Oct 25, 2010 at 11:54 am #1264778
Looking for suggestions for a general use lightweight harness to accomplish two purposes:
1) Glacier travel / mountaineering
2) Traditional indoor/outdoor rock climbing (no lead climbing, just your usual half day top roped climbing…)
I'd like to have adjustable leg loops to accommodate varying clothing layers on my legs. EDIT: would also like a drop seat… (Good suggestion Eric, see below)
Of course CAMP, Mammut, and Black Diamond make glacier harnesses that are super light but I'm some what concerned these may be quite uncomfortable without any padding… Was hoping for slight padding, adjustable leg loops, and under 12 ounces.
What do you use?
Arc'teryx X350a (12.2oz, but geez its expensive)
Black Diamond Momentum SA (weighs in at 14 though…)Oct 25, 2010 at 12:27 pm #1657857
dead bird 350a
for something around 12 oz with fully separating gear looks, ice clips, comfortable to hang in, good for sport/trad/ice/alpine … etc …
pros … super light for a full trad/ice harness, comfy, cool dead bird gear will get you the chicks, fully adjustable and separating leg loops
cons … price, haul loop is cr@p, drop seat wears out if yr gonna chimney
im still waiting for someone else to make something with all the features at the same weight …
if you dont care about weight get this or one of the other hanesses for 20-30$ … how much is an ounce worth? … lolOct 25, 2010 at 12:41 pm #1657859
oh and the camp harness you listed dont appear to have a drop seat …
highly recommend one for those times on the glacier mountain when you cant untie … but feel those burritos … lolOct 25, 2010 at 12:46 pm #1657862
Oh, good point on the drop seat… those camp harness on sale would have been sweet. At the price I would have pulled the trigger but they are out of stock.Oct 25, 2010 at 12:59 pm #1657868
my bad …
then i recommend the BD momentum SA at 14oz …
i have one and used it till i got the dead bird … it totally bomber, has 4 gear loops, full seperating, very padded, at 14oz only weights 2 more oz than the 350a, and most importantly has quick release drop seats for those calls of nature … lol
best of all it costs only 45$
it doesnt have ice clippers … but you can get the attach on ones anyways
you wont wear this harness outOct 25, 2010 at 2:34 pm #1657896
Dan DurstonBPL Member
Eric…what would you recommend for a really light harness just for glacier travel? Light and cheap are what I'm looking for since I'd likely only use it a couple times.Oct 25, 2010 at 2:50 pm #1657898
dan … depends if you want the drop seat, adjustable leg loops and self adjusting belt
in other words do you want to be able to take a dump, put on yr harness without taking off your cramps/skis, and never worry about having to double back yr harness (or die)
for all those features the BD one i posted is the one to bear … yo could save maybe 2-3 oz and go to something like the arcteryx but spend 100-200% more
if you dont need to do any of the above … get this … 4 oz or so …. you can find it around $30 on campsaver or STP usually, though with import duties im not sure if its worth it
if you want to borrow my old BD harness for a weekend let me know … or you could just get it from mec and return it ;)Oct 25, 2010 at 4:24 pm #1657924
. .BPL Member
@biointegraLocale: Puget Sound
For Glacier travel, have a look at the Edelrid Loopo Light:
+1 on the 350a if you expect to hang on it at all and for all-around use and comfort.Oct 25, 2010 at 9:16 pm #1658033
Eric – Thanks for your suggestions. I found a BD Momentum SA for $40. At that price, I can always pick up a separate glacier harness for glacier travel if I need to reduce climbing gear weight.Oct 25, 2010 at 10:46 pm #1658043
Dan DurstonBPL Member
Thanks guys….I'll keep these in mind and I'll pick one up once I've definitely got a glacier travel trip planned.Oct 25, 2010 at 11:02 pm #1658048
@water-2Locale: pacific nw
an improvement on the alpine bod, imho. I have the BD momentum of some variety and while yes it does serve double-duty just dandy for glacier/alpine and rock/gym climbing…compared to the Alpine Bod, and especially compared to the couloir harness, it is just plain bulky.. compare a nalagene to a small apple.. plus at 8oz it cuts the weight nearly in half, and it doesn't break the bank like the 350a–and is quite comfortable under a pack, and has the drop seat, adjustable, etc. Again, specially for glacier travel, without having a piece of un-adjustable floss like some of the CAMP and elerid things..
Also I had a friend who climbed in his alpine bod plenty, though that isn't most people's cup of tea, but it did him fine for climbing for 4-6 hours at a time.Oct 26, 2010 at 7:17 am #1658102
@dirtbagclimberLocale: Pacific Northwest
I have messed with a lot of the light harnesses on the market, and here are some thoughts.
The CAMP ALP 95 is a rather specialized harness for alpine trips where weight is critical and you aren't planning to do anything very technical. It is my go-to glacier travel harness, but I would never take it sport climbing or anything like that. I'd be afraid of wearing it out prematurely and it doesn't really have gear loops and it's not that great to hang in.
I use a CAMP Air CR for most everything else these days. Around 8.5 oz, belay loop, four gear loops, haul loop, pretty good to hang in. I honestly think it's the better choice than Arcter'x offerings for serious Alpine climbing. It is missing a drop seat, so far that hasn't been a problem.
The new Black Diamons Coulor harness looks like a major improvement on the old Alpine Bod (which I used for years). Honestly I'd say it's probably the best choice for your described usage. It's fairly cheap and simple and ideal for glacier mountaineering. It won't be that comfortable to hang in for very long and it doesn't have enough racking space for serious trad climbing, but neither of those is much of an issue for you.Oct 28, 2010 at 2:24 pm #1659017
Sieto van der HeideMember
@sietoLocale: The Netherlands
+1 on the Camp AIR CR
I've got one in size L. It's 290gr, so just over 10oz.
Used it for indoor/toprope climbing and glacier travel, works great for both.
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