Insulating my titan kettle handles

Ian, I figure I owe you this one since I tried this first on the SP 700 I got from you. On the SP stuff atleast just pop off the handles and run the small silicone tube over it. I ran it around the bends to help hold it in place. Fit is excellent. I am not sure of the Titan handle diameter, but assume it is similar. I will say it is not the easiest to run the tube over the handle, but seems to be well worth the trouble. You can buy 8' of this stuff for about $2…on the cheap at any pet supply. Also I do think the use of a medical glove helps get a grip on the tubing. I did also use some hot water to make it more pliable.

You might check out a product that's described by Jason as "silicone" from "Smooth On" in his following comment for a BPL thread that discusses the insulated handles on an Evernew .9L titanium pot used with a Caldera cone:

"I am a big fan of the insulated handles on the evernew .9, and have not have problems with handles and the caldera stove.

"I have recently switched to the ti-tri and am going to try to coat those handels as well with silicon from smooth-on."

For the entire thread, see the following link:

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/xdpy/forum_thread/9205/index.html?skip_to_post=66814#66814

I haven't ever used the silicone "Smooth-On" product, but did find it's website at the following link:

http://www.smoothonsecure.com/store/index.php?cPath=278

JRS

Hmm that airline thing sounds good! Also, I guess if needed I could order some thicker stuff from McMaster for more heat resistance.

I'm curious about "popping off" the handles. I don't have my Titan in front of me so I can't take a look, but do I take it rightly that the handles must not be closed loops? They're just, what, C-shaped (ish)?

Then I'm envisioning that you just pull up and down at the same time to pop the handles out of the welded plate. Is this right? Does that not deform the handles in a way that makes it tight to get a good factory fit again once they're put back in? Enlighten me.

Yes, just a "C" shape maybe 3/8 inch into the sleeve. I will say it is not at tight as new, but as we all find after about a dozen times of folding our handles in and out they loosen slighty. There was already play from top to bottom so I simply pushed all the way to the top an popped the end out. I didn't seem to bend it, just flexed it. I reversed this to put them back. I gave an additional squeeze after they went back into the sleeve to tighten as much as possible. Once again this is on the SP. What MSR did w/ the Titan I don't know.

I always leave the handles sticking out, rather than folded in flush, when I have my Titan Kettle on a Snow Peak GST100 canister stove. I can bring the Kettle to the boil and then pick it up by the top of the handles quite easily. They are rarely more than warm out at the corners.

I have found the handles get a bit warmer with a Coleman Xtreme stove, as this has a wider burner. But I only use this stove in the snow. Cooling the top of the handles under these conditions requires a very complex operation involving a small lump of snow …

Maybe the problem you have is a burner which is too big for the Kettle?

Roger, my problem up to now may have been the burner setup. But given that I'm getting on the Caldera bandwagon very shortly, this could be a moot point. A Caldera Cone should keep the pot's handles quite cool right?

But really, I just want to figure out a way to insulate the handles for that extra usability margin, and to overall add a little versatility to this little pot.

A friend still has my borrowed Titan so, Roger, do you know if its handles are C-shaped like the SP mug?

The Titan does not have the same handle shape as the Snow Peaks:

Oh yeah, I mean I know how they're shaped, I just want to know if they're closed loops or open under that spot-welded plate. If they're closed they can't be removed, but if they're open "c-shaped" then I should be able to get them out just as has been done with the SP mug handles.

Nevermind. I didn't read the posts above carefully enough. My mistake.

They are open and can probably be removed, but I am not about to try and damage my MSR pot to find out.

Thought this might be of use…

Hey thanks man, that turned out really good for you!

I'm speculating: if you used a segment of tubing about a half-inch or inch longer then the ends of the tubing would squish up against the walls of the pot, which would probably go a long way toward A) making the handles rattle a lot less, and B) reducing the annoying amount of free swing that the handles currently have, i.e. creating a stiffer hinge.

Could be worth a try.

I get my Titan back from my friend tomorrow morning. Excited to play with it.

Definitely C-shaped, and the inserted bit is not long. See below – sorry about the slight blurring.

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I hold my kettle at the top, thus:

Removal is best done from the bottom. Getting the top end out requires that you tilt the handle sideways to clear the rolled rim.

Cheers

Yep, thanks Roger. I just got my Titan back this morning and immediately yanked the handles out with no problem. Didn't even have to bend 'em much to make it work. Now for that silicone tubing . . .

Using Roger's method of only touching the upper/outer ends of the handles; might one remove the handles and reinstall them upside down? Puts the upper corner even farther away from the burner.

Hey good idea!

Just so people know, I did the thing with the silicone tubing mentioned above. I had no trouble whatsoever making this work with the Titan Kettle, and the handles aren't bent out of shape or awkwardly loose after being reattached to the pot . . . so if you want to try, don't fear–it works!

What about coating the handles with silicone caulk? You wouldn't even need to remove them.

After burning my fingers TWICE this week I came up with a simple idea – finger puppets.

Imagine a mini oven glove that fits on thumb and finger – several layers of cotton on the inside edge.