best batteries for iTP A3 Upgraded flashlight

bumpity

is rechargeable better than alkaline? Is lithum the best? will it hurt the led?

thanks!

Here are a few I would trust.

Sanyo Eneloop 800 mAH precharged
Duracell 1000 mAH or 800 mAH precharged
Rayovac 4.0 800 mAH precharged

The Duracell 1000 mAH AAA is one of the highest tested capacity AAA NiMH batteries according to candlepowerforums. The precharged batteries can be nice since they lose very little of their charge over time. Standard NiMH cells lose about 1% a day not being used. NiMH generally out preforms alkaline in this application. The Energizer lithiums are phenomenal yet they cost a lot and are not rechargeable.

and can't lithiums damage some leds/circuits because of the have slightly higher voltage?

Five years ago, I did a pretty exhaustive test to compare performance of 15 different Princeton Tec flashlights & headlights. I studied the run time of xenon, halogen, krypton, and LED bulbs, of Duracell alkalines, Energizer NiMH, and Energizer lithium batteries (and AAA's and AA's of each brand; the NiMH's were 850 mAh for the AAA's and 2100 mAh for the AA's). I tested the run times at 70*F, 32*F, and 0*F, and a lot of several steady temperatures between 15*F-30*F. Keep in mind that I was testing full-on performance–I turned the lights on and let them run until they died (which isn't how we usually employ our lights).

A quick abstract of the results follows. By the way the terms, output, performance, capacity, and run time all are essentially synonymous here:

Alkalines did fine down to 30*F. Below that, the performance dropped drastically. They were useless at 0*F.

NiMH did well down to 20*F, then the output was reduced in proportion to the temperature. Usable (somewhat) down to 0*F (but the run time was reduced by maybe 2/3).

Lithium cells were not at all affected by temperatures down to 0*F.

I blew just two bulbs while using lithium batteries–one krypton and one xenon. Xenons are are the most susceptible to overheating, and reputedly LED's are the least affected. Both blown bulbs happened during my living room 70*F tests (warmer conditions, no breeze to help cool the bulb). No bulbs were blown while using alkaline or NiMH cells.

The output (ie-brightness, in this case) for both alkalines and NiMHs fades a bit when they reach their half-life, whereas that of lithium remains steady until almost the very end.

The weight of NiMH is very slightly higher than alkalines, and the lithiums weigh about half as much.

A fully charged NiMH will lose 30% of its capacity in the first 24 hours, and then 1% per day after that (this is called self discharge), and the discharge will be more rapid when stored above 70*F. Alkaline cells will also self discharge, but at a very slow rate (0.4%/month). Store alkalines at 68*F. Lithiums hardly self discharge over a period of several years. Lithiums may be stored at any temperature from 0*F-140*F.

Lithium cells outperformed NiMH by 50% at all temperatures down to 20*F, and did much better than alkalines at all temperatures below 32*F (2X the capacity at 32*F, 5X at 0*F). It should be noted that alkalines will regain some of their capability if they are warmed back up to body temperature (maybe keep the light in your pocket when the temperatures get below 30*F?). I'm not certain that this works for NiMH, and for lithiums it's not an issue.

This is probably more info than you wanted. But what the heck, it's silly to do all this testing and not go out and tell somebody, right?

The fact to add is that lithium primary batteries weigh a lot less than alkalines, NiMH, or just about anything else you can find in a store. About the only problem is the price, which is significant.

The bottom line is that if you have some battery-powered device that is used a lot and you can recharge it a lot (such as a weekend backpacker who goes often and has a small flashlight), then NiMH is a good choice. If you can't recharge often, or maybe not at all (such as doing a long unsupported trip), then a lithium primary battery is good (if you can afford it). If your device cannot tolerate the slightly-high voltage of a lithium primary battery, then swap it out for a different device.
–B.G.–

fantastic post above!

so I just need to figure out if Lithiums will blown my "bulb" — I think it's and LED so unlikely.

After that it is a no brainer — lithium all the way.

Anyone know if brand makes a big difference w/ lithium batteries?

"The fact to add is that lithium primary batteries weigh a lot less than alkalines,…"

Please read my post again, Bob. I mentioned the weight differences. To elaborate: weights per 8 AAA cells: Alkaline and NiMH ~3.5 oz.; Lithium, 2.0 oz.

Henry, I'm quite sure that lithiums won't blow your LED bulbs. I use them in my LED lights, as well as in one xenon flashlight, and I have for years. No problem, ever.

What we need is for BPL to buy a huge crate of Energizer lithium cells, and sell them to the members for the wholesale price + shipping. And maybe even free shipping if we also order a 2010 calendar?

The specs on that tiny flashlight say that it will tolerate up to 3.0 volts DC. That is important.

A normal alkaline AA or AAA battery will have a voltage of 1.5-1.6 volts, typically around 1.55. Therefore, they are safe in your flashlight.

A normal rechargeable AA or AAA battery will have a voltage of 1.2-1.5 volts, so they are also safe, but the light might be a hair dimmer.

A lithium primary battery in AA or AA size has a voltage of 1.6-1.7 volts, so they are also safe for your light. Since the voltage is just a bit higher than some of the others, they can cause problems for some really picky devices.

There are not very many brands of lithium primary batteries.

They are called primary batteries to distinguish them from lithium rechargeable batteries that tend to have a much different voltage and a much different form factor.
–B.G.–

appreciate the advice —

Bob thanks for looking up the spec for me even — I was headed that way but am happy to coast along on your cyber-sweat.

I really like this tiny flashlight and figure I can be more than covered with it, an extra battery and photon back up, together way lighter than my current headlamp.

Hi Henry,

I have this exact light. It's totally awesome!

Lithiums are definitely a safe battery to use as I've been using them for awhile. As was mentioned, they are the lightest, highest capacity batteries. They will also not be cold affected and provide an extremely consistent brightness over the entire use of the battery. Also, a lithium will run this light at full brightness for about 3 times longer than an alkaline. 10 year shelf life too! Worth the extra expense imho!

Rechargeable NIMH batteries would be a less expensive alternative if you plan on extremely heavy, frequent use.

The clip on this light seems like it makes the beam point towards you when it is clipped to a hat front brim?

"The clip on this light seems like it makes the beam point towards you when it is clipped to a hat front brim?"

Try the maratac. It is basically the same light but the clip is reversable. This allows you to clip it to the brim of your hat.

Henry,

Are lithium batteries OK? Why not just call up the company and ask? Something this specific, it just seems easier hearing it direct from an official source.

John, the clip is removable and reversible. Once mounted reverse, my clip was stretched out a little much to mount back, but a lil crimping action would probably work fine.

The manufacturer has in the past listed the A3 as lithium friendly. I have run through a number of Lithium batteries in my A3… though I normally use Sanyo Eneloop 800 mAH because that is my standard AAA rechargeable.

The click can be reversed and clicked to a hat brim… but I haven't been 100% happy with this because the click is a bit to narrow for the reverse mounting and the end extends beyond the back of the light. My solution is to attach the light to my eyeglass temple with a piece of velco.

–mark