Apr 3, 2009 at 10:03 am #1235279
I have decided I want to use momentum 0.9 oz taffeta for the shell and 3.2 oz combat climasheild to build an overbag/ summer quilt.
I am 6'-3"
I am a little confused about how big to make the shoulder area.
I want to make it narrower at the foot with a drawstring. IE no sewn in foot box.
My mummy bag dimensions are…
From the head opening to the footbox – 6'3"
Width at Shoulder – 2'8"
Footbox – 12"x12" with rounded corners.
I am thinking the overbag needs to be 7' long for the drawsting footbox. That gives me 9" to wrap around the footbox.
The width of the foot area that I think will work is 3'8"
The shoulder area is where I am wondering.
I laid out a cross section in autocad and came up with a general number of 3'8" wide at the shoulder if I just want it to drape to the ground.
That would make it a rectangular quilt at 3'8" x 7'-0"
As an overbag, if I want it to tuck under 4" on each side it will need to be 4'4" at the shoulder. Total weight would be 15.9 oz.
Really would like it at 14 oz, but its still not too bad.
I guess I could always use this just as an overbag for my 3 pound synthetic mummy which would put my total winter bag/system weight at 4# which is okay.
If I used it only as an overbag in winter I could just sew in a footbox which would save an ounce or so.
I could also just make a dedicated summer quilt only and make it super light like maybe 10-12 oz and save some weight in the summer.
Any comments welcome.Apr 3, 2009 at 11:13 am #1490992
@jbhtekLocale: Upstate New York
I would take the outer widge of your current bag (32") double it for the outer bag girth (64") then subtract 12 inches giving you 52" width. It is best to have a little extra to tuc under you. And this could also double as a summer quilt alone.Apr 5, 2009 at 12:52 am #1491404
for a flat quilt that uses draw cords at the top and bottom i add 6" to my height to get the length. I like 53-55"top to 38-40"foot. I add 2 understraps and a zipper to make the footbox, it works out nice.
-TimApr 5, 2009 at 7:00 am #1491415
Like the zipper idea.
Do you put a flap or a draft stop over the zipper on the inside ??Apr 5, 2009 at 10:42 am #1491437
i don't since it against the ground. It just holds the 2 sides together. I have been using 26" #3coil zippers, bu think in the future will go around 15-20"
-TimApr 5, 2009 at 10:46 am #1491438
Okay, so you got a sewn in footbox with a zip all the way to the end.
I was thinking you had a it zippered to the middle.Apr 6, 2009 at 11:22 am #1491683
@kegelhoffLocale: Southern Cal
I'm pretty sure Tim makes his foot boxes with the zipper like this for his quilts:
KevinApr 6, 2009 at 5:57 pm #1491814
-TimApr 6, 2009 at 6:11 pm #1491824
Looks nice.Apr 7, 2009 at 4:24 am #1491947
@ramblerLocale: On the AT in VA
For width, lie on your side, one shoulder on the ground, the other up. For minimum width you definitely want the edges touching the ground. I would add another six inches for "wiggle room". It will be interesting to see how often you open the zipper all the way. I had a flat, no foot box quilt which I closed off and added a foot box to make it warmer. So far I have not found it too hot in summer. My first quilt has a zipper all the way along the sides so I can close it up all the way. I never used it,so I removed the zipper. Looking at that foot zipper, however, makes me a bit jealous. I think it is a neat idea giving you a nice opening-up-option if your feet get hot.
Another nice option you have with the open foot end and zipper, is the ability to wear the quilt while standing up. I remember doing that one freezing morning with my quilt with the full length zipper. I was able to walk around camp wearing the quilt!
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