What do you think of Dane at coldthistle.com?
“I switched a few years ago to all Schoeller style clothing. But unbelieving in just how far I really needed to go I bought all the gear in an insulated form.
To be specific Arteryx Gamma MX hoody and pants. I have worn out a set of both over time. And I still love both of them for climbing. But for everything but the very coldest weather (below -20C) I find that material (Polartec Power Shield in the Gamma MX line) to be too much now.
Why too much? Too heavy physically, too warm and not breathable enough.
OK, you ask, "WTF, Dane?" "That is a $400 piece of kit (Gamma MX Hoody) you encouraged me to buy last year and now you are telling me it is rubbish?…too warm?…too heavy?"
I am using a R1 Hoody inner layer. MEC makes R1 tops and bottoms for something like $60 retail. Or you can buy Patagonia's for $150. Same exact material and in several ways the MEC clothing is better designed imo. Now there is an easy decision?!
Yep, just the R1 and nothing between it and my skin.
– Going warm to colder temps are:
Eddie Bauer Front Point jacket…
– a combo hard shell and soft shell.
– Very water resistant (my top was dry in a soaking waterfall that went straight through my pants and filled my boots to the brim)
– and very breathable. I am highly impressed with the details of this garment and the combo of materials used. A surprising and almost immediate favorite for cold technical climbing.
-OR-
Arcteryx Atom Lt Hoody….
– lightly insulated shell
– with stretch vented sides and under the arms.

