Aug 13, 2006 at 11:34 am #1219306
I am considering adding a 12” skirt of no-see-um bug net around the base perimeter of my GoLite Hex 3. I have the floorless model. My plan is to simply sew this to the bottom hem, which is about 30 feet of sewing.
I have a Tyvek floor which I cut to be about 6” inside the tent wall, all around. I am hoping to simply tuck the netting in under the Tyvek floor once the tent is set up. This should add about 2.3 oz. to the total weight of the tent which is just over 2 pounds with the Tyvek floor.
The plan sounds almost too simple to me and I’ve never read where anyone else did this so, now I’m worried that I may have missed a potential problem. If any of you more experienced than I (which means all of you), see a problem, please yell before I fall off a cliff here.
While this should bug-proof the tent, I’m thinking that this would deter some of the creapy-crawly category also. At least, I can reassure my wife with that line. She loves full tents and I love to backpack with her, so, the Hex 3 works well for us, plus, it’s a great winter tent. I think the size and protection provided for the weight is about as good as it gets. Although, there are many lighter and simpler shelters for undemanding conditions.Aug 13, 2006 at 1:13 pm #1361059
Rick DreherBPL Member
@halfturboLocale: Northernish California
I think so long as you’re prepared to place items around the perimeter to hold the Tyvek beneath the netting, your scheme should work, although it seems possible you’ll need a larger piece of Tyvek to get enough overlap.
I wonder, before thirty feet of sewing, whether you could test the system by clipping the netting to the Hex (w/ binder clips, or…)?
I like the Hex. Mine’s the earlier, smaller Hex 2 and in buggy times I use a bug bivy, but your solution would be lighter.
Happy experimenting!Aug 13, 2006 at 2:10 pm #1361061
Rick, you are right! 30 feet is a lot of sewing and that’s why I wanted a second opinion. I’ll cut a few pieces, each of a different length, and try then for size with the binder clips before committing to the length for the whole project! Thanks again!Aug 13, 2006 at 2:19 pm #1361063
Matthew LaPatkaBPL Member
@gungadinLocale: Pittsburgh, PA
I had Nanoseeum mesh sewed around the perimeter of my Hex and used Gossamer Gear’s polycryo for the floor. It worked great in Maine’s worst black fly and mosquito time of the year. The nanoseeum is extremely light and does the job. Find it atAug 13, 2006 at 4:13 pm #1361069
Glad to hear you’ve tried this successfully! I use it in the White Mountains in N.H. as well as the Blue Ridge and Florida! It probably won’t stop gators thought ;-)
I bought my no-see-um from thru-hiker for a hammock netting and have some left over.Aug 14, 2006 at 1:30 pm #1361116
I have owned my Hex 2 for many years, and I did a similar thing. I sewed an 18″ noseeum skirt around the bottom. Then I made longer nylon stake out loops. With a longer pole (I hike with a bamboo hiking staff), I can now raise the entire tent up in the air, with the skirt hanging down to the ground and under my tyvek ground sheet. This eliminates all ventilation problems, and as a bonus, allows 360 degree visibility when laying down.Aug 15, 2006 at 9:42 am #1361147
Thanks for all the help and encouragment! I’m off to the sewing machine!Aug 28, 2006 at 5:21 am #1361817
Jonathan RyanBPL Member
@jkrew81Locale: White Mtns
I have a black diamond megalite I am also experimenting with. I have started and found that using small tags of industrial strength velcro has worked pretty well also. This way I can take it off in the winter.May 27, 2008 at 9:13 am #1435119
@simontewLocale: Snowdonia/Lake District/Peaks
I've got the Golite Shangri La 3 (new version of the Hex 3) and was also thinking about a mesh perimeter. Instead of sewing the mesh to the flysheet, I was thinking that it would be possible to make a separate hex or O-shaped ring of mesh to drop over the outside of the tent, the internal dimensions being slightly smaller than the outside dimensions of the tent, so that there was effectively a 'seal' between the two fabrics when both were under tension. The lower edge of the ring would then be clipped to the existing staking points. This would give you something that was resistant to flying bugs, albeit not to crawlies. Some strips of velcro would provide for adjustment – i.e. the thing wouldn't actually have to be made as a ring or hex, just attached in that shape.
Comments? I'm in the UK – mosquitoes and midges are the issue – crawling bugs tend not to be biters here. Unless you pitch on an ant nest :o)
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