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Mid layer question for winter

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Brett Peugh BPL Member
PostedNov 22, 2008 at 9:41 am

Now I have been trying to flesh out my winter system a bit.

Most of the time now I will take a Patagonia SunTech LS shirt because I found this helps to keep the bugs and sun off of me when when it is warm and a DriDucks jacket for the rain and wind. For the shoulder seasons I have adopted using a Patagonia Capilene 3 to be used with the SunTech and a Patagonia Micro Puff Pullover for when I stop or if it drops suddenly. This not an ad for Patagonia but there are few companies that make an XXL that fits me.

Someone I know told me about the RMI Guides gear lists for the different summits they do and I thought I would base my system off of theirs since I experience similar temps here in the flatlands without going vertical. That and the fact that they should know what they are talking about or people would die. At this point I have to mention that I was able to pick up a Montbell Alpine Down Jacket that fits and I have a Nunatak Down Hood. What is missing is that layer(s) between the Cap 3 and the down jacket/shell. At this point RMI suggests you wear something comparable to a 100wt fleece and a softshell jacket made out of Windstopper brushed with light fleece. To me this sounds redundant. Why would you want to wear something that has Windstopper in it if you already have a shell? I know that most people would try to do more lighter and thinner layers than a thicker layer but wouldn't I get the same or better insulation and much better breathability and weight reduction by using something like an R2 fleece at this stage instead of the two layers? If the wind is bothering then I just pop on the DriDucks shell.

Rod Lawlor BPL Member
PostedNov 22, 2008 at 6:49 pm

Brett,

Check out the concurrent Softshell thread.

As you mentioned, RMI are climbing, not hiking. This brings three good reasons to use a softshell, although I prefer Schoeller Dryskin to Windstopper.

1. You're going uphill, but often in stop-go pace. You'll get warm and then stop to belay. The theory of softshells is to allow better breathability than a rainshell. I like standing next to climbing/walking companions at a stop on a hilly cold trip. I can see the steam pumping out of my MEC Feratta jacket in a big white cloud, even along my arms. By comparison, I can see their heads steaming, but not their hardshells. All that moisture is trapped in the jacket. It's hard for me to get this much heat generated on the flat, short of jogging.

2. You're wearing a harness, and are tied in, possibly (probably) with a coil of rope over your shoulder/chest. All of this makes it much harder to add or subtract layers. If you're belaying, your hands are also occupied, and it's generally considered to be bad form to ask your partner to secure themselves while you grab a jacket from your pack and put it on. Instead the Feratta allows me to thermoregulate by pulling the hood on or off over my helmet (It's REALLY stretchy), undoing the front zip, and pulling the stretchy sleeves up to my elbows and stay there, all one handed, or using my teeth.

3. It's durable. There's no membrane to puncture, and it's almost impossible to tear, short of snagging a crampon or axe. This is pretty reassuring, when you're jamming your torso into a crack to climb, or using an arm bar while you set pro.

So while you're staying horizontal, I'd agree that you should stick with your system and rationale.

Rod

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