With synthetics, i hate that cold feeling you get across your back when you stop"
Yeah but that cold feeling is the synthetic shirt drying way faster. If you want to avoid this feeling, then you're using a sorta cold, damp wool shirt for significantly longer. It's a trade off but I find the synthetic much easier to live with in extended damp/rainy conditions. Wool may feel nicer in nice or medium conditions, but in extended poor conditions I find synthetic really takes the win and that's what I like to be prepared for.
Regarding the 'stink', I've never noticed significant stink from any of my baselayers…synthetic or otherwise. Maybe its just me (or my nose sucks?). I agree that wool feels slightly nicer on the skin, but to me this is a pretty minor consideration compared to weight and moisture management.
"IMHO, the best article ever published on BPL was on this topic.
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/comfort_moisture_transport_wool_synthetic_clothing.html
This is a great article for sure, but it doesn't consider extremely light synthetic layers you can get. The synthetic fabrics tested weighed 111-133g/m2, whereas you can get synthetic shirts weighing nearly half that (60-80g/m2). Wool was 40-60% slower drying that the synthetic shirts tested, and these really light synthetic layers are way faster still. You can get wool shirts a bit lighter than the ones tested, but not radically so.
For me, staying dry (or getting dry) out there is really important. With wool once I get it wet, I find it very difficult to get dry if the conditions are humid and rainy. In nice conditions it works well, but when it's sloppy out I get tired of being damp for several days.
My strategy is to use the lightest, thinnest, fastest drying synthetic baselayer. If I need insulation I'll layer my wind shirt and/or insulating clothing over top. Even in the winter I use the thinnest stuff. I can ski tour up a slope and get totally sweaty and then at the top I can stand in the breeze on the ridge in my shirt (and get really chilly) for about 3 minutes and then my shirt is dry and I get layer up and hang out in total comfort. In wool I'm damp all day.
…just my opinions. It depends in the conditions you're hiking in but I like to always be prepared for the worst.