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tarptent for two and a few others


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  • #1230461
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    well figured after bothering everyone to help find materials. i'll post the starting project thread. the goal was to start today, but between seattle sea fair traffic, driving past seattle fabrics a few times and spending too much time at rei testing out the jam2 and waiting for my dad to finish looking at backpacks for a carry on bag… we didn't get much done today, but all the materials are finally gathered.

    i got 9yds of silnylon, 5 yds .9oz noseeum mesh, and 3/4" velcro from speer hammocks

    the various widths of nylon webbing, some miniture camera clips, 1/2" grommets, #3 zipper and a bivy bag pattern from seattle fabrics.

    from quest outfitters, i got 10 micro locks, a few yards of 3/32" shock cord and cord, mini cord locks, then some whistle buckles for the packs.

    the initial supplies

    the plan:
    building henry shires original tarptent for 2, installing a bathtub floor that is removable. it will clip to the inside of the tarp on the back of the tent guyouts via the camera clips and shockcord. the tent poles will be rei compact ul peak trekking poles. i ran some simple trig on the pattern to keep the interior room under the tarp the same with the 22" rear pole. we are planning on at least a front beak and possibly a rear beak since it rains so much here in the northwest. then various stuff sacks for the tarp. here's the start and hopefully over the next few weeks i'll be able to post some progress pics. the goal is to be done, and take the tarp for a test run on the weekend of aug 16 and 17th, either on the pct, mt rainier or the olympics.

    if this project goes well, i'll be personally making a solo tarp and bivy for when it's just me. this particular project my dad will be helping with most of the sewing on the tarp and teaching me how to use the machine, since i'm a noob with sewing machines and all.

    #1445518
    Roger Caffin
    BPL Member

    @rcaffin

    Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe

    Welcome to the ranks of MYOG.
    Sounds as though you have more than enough for one tarp!

    #1445525
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    i should have plenty of extras to make all the stuff sacks my girlfriend and i need plus a spare ul bear bag to have for anyone that comes along and needs one. the tarptent called for 6yds of sil, and the tubbed floor i designed is about 2.5yds, so i'll have a bunch of scrap from the tarp and 1/2 to 1 yard of sil for stuff sacks and some scrap noseeum for the bivy project if it all goes well. i'm guessing about 2 lbs for the actual tarp and floor weight. but it's a hell of a lot better than the 6 pound tent i've been carrying… it's not bad, but too heavy for me. this "tent" plus switching to 2 – 1 liter platy water bottles to collect/treat water as i go and switching to the jam2 pack from my rei ul60 is going to save me about 10 lbs of carried weight. presently with 3L of water and enough food for my g/f and i for 2 days, i carry about 25lbs wet.

    #1445599
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    well not a lot per-say but we got the main tent portions cut… we had to utilize the garage floor to have enough room to measure and cut out the 100" section for the main portion of the tarp. we then played around with scrap material and trying to get used to sewing the slick stuff. i figured out the felled seam from the tiny pics on bpl and showed dad how it was exactly sewn, then he sewed the 2 sections together. that's about as far we got done today. the thread lines may have their waves but it's looking good so far.

    trimming away

    ridge line

    ridge line, folded tarp

    #1445658
    Keith Selbo
    Spectator

    @herman666

    Locale: Northern Virginia

    I use tarbuck hitch knots on all the guys of my two man tarp tent (BILGY Too)instead of micro-locks. They work just as well as micro-locks with the advantage that you don't have to carry the micro-locks.

    The tarbuck hitch was recommended by the tent designer as being more reliable on the thin slick guy line than a taught line hitch.

    I've never had any trouble with it slipping. I tried to make it slip once by pulling on it with all my strength but it wouldn't budge, yet it could still be easily adjusted.

    Amazing!

    #1445664
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    the micro locks are actually for the stuff sacks. I have the bpl aircore pro tarp guyline kit with the adjusters for the actual guy lines. and the titanium tent stakes from bpl. still need 2 more stakes, should of paid attention while I was ordering the stakes back when they were on sale. 6 is the minimum to pitch the tarp tent, really I need 8 in my kit…

    #1445692
    Tim Marshall
    BPL Member

    @marshlaw303

    Locale: Minnesota

    get 2 easton aluminum 6" nail stakes to use for the ridgeline pull-outs. They hold better than the ti skewers. I use them for ridgelines and am very happy with them.

    -Tim

    #1445714
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    good idea. i'm sure i can buy just 2 of those somewhere. how about the ti nail stakes? or is their not much for weight difference?

    #1445716
    te – wa
    BPL Member

    @mikeinfhaz

    Locale: Phoenix

    you can also buy cheap gutter nails in 6" length at Home Depot or similar. about $0.25 each

    #1445739
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    well progress on my first lightweight shelter is well on it's way. essentially everything up and to the setup point is sewn on, the mesh, the guyout points, the grommets, the reenforcement patches for the guyout points… the next step is to buy the trekking poles that i'm going to be using, set her up, pin out the zippers and the atachment points for the rest of the mesh, install the beak, and build the bathtub floor. here's some pics of the progress.

    had to rework the beak to a 23" center depth instead of 24" do to space on the scrap material. ran the trig and kept all the angles and lengths to porportion.

    downsized beak

    >tracing out the noseeum

    guyout reenforcement

    grommet and guyout on ridge line

    guyout point

    #1445748
    Roger Caffin
    BPL Member

    @rcaffin

    Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe

    Photography is getting better too.
    Compliments.

    #1445764
    Tim Marshall
    BPL Member

    @marshlaw303

    Locale: Minnesota

    BPL Ti nails $25 for 6 @.29oz each (per BPL site)

    Easton AL nails $2 each @ .3oz each (per gossamer gear site)

    I'll carry that extra .02oz to save the cash. To my knowledge similar items in AL and TI are normally close in weight. The reason we normally use ti for UL is that for the same weight the TI is normally stronger, and more heat resistant. For these stakes the strength of the AL is plenty because they are designed so all the force is along the spine of the stake vs a shepherds crook which moves the axis of force off center.

    -Tim

    #1445773
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    the first day I asked my g/f to bring my camera and she brought my cellphone… yesterday I took out the slr for pics instead.

    #1445891
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    well, i got the trekking poles today. to my surprise they were $30 off… i didn't see a sign, but that's how they rang up even checked the reciept, and they were a sale price and had the astrik saying that they wouldn't appear on my dividend. also picked up a mini gerber para knife to replace my 6" blade i carry.

    i setup the tarp and pinned the mesh to be sewn. the tarp is about an inch shorter on the sides than initially planned so there was some excess mesh on the front that got trimmed and when i accounted for the taller rear pole in the tarp material i forgot to account for it in the mesh. which leaves only 2 inches overlapping on the ground, so i'll have to add an extension when we sew the mesh corners together. it's not perfect, but it should work great. next steps are to sew the mesh together, add the zipper, extend the back, reinvent the sag fix on the back corner so that it's adjustable, the directions for the fix use a fixed length setup. then to add the attachment points for the removable bathtub floor, make the final measurements for area then cut and install the floor.

    the beaks are still of concern. i'm curious how the reinforcment patch will hold up on the beak since the poles stick up so much and will contact the carbide tips. i'm wondering if i should just sew a slit in the top of the beak so it slides over the tip instead of resting on it… it'll still protect from driving winds but some water will run down the poles… since the rear is raised a good 3 inches, i'll probably design a small rear beak. nothing large, but enough to help protect the top foot of the rear section of the tarp.

    mock up setup

    pinning up

    pinning up

    #1445939
    Brad Groves
    BPL Member

    @4quietwoods

    Locale: Michigan

    Jared, it's coming along great. It doesn't sound like you are, but don't worry about wavy stitch lines or having to unexpectedly alter something–it's all part of the fun! (And doing it teaches you how to do it better next time.) I'll second Tim on the Easton Al nail pegs. They hold great, super strong, light, less $–and the funny thing is, they're actually lighter than a couple of the Ti nail stakes I've seen. Bizarre, right?

    #1445965
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    yeah, i'm not worried about wavy stiching. if I wanted perfection I would of saved up and bought a premade one. it has to help keep the rain off in the event of a storm. it's my first tarp, i've bivy camped before in the marine corp, but no tarp. with luck i'll get back to using a bivy soon enough. I can't wait to try the tarp out on the 16th and 17th of august.

    #1446585
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    well it's pretty much done other than some seam sealing and 2 more 3/4" x 3/4" pieces of velcro to keep the beak down secure. the grand total weight is 1 lb 9 oz after i switch to the 6" easton aluminum nail stakes. presently for setup i used some .6 oz aluminum stakes that came with my rei half dome tent, so i weighed it with only one of the 2 stakes to give a fairly accurate weight for the two .3oz nail stakes which i'll be carrying. The weight includes the removable bathtub floor that is shock corded and clipped to the tarp via mini camera clips, the beak and all other accesories. I do need to trim the main guylines to the shorter length that i tied them to, left excess to play with out in the field.
    Also tossing the idea of velcro patches to secure the floor to the netting at the corners and middle of the long side. the scale i picked up was a $30 dollar up to 72oz with .05 oz accuracy. so now i can weigh all my gear. including my beast of a half dome tent. i want to see how much weight i really lost. according to the rei site it was about 6 pounds packaged. any tips for a good seal on the ridge line? i've read the article on diluting the silnet, and have the materials. debating whether to seal all the outer seams, but it's probably best to seal them to keep the girlfriend happy.

    here's the pics thus far, with luck i'll have some pics from the field next week…

    setting up for floor installation.
    laying out the floor
    installation of shock cord and clips
    tubbed floor about in
    up and running
    the interesting adaptation for trekking poles and a beak... not too worried about the small leak...
    another view
    checking the ability to leave the fly open in a storm
    flooring install close up
    flooring install short side
    on the scale
    loosly packed tarp in an oversized stuff sack next to my nagalene bottle for school

    #1446596
    Linsey Budden
    Member

    @lollygag

    Locale: pugetropolis

    SWEET!

    #1446699
    Tim Marshall
    BPL Member

    @marshlaw303

    Locale: Minnesota

    the only seam that needs sealing is the ridgline. The beak will drip a bit anyway due to the small gap for the pole. And the other seams are on the edge where water already can come under. The ridge line is the only seam that needs the protection.

    -Tim

    #1446742
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    final weight savings…. 4 lbs 3.6oz, the previous tent's carried weight was 5 lbs 12.6 oz, the new tent weight is 1 lb 9 oz… fairly considerable weight loss. also contemplating making a flap for that hole on the beak…

    #1447156
    Keith Selbo
    Spectator

    @herman666

    Locale: Northern Virginia

    I'm curious as to why you made the tub floor separate. I would have thought sewing it to the tent would keep out more creepy crawleys, maybe even snakes.

    #1447159
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    the main reason is versatility. i want the ability to use it as just a ground sheet on a nice clear night so that we can sleep under the stars. we will most likely be putting velcro tabs in each corner and halfway along the longer sides to seal it a little better with less stuff spread out in the tent. in reality when stuff is on the ground sheet it seats the floor down to the mesh that actually overlaps underneath the floor. not heavily worried about snakes on the western side of washington, just the mosqitos

    seam sealing on saturday and weather permitting i should be headed out for 2 and a 1/2 days of hiking on the northern loop and part of the wonderland trail in mt rainier national park. but the weather is threatening lightining and possible rain the days before and after… we'll see what happens and maybe i'll get some field shots of the tent.

    #1468419
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    well it's a bit late, but here's the pictures from the first trail run of the tarp tent at mt rainier national park on a 19 mile solo hike. it was the last overnight hike i got to do last season. there were a few modifications that still need to be done before this coming season approaches.
    -velcro tabs at the 4 corners and midway on the long sides to help keep the floor and mesh together when the floor is in use.
    -add the sag fix the back corner, the tarp experienced a considerable amount of sag on the higher lower corner and pooling of rain water that needs to be fixed.
    -make a small beak on the rear of the tarp to prevent driving rain from wetting my sleeping bag.

    so here's the pics.

    tarp

    tarp

    tarp

    tarp

    after these fixes for my tarp tent for 2 are done, then it'll be off to starting my solo 5×9 tarp for myself to be used with a tigoat bivy. the tarp should have no ridge lines to sew, or netting to be added, so it should be easier.

    #1469532
    Jeff Antig
    Member

    @antig

    Locale: Pacific Northwest

    Wow Jared, that looks real nice! You have inspired me to make my own and I'm writing the materials I need as of now. However, I want to make mine with a sewn silnylon floor since there are an abundance of snakes and crawlers where I'm at. I tried to look at Henry Shire's website but couldn't figure out the dimensions for making the bottom. If it isn't too much trouble for you, could you please get the dimensions for me? It'll be the same as yours, Tarptent-for-two. Thanks

    -Jeff

    #1469575
    Jared Cook
    Member

    @rooinater

    Locale: Northwet

    after I get home from school i'll find the plans I made and try to scan them.

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