Topic

R-Value…

  • This topic is empty.
Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
PostedAug 4, 2009 at 12:00 am

This is something I should probably know about by now, but sadly enough I do not. I hear some of you guys discuss this term when comparing mats, but you never go into details about its meaning because both parties always know what the other is talking about. I tried doing a search on it too, but did not see any posts that were directed at what it is, at least not on the first page of entries that I were sent back to me.

Therefore, can anyone tell what R-Value is when pertaining to air mattresses, why it is important, and how to tell a good R-Value from a bad one? Thanks.

PostedAug 4, 2009 at 1:49 am

Jack if you were able to read that God Bless you brother, I re-read what I wrote and noticed that I sounded like a complete foreigner at times as well as in other posts. I blame it on having probably should have gone to bed 5 hours ago. My apologies for my boneheaded grammar.

So what is an ideal R-value for everything but Mid-November to begining of March backpacking?

PostedAug 4, 2009 at 3:57 am

2-3 is a normal R-value for 3 season camping, whereas I believe winter pads have R-values around 5-7. Some pads that have no insulation inside have R-values are 1 and they still okay for warm summer use…I think the Big Agnes clearview is like this.

Brad Groves BPL Member
PostedAug 4, 2009 at 7:24 am

Do a search for r-value… there are some pretty in-depth posts, esp. from Richard Nisley. If I'm not mistaken, 20*F bags are rated assuming an R-value of 4 or 5 for the pad underneath the bag being tested.

David Drake BPL Member
PostedAug 4, 2009 at 9:44 am

…I learned in architecture school. R-value measures a material's resistance to heat flow. The formula to find r-value is area (ft^2) x temperature difference (*F)/heat generated by the insulated source (btu/hour), or ft^2 x *F/ (btu/hr).

Here's how it might work:

Say you want to keep a nice, comfy layer of 70 F air next to your skin while you sleep, but the ground you are sleeping on is only 30 F. The temperature difference between the temp you want and the ground is 40 F. Assume an insulation surface area of ~8 ft^2 (that's the area of my sleeping pad). A sleeping person generates about 13 btu/hr per ft^2 of body surface–again, we can assume ~8 ft^2 for body surface area. Actually, since the surface generating heat and the surface needing insulation are the same, we can drop both and just divide 40 F by 13 btu/hr, for a required r-value of about 3.

Pretty close to the numbers above, esp. since clothing, squished sleeping bag and tent floor all contribute a bit of r-value. Plus, different areas of the body lose heat at different rates, and ground temps are somewhat warmer at night than air temp (at least in winter). So R 3 is a ballpark number, not a buying guide, but suggests R 1 won't work on freezing ground.

My Prolite 3 is 1" thick with an r-value of 2.3–I find it both comfortable and warm for all the 3-season conditions I've encountered. But R 2.3/1" is actually pretty mediocre insulation, by building standards: some rigid foams achieve R 7/1". Of course, sleeping on a slab of foil-faced foam would be uncomfortable, and you'd look a little silly walking thru the woods with it.

Hikin’ Jim BPL Member
PostedAug 7, 2009 at 10:06 pm

I don't have a "technical" understanding of R value. I have more practical one: For summer camping I use a 1" Prolite 3 Thermarest, R approx = 2. Works great. For late fall or early spring backpacks, I use a Prolite 4 Thermarest, R approx = 4. For full on winter camping, I use a Ridgerest (R approx = 2.5) under my Prolite 4, for a total R of approx 6.5.

There you have it, Hikin' Jim's "R Plan".

HTH,

HJ

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
Loading...