What I'm in need of is a small pressure release valve just before my Platy. hose enters the bottom reservoir in order to bleed air out of the system.
As it is, the Platy hose pressure fits onto a male piece (the filter).
Thank you
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What I'm in need of is a small pressure release valve just before my Platy. hose enters the bottom reservoir in order to bleed air out of the system.
As it is, the Platy hose pressure fits onto a male piece (the filter).
Thank you
If you squeeze all of the air out of the bottom Play before you hook it up and start filling it you should not need to bleed it. That's the beauty of collapsible soft side bottles.
Unless I'm totally misunderstanding what you're describing!
I thought that would do it also but it did not – the hose needs to be bled before reaching the filter.
Yes, squeeze the air out first. And screw the "cap" on very lightly — so air can continue to escape.
I've tried running the system "open" (without any lower reservoir connected) and the system still was backed up before reaching the filter. It would be great if I could connect a small valve just before the hose/filter junction to bleed out the air.
I don't normally use gravity feed although I have rigged one up for testing. Having done that and reading a myriad of feedback from others, I just haven't encountered anyone needing a valve to bleed out the air! How about posting a pic of your set up? What filter are you using? Sawyer?
Is your filter primed? I've got a MYOG setup that's sort of like the Amigo Pro, and if I don't gently force water through the filter on the first filtering, water takes FOREVER to get through it.
So if its backing up before getting to the filter, I'm guessing you have air in the tube above the filter. Just squeeze the bag above the filter to force the air through the filter.
Travis:
That's what I thought too — which was why I asked OP about his setup and his filter. The Sawyer purifier, for example, is notorious for requiring priming before use — or else only a very small trickle of water will flow. And the Sawyer priming requires the force of a kitchen faucet — this one, you can't just push water by rolling or squeezing the bag manually.
I use the Frontier Pro instead of Sawyer, and it seems to have the same issue where it needs to be primed slightly to start the flow. On mine, a simple squeeze or two on the top platypus gets it going.
On mine, the flow rate is about a minute per liter.
–B.G.–
Ben, ok, I've got no experience with the Sawyer, but priming sounds to be the answer.
Yes, priming seems to be the answer. And squeezing the bag to push water through will work with most all gravity or inline filters (that I know of) — the one glaring exception being the Sawyer purifier.
I've used a Sawyer 0.1 micron filter for two years. I don't think there's any need for a valve. I just give the dirty side bag a gentle squeeze to get the water flowing and it's fine after that.
Keith:
The Sawyer filter can be primed in the field by squeezing / pushing water through. It's the Sawyer purifier that requires faucet priming each time.
In any case, I only brought up the Sawyer purifier as an example. We'll see what OP's setup actually is.
Sawyer Pur. it is…
I thought I primed it correctly – maybe not. I do know that if I bleed air out of the hose I get 1L/~15min. Without doing so (my hose is a full length Platy) it takes HOURS.
"Sawyer Pur. it is."
I knew it!!!
Some filters, you only have to prime the first time you use them. But with the Sawyer Purifier, you MUST prime the thing with the full force of a faucet every time that it dries out when stored in-between trips!! Done properly, the thing is FAST. But if you fail to prime; then yes, the flow rate becomes just drop by painful drop.
And since the "air pockets" are inside the purifier, a valve will do absolutely nothing. It's why I sold the darn thing. YMMV, of course.
"a valve will do absolutely nothing"
While I appreciate the intelligent air of these threads, it's not been very helpful to me so far. Please re-read my previous posts to see how a valve would accomplish the excellent result I've achieved by bleeding air out of the line "manually" so far.
Checking Sawyer's claims on flow-rate, it seems I may not have primed the filter completely – however, I don't have any good faucets around at the moment and the flow rate is not so bad once I bleed the air out of the line.
So aside from all other issues, can anyone please point me towards a small 3-way adapter or something that will serve the function of a valve at the juncture of the hose and filter?
Thanks all
JA,
Since your looking for something not used in this crowd, you will have to do some sleuthing.
This is a barb T adaptor. If you stick a simple cap the third leg when not bleeding, it may work.

You can find more information Here. These also come in PVC and nylon. Your local (big) hardware store probably has drawers of these. Not knowing what you tubing ID is, the rest is up to you.
Search words were ‘tee’ ‘barb’ & ‘hose’.
Best of luck.
Dang Greg, I was just about to post that same thing. Beat me to it.
J A: When you get something built, do report back as to how it worked.
JA,
Also search for "diverter valve" "3 way".
They have a built in valve, but everything I've found is Big.
I still don't believe the air valve will solve anything, but if you want a smaller "T" valve — check your local aquarium shop.
EDIT: I re-read your posts up above. Given that 15 minutes per liter flow rate is good enough for you, then yes, give it a go.
Thanks guys. I've settled on a quick-latch adapter that will make removing the hose much easier (in order to let the air out of the system).
I prefer the camelbak one. It has a manual valve on the female end, rather than being automatically closed when disconnected like the platypus. This lets you get the water flowing and then plug in the end.
Even better
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