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Climbing Rack
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May 17, 2010 at 1:18 pm #1259046
My rack is going on an UL Diet!
19 Biners = just inside 1LB.
Just Sharing. That is all!B^{)
May 17, 2010 at 1:32 pm #1610655Nice!
Am I seeing the old style BD Hotwires and Camp Nano's? What are you going to use for slings- Mammut Contact?May 17, 2010 at 8:45 pm #1610794I find the small biners hard to clip, but if your rack is large the weight savings are huge. If you have to carry it into the BC then light is right.
May 17, 2010 at 11:18 pm #1610820I found the small 'biners hard to clip, too, especially when you are pumped. I switched mine up a little. I now use the Metolius FS 'biner on the bolt/gear side (same weight as a Camp 23 but more friendly rope-bearing surface). On the other end of the draw I use a DMM Phantom 'biner. The Phantom is still a super light 'biner but it is MUCH easier to clip the rope when you are desperate. I think my next weight reduction item will be my rope. I think the Sterling Nano (9.2 mm. in the 70 m. size) looks nice.
May 18, 2010 at 1:25 pm #1610944The Phantoms are great biners as are the WC heliums. I like the Nano 23s for certain things but they're small. The FS mini's are not to my liking, much too small. I've been using the BD 10mm dyneema slings as they seem to hold up better than the Mammuts for me.
The Sterling Nano rope is soooo nice. One of my partners has a 60m one and I love climbing ice with it. They're certainly not a top rope or abused rope but for ice, alpine and hard climbs it's fantastic.
May 19, 2010 at 8:33 pm #1611531I really like Metolius Slings but those Mammuts may make an appearance.
Yeah, a sizeable trad rack plus remote climbing spots has got me psyched!
Yeah Nanos (the rope) are nice but those Metolius biners seem too small even if you are quite dexterous.
The hotwires will be headed to my sport gear so i can recruit my BD OZ biners to compliment the Nanos.
May 20, 2010 at 3:16 am #1611591i work at MD in Melb….we have a prodeal coming up, and all the climbing staff are cutting sick.
LOL…BD, Mammut and Petzl biners and climbing gear….30% off Wholesale for them…they are loving it!Im tempted to buy a rack, and take up climbing!
haha, I'm so tempted….May 20, 2010 at 11:06 pm #1612045Siggy- take up climbing, THEN buy a rack… a good deal of gear choice is simply subjective preference.
Anyway, I have a cold and can’t climb so (in the spirit of this thread) I decided to weigh some biners and slings (used two Pelouze digital scales, weighed each item 3 times).
Old BD Hotwire: 44gramsm
New BD Hotwire: 38grams
BD Neutrino: 36grams
WC helium: 34 grams
BD Oz: 30 grams
Trango Superfly: 28-30grams
Old Camp Nano: 28-30gramsBD 10mm Dynex and Mammut 8mm Contact slings: 18 grams
Wild Country 15cm dogbone: 8 gramsOf the carabiners, I find the Camp to be unusable, the Heliums to be ideal for almost everything, but the Superfly and Oz biners to be ultra light while still being easy to handle and clip.
So, you can have eight alpine draws with Contact slings and Oz biners coupled with four sport draws with WC dogbones and Oz biners for a total of 896 grams (just under 2 pounds). Lightweight and still user friendly.
Oh, I’ve been using the 9.1 Beal Joker for a few years- very light, decent durability, but with a lot of rope out you can really go for a ride due to its extreme stretch. Not great for cragging, but wonderfull for extended trips.
May 21, 2010 at 4:41 am #1612089yeah Michael, i know what u mean.
I am starting to take up climbing, just buying a pair of shoes first (any recommendations welcome! i have wide feet).
All im saying….is its so mighty tempty to buy all that gear….cos of the scha-weeet as deals!
I was tempted to get a BD iceaxe…for $30 just to hang on the wall above my bed (old display model).
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