1955 Morse

I would definitely suggest trying it or having them show you how it works on fabric before purchasing, if at all possible (I realize it could be through a local classifieds/ selling list page where you’ll meet in some public place). $50 sounds good but getting it serviced is considerably more expensive.  If the machine wasn’t cleaned regularly, the insides could be jammed up with dust and gunk, and I know locally for me it costs $150 for a thorough cleaning of an older machine that hasn’t been well-maintained.  “In working condition” has me a little worried that the seller was not the original owner and may be cleaning out their parents’ basement and did a very cursory check that the machine turns on; the best used machine sellers will usually report on how the machine was used and how regularly it was cleaned. At one point I had several sewing machines that various people had given to me (free sewing machines! sounded great!) that all needed some degree of work or hard-to-find parts. I finally let go of them, keeping only my grandmother-in-law’s never-fail Singer Featherweight from the 1940s, and a Necchi Lydia free-arm machine that has all the features I want but that I’ll have to get serviced to get back into operation.

Make sure the hand wheel turns smoothly, the foot pedal wires are in good shape (not frayed), the needle is responsive to the foot pedal (starts and stops immediately upon pressing and releasing the pedal), and that the needle moves smoothly without any grinding noises. Good luck!

The Morse sewing machines were well made albeit not all the same manufacturer is my understanding. Later (than 50’s) might not be all metal.  The guy who imported Morse machines was from New York and got in trouble because he claimed they were made in USA but eventually was able to move on as he was one of many.  The Morse and other so-called JA machines are almost entirely class 15 cloned systems which means a clone (improved in some respects but not necessarily in all) version of the Singer model 15 which was a production run running over 100 years.  Class 15 bobbins and bobbin cases are easily available from online sources and cheap.  There is a fb group for collectors of vintage Japanese sewing machines.  Mid 50’s might mean it was manufactured by Toyota.  Is this one bright colors or grey?  Personally, if I was going for a machine to MYOG I’d get an all metal Kenmore or other all metal machine that had a 3 step zig zag but that is just me.  Many of these machines will have a single nylon gear in it.  Some can be had and others cannot.  I have lots (too many to admit) machines and that is both industrial and vintage domestic.  I’ve gotten lucky sometimes and been able to replace nylon gears but even with some of these the nylon gears are no longer available.  Maintenance on these machines is quite basic.  An external belt driven motor machine like the Morse if the motor was shot could easily be replaced from an online motor.  Internet tutorials abound on how to lube the motors and clean them.  Timing not all that hard if needed.  If it is not frozen from shellacqued oil good but with an all metal machine a hair dryer and some mineral oil (called White sewing machine oil because it doesn’t leave spots) will free up a frozen machine in short order….in fact with 100 percent metal I just go the steroid approach and break out the heat gun and the oil.  Rusty parts can be cleaned.  I’ve hardly ever seen a worn out domestic as they typically were not used much in a household.  Wish I could see a picture of it to tell you more.  Best regards, Mike