Seems there is a lot of talk from people who have lightened their Jetboil but not much how to. So here is what I did, the mistakes I made, and how you can improve upon it. Sorry, I did not take before or in process pics, hopefully you can compare to yours and see what I did. I got a wild hair and went at it.
Pics as it sits now.

Compare to Original

Pot

Base

Valve

First thing I did was remove the cozy and cut off the handle and spoon holder. After cutting the pot, I trimmed it to match. You could get away with more, but I have big hands and was being a little conservative.
Next I went at the pot. I drilled holes around the bottom using progressively bigger bits and ended up with somewhere about 11/64". I then cleaned up the holes with a file. DO NOT DO THIS! Drill your holes in the base, not the pot. The pot is aluminum and the base is galvanized steel. You’ll save more weight by drilling the base. I did not drill both because that seems to comprise the windshield and part of the focusing heat shield of the complete rig. So drilling both would most likely reduce its immunity to wind. Also, I did not cut anything from the base as I believe it to be part of a heat shield to protect the canister. These are my best guesses and maybe the stove gurus can chime in on this. If not, there is a boat load of weight to by cut in the base.
I used a dremel to trim down the pot and went about 1” above the 2 cup line. This brings about the 2nd issue, it boils over if you fill it to the 2 cup line. Its good at somewhere between 1.5 and 1.75 cups. Not really a problem for me since I just use it cook MH meals and you don’t ever need the full 2 cups. But I recommend doing some test boiling to see how far you can go.
The base is next and I started by disassembling it. There is a snap ring on the bottom of the metal base that goes around the gas feed tube. Pop that off with a screw driver. Then grab the burner and it unscrews from the valve. The valve will pull out the bottom and the burner out the top after tweaking the igniter to the side. The metal base is just pressure fit with the plastic stand at this point. Use a small screw driver and work around the edge to remove. You can now discard the plastic stand.
In mine, the valve is brass, others have a steel one. I trimmed off all the excess brass on the valve, most of which is used to hold it in the plastic base. The dremel cut it like butter and the file finished the job pretty easily. I think there is more that can be taken off the valve, but this is as far as I want to go before my trip. Also, there is plastic that can be trimmed from the knob.
When you reassemble the burner/valve/base, there will be play between the snap ring and the base. The plastic stand used to occupy some space there. I located a proper thickness and diameter washer, cut open one end, and wedged it between the existing snap ring and the base. Now its solid. Its also solid mounted to the fuel can with water in the pot. The plastic base was not doing anything but looking pretty.
My first try at a new pot lid is not very pretty. I used a Fosters can , but do not have a crimp tool to get that nice lip. I’m going to JB weld a little piece of neoprene on the lid for a handle and try to make it fit better. I will also be painting the raw aluminum with some exhaust paint to protect it.
It weighs in at 9 oz without the cup/bottom cover and about 10 oz with. I think 8 oz is achievable with drilling the base and more trimming on the valve and knob.
Now I’m not trying to convince anyone that the Jetboil is better, as good as, or even close to the better canister stoves. But I already had it, so it was 100% cheaper than buying new ones and probably still as marketable in its current form. Plus it was fun. Some like’em, some don’t.


