Bushbuddy -vs- Ti-Tri Inferno

Dan Durston wrote: > The put is supposed to be 3″ off the ground when using the alcohol burner. I believe the stove is about 1.5″ tall and then the optimum gap is 1.5″. If you don’t use the stakes, you cut that 1.5″ gap between the burner and the pot down in half to 0.75″. I imagine at the least, it’s slowing your boils down but some testing will answer this. At worst, it’s hurting your boil times, fuel efficiency and emissions (monoxide et al).

Dan,

With an Evernew 1.3L pot, I’m not seeing any negative effects on boil time. I ran a side-by-side test with my Classic cone with 25ml HEET, and the boils occurred within seconds of each other. The boils also lasted for the same length of time, ending within seconds of each other.

Now, that’s with an Evernew 1.3L pot. The width of the pot and cone is going to have an impact on heating efficiency. Things will probably be different with a smaller pot.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

"Is a 600 pan going to be large enough for 2 cup brews and meals when considering stirring and the times when the cone is not sitting level?"

I use a tri-ti and the 600ml pot – in answer to your question in one interpretation; I doubt it. I tend towards freeze-dried rehydration and that is about 450ml (usually for me)….if two cups of coffee can be got out of the 150mls left then they'd be pretty small cups….

But I suspect (?) you are talking about doing the two separately? Then yes; easily.

I should have said " I need the pan for a 2-cup brew OR a meal ". Having just gone and measured what I do, 1 brew vol = 1 meal vol, and this is nearer 3/4 pint = 425 ml, so that would make the EV600 a little more viable.

So here's an idea – I'm sure its all been discussed all already but I'm still reading & learning.

Put aside the weight advantages of wood-burning for long trips for now.

GAS on a per-weight basis wins over Alcohol in ~5 days type trip, but the Cone has a good weight story of windshield+stand plus keeping heat near the pot.

So what about a GAS-powered-Cone? A little hole or notch in the base of the cone, a tube through, stove on the ground under the pot and your canister to the side with an adjuster. Think like a much lighter version the GAS conversion kit of the Trangia?

I guess would need more/larger holes at the base and near the top due to much more oxygen being required?

Nigel,

I’ve seen photos here on BPL of a WindPro used under a Caldera Cone. I think a remote canister stove like a WindPro is the way to go since the fuel and the valve will be outside the Cone making the stove a) safer and b) easy to adjust. The problem though is that the Windpro is hardly a lightweight stove.

I can see using the Cone and a WindPro for colder weather but not to save weight.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

Nigel Healy wrote: > So here’s an idea – I’m sure its all been discussed all already but I’m still reading & learning.

So what about a GAS-powered-Cone? A little hole or notch in the base of the cone, a tube through, stove on the ground under the pot and your canister to the side with an adjuster. Think like a much lighter version the GAS conversion kit of the Trangia?

That’s an idea whose time may be coming soon. Something like a WindPro II is too bulky and too tall for this use. Some of the newest crop of remote canister stoves are getting lighter and have a little lower profile.

Here’s a Kovea Spider which is still a bit too tall for this use but is headed in the right direction:

With a 1300ml Evernew Ti pot:

It sticks up a bit if you use it with a cone, but not bad.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving