climbing gear

[Ian Rae]

I’m taking an “Alpine Scrambling” class with the mountaineers here in washington. So, I need a helmet and ice axe, and eventually crampons. I’ve been looking at the Camp XLA 210 for an ice axe. ($65 at backcountrygear.com) I’m not seriously considering the helix because of the cost, and not really sure about the suitability for more rigorious duty (now that it’s been downgraded to a “potty trowel”.)

I’m planning on doing Mt Hood this spring, and posssibly Baker. I also want gear light enough to be able to take on longer hikes for occasional use scrambling and crossing snow.

Open to suggestions on the helmet.

[kevin davidson]

The Helix would not be an appropriate tool to learn self arrest or crevasse rescue techniques, anyway. The Camp axe–some people might consider even this to be a little on the light duty side. For training purposes, you might consider renting an axe, first. Crampons, too. Should you purchase an axe, the Black Diamond Raven is a good all around mtneering axe that is not too heavy. There are many others to choose from –from Grivel, BD, Camp, even REI brand.

As for helmets—Black Diamond, Petzl, Camp all have good helmets starting at around $50 and 10 or 11 oz.
There are lighter helmets and pricier ones— look at some at Prolite Gear. The lighter ones tend to provide a more minimalistic protection.

[Robert Ebel]

In choosing the ice axe I would go with one with the longest pick that can get down in there during self arrest. I trust what Black Diamond comes up with so the combination means the Raven. BD is the old Choiunard Equipment Co.

[Ian Rae]

So, you’re both suggesting the raven, not the raven pro (which is lighter)?

[kevin davidson]

Sometimes brute function trumps weight. If you’re new to ice axe management, having something that can be abused more is good and the extra weight is not going to be too noticable. The Raven Pro is a great axe, by all means get it if you have the dough— but the basic Raven will serve you very well, too.

Get your technique and alpine skills up to speed before you start concentrating on cutting the ounces. You will develop a more nuanced feel for the balance and shape of an axe, eventually find one that you feel works more efficiently for you.

[Serge Giachetti]

I just made my first ice axe purchase. Like you, I was looking for the lightest options, but I ultimately decided that it is more important for me to have confidence in my ice axe than for it to weigh 10oz. After all, it is the one piece of gear you are likely to be carrying specifically to save your life in an emergency situation. I ended up purchasing the Black Diamond Raven Pro. It cost me $80 to buy new off of eBay.

p.s. From everything I have read, it sounds like any aluminum headed ice axe will not prove durable enough for frequent self-arrest use. i.e. An aluminum headed ice axe may be fine for self-arrest at some point, but it will wear down if you are intentially using it to repeatedly self-arrest as you would be in a class.

[Ian Rae]

Ok, I’m convinced… I went and bought a Raven Pro ($80…) I could see at some point getting a lighter one if I will need to take it on long hikes rather than climbs. Thanks for all your input.

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