18650 Headlamp: Zebralight vs. Fenix

Thanks again. From those comparisons, I can see the appeal of the “floody” series but I think I will stick with the H600w for now, and order the Mk II since it’s discounted (but on backorder).

I’m not sure I understand the advantages of unprotected batteries, but if cost is the main one, I don’t mind paying a bit extra for protected since I will only need 3 batteries.

Is there another source for the ENB chargers? FastTech is sold out.

https://m.fasttech.com/products/1421/10002784/1535101-enb-1a-1-2-18650-li-ion-battery-usb-emergency

Re: “I started my good flashlight collection with an 18650 Thru-nite TH10 (CW) that was a bargain, but it only whetted my whistle for a Zebralight.”

Wondering why the ThruNites fall short. The TH20 looks interesting, albeit it does not use an 18650 for its Li-Ion battery.

A Non-flashoholic wants to know.
Thanks.

I think the Thrunite TH20 is a great value.  It’s only a headlamp, cannot be clipped to your packstrap or pocket or hammock ridgeline as easily as the Zebralight.  I’m sure others have reviewed the specs or compared the beams to suggest why the Zebralight garners such a higher price, because the major components are not 4x the cost.

Truth be told, as a new collector, I drank the coolaid and had to have a Zebralight after reading a bunch of positive reviews, some by folks that have steered me right on other gear.  Honestly the TH20 idea came from a Shug review too, but I have to say the Zebralight H52w has exceeded very high expectations using AA and 14500.  I’m not sure I’ll get the H600w at list price, but if doing it over I might get that instead of the TH20 and H52w

.

I have a ZebraLight H600Fc III.

My criterias for choosing a headlamp were:
1) 18650 batteries
2) high-CRI and warmest white possible – our eyes are biologically/evolutionary more comfortable with warm light at night (think thousands-millions years of campfires vs modern office cold white lamps), also I’m convinced that higher CRI is much more important than extra lumens with less adequate color reproduction, so I don’t sometimes freeze for a moment while brain figures out what is that I’m looking at
3) mixed flood/throw beam profile for maximum versatility

I have successfully used the light for various tasks ranging from night chores (low mode) to hiking (med to high modes) and even riding my bike down some mountains (high mode). Beam profile is very versatile and comfortable. Could not do mountain biking at all with flood-only beam, would not be comfortable hiking with neither narrow nor flood beam extremes.

This is now my only light and the only thing I would prefer is having a warmer LED color temp.

PS. They had it listed on backorder when I ordered but I got it delivered really quick as if it was shipped immediately. Maybe ask them about lead times.

sean …

the ENB chargers may no longer be generally available … also you need to be careful … a year or two ago i posted up a video of a fake ENB 3 cell charger that overcharged a 18650 bat, the voltage kept on increasing till the tester no longer felt safe (it never leveled off) … not the best thing

just get one of the litokaala 100 or nitecore F1  … some of the millers test fine, others have issues accepting protected … the other consideration is to be able to charge RCR123 (16340) since yr zebralight cr123 lamp might be able to use those as well, this requires a charger than can step down to 0.5A for safe charging
which comes back to … you guessed it … litokaala 100 or nitecore F1 ….

as to the bat just buy the zebralight protected 3400 mAh bat … its on sale and its guaranteed to fit yr lamp … if you really wanted to take a chance you could ask around CPF for 3500 mAh bats (the latest) that MAY fit yr light, but then again they might not

for applications like a headlamp theres no real reason NOT to use protected … for certain applications like high powered flashlights (much more powerful than a 1000 lumen headlamp) or vaping a protection circuit can limit the current preventing you from getting the maximum output … but for normal headlamps where the draw off a XML2 emmiter probably wont exceed 3 amps its a totally moot point …

since you are going to be dealing with loose bats all the time in yr pack, and charging them constantly … just get protected bats

remember that fake charger i posted above … all it takes is a defective or damaged charger for an overcharge condition to happen … it takes ~2 hours to charge an 18650 3500 mAh bat, while you SHOULD never leave it alone, the reality is that you might doze off, yr kid/wife/dog might demand yr attention, etc ….

and all it takes is a brain fart for a bit of a smoke show to happen if you short it … again brain farts happen when yr cold tired wet hungry and in the dark …

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAPC3rf-x9g&feature=player_embedded

“I had the battery in this pocket by itself, it exploded through the pocket, charred and melted everything in the bag,” Mcinerney said.
 

;)

Biking might be a totally different deal, but for super light wilderness trekking, I think the ThruNite TH20 will be worth trying. With one extra charged Li-Ion battery carried in a small cylindrical water proof match case-the red ones you can buy anywhere, including Walmart. But no reading, and my AM and PM meals are taken when there is still plenty of daylight.
One concern is the spot at the beam’s center, shown in one of the review clips that come up on Google. No matter how wide the beam, I find it much easier to use a diffuser and have the beam totally uniform for meals, and trekking in the dark, as occasionally happens if I get the urge to explore (euphemism for lost). But I think it’s worth a shot to possibly get away from the expense of constantly having to buy non-rechargeable expensive Lithium pen cells.
Only other concern is battery fire or explosion, as noted in some posts above, so will carry the lamp at first as a back-up light on day hikes for a good while to see what happens. That ALU casing could get really hot!

I came for the Internet fight and “Intelligent conversations about lightweight backpacking technique, gear, and philosophy from the most passionate backpackers in the world…”

No but seriously I think CPF would have your answer hands down because this is 100% in their wheelhouse…

Having run, hiked and climbed with headlamps I can say each has a best light IMHO i.e. if your rigging descents or climbing in the dark, a light that’s too bright floods out the details you’re looking for… and as for running it can make certain terrain features fade in and out thus you judge them incorrectly…

As far as just a regular hiking HL I guess I’m  old school and still just have an E-Lite

Happy hunting

i.e. if your rigging descents or climbing in the dark, a light that’s too bright floods out the details you’re looking for… and as for running it can make certain terrain features fade in and out thus you judge them incorrectly…

It’s worth noting that these days there are very very few lights that don’t have at least 3 output levels, so “too bright” should not be a concern.

I find a good analogy for light output is cars.

Most of us drive cars that are capable of exceeding 120 mph but very few of us push this performance and if we do it’s only a few times a year, that extra power can be useful though for towing, overtaking and up steep hills, it also means that at cruising speed the car will be more comfortable, the gearing/revs lower and enough oumphhhh not to need to change down gears on any uphill sections of the motorway/freeway

With 1000+ lumen torches it’s very similar,

It’s unlikely you’ll be running a 1000+ lumen (non floody) torch at full output while hiking or around camp, the higher output does have it’s worth though.

If you are in a open area with good visibility it is possible to use the higher output to scout out paths at a decent distance, i’ve used mine at higher output to find my tent after a night “trip”, to locate a blown away stuff sack and to signal to my hiking mate, the higher output is also useful if you speed up your pace.

So worrying about a torch being too powerful is not a problem these days, you just set it to a lower output level and have that extra output sitting there in case it’s needed.

Saying thaT for me personally lumen output is pretty low on my list of priorities for selecting a torch:

• Torch type (i.e. headtorch, hand held etc)
• Battery format (AA, 18650, multi 18650 etc)
• Beam type (flood, throw or somewhere in between depending on what i need the torch for)
• Tint (i’ll happily sacrifice a few lumens nice better colour rendition on the trail)
• Lumen output

Once that’s narrowed down my choices i’ll look at things like (in no particular order):

• Switch position
• Size/weight
• Price
• Manufacturers reliability
• User interface