am #1678224
David GoodyearBPL Member
Great job! looks plenty strong. Thanks for posting the measurements, as I would llike to mod my SL-3 in this fasion.
I like the idea of having a smaller, easier pitch option. Sometimes it is hard to find enough real estate for a good pitch. How do you attach your trekking poles to replace the center pole? I would love to leave it home to save weight.
DaveDec 28, 2010 at 8:49 am #1678280
I connect my trekking poles like this:
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=17864&skip_to_post=137016Dec 28, 2010 at 10:24 am #1678310
Wow, that is really neat, especially since I'm considering this tent. I'd like to see more pictures of the set up.Mar 28, 2011 at 11:20 pm #1716444
I used my sl3 on a 1500+ mile january cycling trip down the eastern divide. Great times. Great tent.
Love it, except for the complex setup (compared to my wing tarp). Was planning to pack it away for the summer in favore of my wing tarp, but now you've got me thinking.
The thing is in its modded format it's lighter and packs up smaller then my DIY wing tarp.
Since I first got it I've been trying to think of more creative ways to pitch it. These include pitching it like a tarp and developing "quick pitch" ideas.
Your post has opened the flood gate on ideas.
== regarding other mods ==
1) I have removed all the plastic clips on the inside for the optional bug net insert, thus cutting a couple ounces. To be honest I don't know why these plastic hooks aren't included on the bug net anyway. Why carry them around all winter if you're not carrying around the bug net?
2) I also removed the three inserts that keep the vents open around the top. This dropped several ounces as well. Am still looking for good ways to keep these vents open without the inserts.
3) I cut a couple more ounces by removing all the plastic clips and web belts from the corners. Will use paracord in the future as necessary. Just like with a tarp.
4) My SL3 is now down to about 1 lb 5oz. + stakes and some paracord. I don't carry the pole. Have never had a problem finding a stick to serve the purpose and have been trying to come up with alternatives by pitching a line off my bike. (See more on this below.)
== other ideas ==
1) pitching the SL3 like a wing tarp with a single ridge line / guy line off a tree running connecting to the apex, one mid side mount and one corner. The wings would then be staked out. Perhaps with some paracord. We shall see what happens.
2) using it with a single person sea-to-summit asymetrical or symetrical bug net for summer use. Will probably figure out a way to clip it to the existing bug net inserts on the SL3… may also try the SL3 insert and mod it as well.
3) possibly sewing a bit of bug net… or a bit of velcro around the base of the tent and then figuring out a way to fix it around the door. (this is an old idea I'm moving away from it since it requires permanently altering the tent)
4) by next winter I hope to have a DIY chimney wood stove based on some of the superb designs posted on this forum. To make this work with the tent I'm hoping to put a removeable insert in the top of the door frame… though I might make it fit in where one of the 3 vents are around the top.
5) More tarp and "quick pitch" ideas.
If anyone has any more mod ideas please do tell.
This will be an ongoing experiment over most of the summer.
== bug bivy ==
Oh… btw, I've sewn a bit of ground cloth to the bottom of one of my a-symetrical sea-to-summit bug nets so I can use it as a bug bivy with my tarp (and now my SL3). Works excellently. I hope to refine it this summer. Perhaps a tyvek bottom. Perhaps even simply a full mesh bottom like the Zpacks Hexamid.Mar 29, 2011 at 5:31 am #1716483
David GoodyearBPL Member
Good ideas for more mods.
Since I mainly use this shelter for winter and non-bug seasons, I cut out the screens in the vents (they froze up anyway) and replace the heavy straps with paracord. I have a loop for a fast pitch with sticks shoved into the snow and a paracord tightner from quest for the times when I can use stakes.
I'm looking forward to trying more mods. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
DaveMar 30, 2011 at 5:45 am #1717071
Brian HallBPL Member
Saw your post about the duomid sl-3 and had to go home and try it out! Mine is a 2010 model with the three vents. It also looks like the 2010 version has more tieouts, but not positive on that. Anyways, thanks for the idea!Mar 30, 2011 at 6:59 am #1717091
Very nice non-hex pitch ideas here!
When I had a SL3, I connected my trekking poles using an extra lower trekking pole section, which I sawed off to about 8 in and 0.7 oz. It was very easy, especially with flick locks on the poles.Mar 30, 2011 at 7:51 am #1717127
John VanceBPL Member
@servingkoLocale: Intermountain West
Now I want another custom inner made for this mode. Very cool, and just may buy another SL3 and modify it for full time use this way.Mar 22, 2012 at 12:54 pm #1857774
@miles2goLocale: White River National Forest
I'm bringing this back to the top because I'll certainly be trying what's shown in the last set of photos, this spring. John, if you're still tuned in, did you ever field test this with the 2010 SL3?
It will work great for when it's just me or just me & the dog.
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