Rock and snow climbing shoes – two pair?

I carry separate rock shoes if the trip involves a long approach and I will be leading 5th class rock (if I am following easy 5th, I can wear approach shoes and hang if needed). Think a hike into Cirque of the Towers to basecamp and climb several routes… or even a long day trip to solo the North Face of the Gothics in the Adirondacks (which I found almost impossible in trailrunners).

That said, a good pair of approach shoes does what trailrunners and rock shoes do seperately when the worst you will encounter is 3rd class. As for which pair- or which pair of rock shoes- that really comes down to fit and climbing performance vs. hiking performance. IMO, the more cushion etc that makes hiking easier (esp. a roomier toebox) the less sensitive the shoe will be on rock. The only way to know where you want to compromise is to know your feet and climbing ability. Or, use superlight trail shoes and rock shoes… for me, if I need rock shoes, I need to rope up. This means I need a rack, harness, partner, etc… and weight becomes secondary to safety.

I can't imagine doing a technical snow/ice climb in trailrunners- not stiff enough for prolonged frontpointing.

As for which rock show is best, I promote fit and price above all else (and for me "fit" means I can wear it all day and not feel as if my toes are being slowly amputated). Stay away from aggresively downturned shoes, at least for miles of rock (where are you encountering 5 miles of 3rd class anyway?)
If you are a new climber, a board lasted shoe will feel more secure for edging…

I am new to this forum, but I have a fair amount of experience with what you seek. Personally I only bring climbing shoes if the climbing is 5.4 or more and I want to go rope less or bouldering on the side is an objective. Sticky rubber like the five ten stuff is plenty good for basically all climbing I have found while on a hike. Approach shoes are a bit sketchy for snow, but gaiters and flexible aluminum crampons make this very doable as well. So… one pair of approach runners if they fit. YMMV

Thanks guys; very helpful!

"That said, a good pair of approach shoes does what trailrunners and rock shoes do seperately when the worst you will encounter is 3rd class"

That makes sense, and that's what my intuition said, but I don't have experience with them.

Several people I've talked to or whose comments I've read have suggested more or less the same thing: that if you want to do some non-technical rock climbing in combination with hiking, a good fitting pair of approach shoes can serve both purposes admirably, sparing having to wear one pair and bring another. I should have limited my question just to approach shoes; currently I have no need at all for pure rock shoes.

As for snow/ice, I didn't mean to imply climbing in those conditions with trail runners! That would be nuts! It's just that I've only been developing my UL backpacking for a little less than two years, and for the previous twenty plus years, wore full grain Asolo boots, on which I could comfortably use crampons on the infrequent occasions I needed them. So I was wondering what the more seasoned UL backpackers who won't hike in anything but lightweight runners do when they know they need mountaineering boots: suck it up and wear the boots all the way, or carry them in while walking in trainers?

Thanks again guys!

More input welcome please!

IF and when you develop the experience you will know what is right but since you indicated having little experience I hesitate to make any suggestions but for something along the lines of class 3 you dont need dedicated rock shoes.

Once you develop technique and gain experience you'll have footwork good enough to climb in dress shoes but till then stick with your TRs.

I do sometimes bring climbing shoes along if im scouting stuff out or bouldering along the way.

But if I'm climbing,

I'm climbing and as stated with a rack, rope, and partner.

It would be a waste to wear trail runners and carry along approach shoes.

thats a foul!

just wear TRs or Approach shoes (try a pair on…pretty comfotable for just about anything and highER performing than some trail runner) BUT TECHNIQUE CAN TAKE FILL THE GAP between runners and approach chues.

Ive climbed hundreds of feet of sketchy Class 4, one handed, in TRs, carrying a bicycle, wearing mittens, in the dark. (one of my lesser Ego-swelling combat tales)

Dont ask why

If you plan on getting into climbing just about all rock shoes provide adequate grippyness (but ask any climber and you'll get the preference they swear will make you climb like a pro!!)

but its truly about fit and what the shoe is designed for. and in that order.

an inexpensive pair of lace ups or velcor will be fine starter shoes. go with whatever is cheapest, fits best (fits snug like a great sock), and designed for general climbing. every and anything else is a detail.

THUNDA HOR$E

I bring them, but a lighter pair like the Trango S from La Sportiva. Trail runners are more comfortable on trail but prefer the Trangos when I get up into the alpine.

…Look at the La Sportiva Gandalf.

More good insights everyone; thanks!

Those Gandas look fantastic, but boy are they expensive.

FWIW, I've been researching some different approach shoes, and one surprise is the weight of the Five Ten Camp 4s. The two weight quotes I was able to find on those shoes were both about 1.8 pounds, which is really heavy, especially considering they're not boots. All the other competing shoes I've looked at (Montrails and La Sportivas mainly) have been more in the 14-18 ounce range. Huge difference.

The biggest problem, as always, is going to be finding shops that stock some or all, and actually trying them on.

I too was surprised by the weight and boot-like feel of the Camp 4s when I tried them on in the shop. I bought them anyway because they fit me well, and for the stuff I like to do in the summer – Alpine Grade I-II scrambling (dunno what that would be on the American scale – 4th or bottom end 5th class) – they turned out to be ideal. Absolutely confidence-inspiring on the rock, but wearable for long approaches.

Nevertheless, I've bought a pair of Inov-8s for next summer, to try something lighter for trips where rock isn't such a big part of the proceedings.

On the other hand, when I used to be a climber, I happily soloed up to 5.6 or so in running shoes. Those days are gone.

On the third hand – the Five Tens are solid enough that I'd have no qualms about using them withe kahtoolas on early/late season snow fields, although obviously not for anything resembling real winter climbing.

In the backcountry I sometimes carry my climbing shoes for
double duty use as stream crossing shoes. For this, slippers
are good as they tend to be light and compact.

When you talk 3rd class, are you talking Roper and Steck
3rd class, where if you slip, you break bones? Or are you
talking third class where you have to use your hands to
make progress, but are in little danger?