How to properly set hiking pole length?

I adjust mine equally. Start with them 2"-3" below your armpit. If you are going up really steep slopes, make them shorter to suit and longer for going down steep slopes.

Waist height would be way too short. You want them to help you stand up straight and remain stable.

You might feel a little silly with them on a dead flat, but as soon as the going gets rough you'll really appreciate them. Navigating rocks and roots is much easier and rock-hopping streams is a joy.

If you are going up a short steep section you can grip the shaft farther down and switch back to the regular grips at the top. Some poles have extra foam on the shaft for just that purpose. If you find yourself doing that often, you can use self-stick wraps like the ones made for baseball bats to put on the shaft. I "french whipped" one orphaned pole I had with braided nylon twine to improve the grip and it gave me a reserve supply of line too.

I turn mine upside down, and with my hand under the basket, set the length so that my elbow makes a 90 degree angle. Then I adjust them as needed, if needed, for uphill and downhill.

One method that i used to get a general idea of what length pole to use is the ski pole method mentioned on here before.

I used to work at a ski shop and all you have to do is get the customer to flip the pole upside down and grip the tip above the basket. Then find/adjust the pole length that creates an angle a little more than 90 degrees b/t your bicep and forearm (or you can think of it as the length to make your forearm parallel with the ground).

Anywho, just my thoughts, but i found that was a great jumping point for me to get an idea of what the generic setting should be. You'll find, like the poster above mentioned(sorry forgot the name, been a long post :P) that you'll need some fine tuning according to your hiking style/terrain.

Good luck and i hope that helps some!

– Dana

@Dale – good ideas

@Joe – Beat me to it! Though i've always gripped the pole above the basket. When i was working at the ski shop we found that gripping under the basket produces a pole length slightly too long, but then again that was for skiing. YMMV!

Probably already mentioned up above, but anyway, a good rule of thumb:

1. On flat terrain — your arms should be parallel to the ground when you're holding the grip.

2. Hiking uphill — shorten the poles somewhat (for better "push").

3. Hiking downhill — extend the poles somewhat (for better stability).

I adjust my three section poles frequently to get the most benefit from the extra effort they require. I set the lower leg close to its maximum length, and then can adjust the poles using only the top lock while hiking.

I never adjust my trekking poles for uphill or downhill. I like a 90 degree lower arm position or slightly less.

Over the years I have been frustrated by the locking mechanism on trekking poles. Because of that I have gone to one piece poles like BPL STIX 130cm. I have tried Komperdell C-3's and and Leki Makalu Ultralite. Both of the two trekking poles have failed me several time in the middle of a hike. Not good!! I like adjustable poles on down hill and up hill but the locking piece always seems to fail on me. Using a single piece pole gives me one less thing to worry about on a hike. This is really important if you are using your poles as part of your shelter system.

Jay
You will not find many Black Diamond (flick lock) pole users complaining about the locking mechanism…
Often I find rave comments about the service offered by a certain brand, I just prefer poles that don't need to be serviced.
Franco

I use my trekking poles pretty sparsingly since i usually feel better w/o them (only when steep downhill or heavy loads)
the way i work them (which might relate to what you actually asked in the OP) is i extend the top part out totally and then the smaller section as needed. the rational is that the thinner tube is weaker so id rather have as much of it inside the bigget tube.

although you might think this hinders frequent adjustments its actually easier (for me). since i have the twist and lock type pole – i just lift the pole up, grab the basket and twist while holding the second section firm

Mike

Martin,

Here is a link to a DVD that I bought when I first bought hiking poles.

It is very comprehensive.

http://www.rei.com/product/751284

Per the video, you want to set the 2nd section, which is closest to the top of your pole/handle about "open/wide" the widith of your fist.

Then adjust the lowerest section so that your forearms are 90 degrees or about the height of your waist/hips.

All future adjustments will be made using the 2nd or upper section because it is closer to your hand and therefore easier to reach/adjust.

On the down hill sections, you will lengthen the 2nd section appropriately so that when you are swinging your poles on the down hill, they are long enough to reach out and down so that you are not having to bend forward or over extend your arms reach to have the tips plant on the ground comfortably to easy your pace and weight. Ultimately, you are looking to decrease the impact on your knees and body.

On the uphill sections of the trail, you will shorten the length of the 2nd section so that as you swing your poles up hill, they are planting easily and are not too long such that they hit the upward slope of the trail and prevents your arms from easily moving/swinging your poles.

The key is that as you are going uphill, you want to gently push off with your arms to assist you as you are traveling up a trail to take just a little bit of strain off your body.

As you are goind downhill, you are using the extended poles to control your pace down hill, protection your knees from excessive impact, and to use the tips of the poles to preventing slipping, falling, stumbling.

Hope that this helps.

The DVD is listed at REI at $15.00 and is a relatively cheap investment in how to effectively use your poles.

I honestly say that I could not have completed any of my longer trips without them.

-Tony

I set the length when I hit the trail and don't adjust them until I set up my shelter. In MN, there can be a lot of elevation change, but it's for relatively short distances. You'll never go up for down hill for 5 miles. I'd be adjusting them all the time, and since I have the finicky REI Peak UL poles, I don't like to mess with my luck once I get them locked in good. :)

I found this site to be the best info on how to adjust and use trekking poles: http://www.personal.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/poles.htm

I don't adjust my trekking poles for hiking, but do adjust them for use with my shelter. I'm pretty short and the length I need for hiking is shorter than what is needed with either of my Tarptents (Squall 2 and Rainshadow–the latter for hiking with my grandkids).

If Gossamer Gear ever gets the Squall Classic going again (there are now specs for the 2009 model on their website, which gives me a little hope), the height of that is exactly the length of my trekking poles as adjusted for hiking. If this tent works for me, I won't even have to adjust my poles for my shelter.

I'm with the last two posters: I tend to set the poles at the start to the 90 deg position and leave it there until camp. To adjust for uphill and downhill, i grab the grip differently because waiting for people while they fiddle with their gear is a drag.

For uphill, you can use the strap 'incorrectly' that is, putting only the fingers through the strap so that you grab the lower half of the grip, or for steeper hills, put just the first two fingers through so that you grab the shaft below the grip.

For downhill, i palm the top of the grip like cane. These alternative grips can give +-3" adjustment in effective pole length and it takes no time on the trail.