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Reapply DWR to shell of down jacket?

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PostedJan 5, 2010 at 5:52 am

I have a 2 year old Moutain Equipment Omega down jacket which is showing signs of the DWR failing with the shell wetting out instead of making water drops gather and roll off.

Is it possible to reapply the DWR? How would I go about doing it? Nikwax TX-direct spray or the like?

Richard Nisley BPL Member
PostedJan 5, 2010 at 7:26 am

Thomas,

First wash your jacket with a down soap to clean the shell fabric as well as the down. Most jackets are manufactured with a fluorocarbon based DWR.

Niwax has a DWR (wax-elastomer base) that is sprayed on and doesn't need to be heat set. It is more environmental friendly but it will only last about 1/2 as long a fluorocarbon-based based DWR at the same concentration.

Any fluorocarbon-based DWR can be sprayed on the jacket but then it as to be heat set in a dryer (140 F) for about 40 minutes to be fully activated.

The highest repellant concentration will last the longest for each of the types. You cannot add a wax or fluorocarbon if you previously used a silicone DWR. Manufactures don’t make down jackets with silicone DWR. A silicone DWR is generally used for leather that a membrane bonded to it. Sometimes people mistakenly use this on a jacket and then try to apply another type. Also don't use a wash-in version DWR with down.

PostedJan 5, 2010 at 7:51 am

Richard, how does one know what type of DWR one has? What categories do the common brands fit in? TX Direct? Revivex?

When would a wash in DWR be used?

Thanks for the helpful info.

Richard Nisley BPL Member
PostedJan 5, 2010 at 9:17 am

Jack,

Niwak is wax based. The others you mentioned are fluorocarbons. Silicone DWR will have silicone prominently displayed on the container. Wax is the least durable, then silicone, then fluorocarbons. Fluorcarbons have the added benefit of repelling both oils and water.

A wash in DWR is ideally suited for wind shirts and hard shells without fabric liners. A tricot liner (transparent to the naked eye) is OK to use wash-in DWR with.

The Patagonia Houdini is an Epic process and only needs to be washed and dried to replenish its DWR as is the case with other Epic process products.

Deluge (fluoropolymer base)
Granger's (fluoropolymer base)
ReviveX (fluoropolymer base)
Scotchguard (fluoropolymer base)
Tectron (fluoropolymer base)
Kiwi Camp Dry (silicone base)
Nikwax (patented wax-elastomer base)

PostedJan 5, 2010 at 5:29 pm

Richard,

Which type of DWR would be best for treating an ID Event jacket? I'm getting in the zone and will have to bite the bullet soon.

Tom

Richard Nisley BPL Member
PostedJan 5, 2010 at 5:43 pm

You can replenish your DWR many times before you have to put more on. Wash the jacket in a non-detergent soap, double rinse it, and then put it in a dryer (medium heat) for 45 min to 60 min. The heat reforms the spikes that keep the surface dry.

Fluorocarbon is the best option if you need to reapply it.

PostedJan 5, 2010 at 5:52 pm

"You can replenish your DWR many times before you have to put more on."

Many thanks for the swift reply, Richard. You just saved me an unnecessary purchase, among other things.

Tom

PostedJan 7, 2010 at 8:10 am

"then put it in a dryer (medium heat) for 45s to 60s."

Richard,

One point of clarification: Does the "s" in 45s to 60s mean seconds? Sounds like a dumb question, I know, but seconds seems counter intuitive to an amateur. I hope you'll bear with me.

Richard Nisley BPL Member
PostedJan 7, 2010 at 10:04 am

Tom,

I made a mistake in my original post which I have now corrected. I meant to say minutes (min).

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