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GoLIte Shangri-La 1 – mine is lighter than listed weight

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PostedFeb 14, 2008 at 2:28 pm

I just received a GoLite Shangri-La 1, and the weight on my digital postal scale is 16.8oz for just the tarp (no stakes or stuff sack).

This brings this down to a true 1 lb fully enclosed shelter. Not bad for a four-season tent with 1.76oz silnylon! I can add a 7oz bivy or a 7oz groundcloth/bug net combo (MLD Serenity Shelter or SMD Serenity NetTent) and have a true double-walled shelter for the same weight as the lightest Lunar Solo option, and lighter than the lightest floored Shires Tarptent. There is ample room in the vestibule for gear, and extra space below my feet (good place for shoes or snowshoes).

The build quality is just like the GoLite Hex 3; rugged and durable. I have absolutely no fear that the guylines (3/4" grosgrain webbing) will rip out in anything less than hurricane-force winds. There is heavy-duty cordura at the peaks, where the poles are placed, and loops for attaching netting on both ends. Also, this tent is great for taller people. I'm 6'2" and able to stretch out without fear of my feet or head touching the walls, a real concern in my Gatewood Cape. I can sit up comfortably, though it is of course not as much space as you'd get in an arc-shaped entry. I'll still use my Gatewood in the summer for the weight savings of the poncho, but for above treeline or when expecting wind, I think I'm going to be very happy with my new 1lb rig.

I'll post a review once I spend the weekend in it. So far I think ventilation will be just fine with dual peak vents (one at the foot end!), and with the tarp raised a few inches off the ground (easy to do with the supplied Y-Stakes). If ventilation is as good as I hope it is, this may prove to be an excellent year-round solo shelter.

John S. BPL Member
PostedFeb 14, 2008 at 2:44 pm

It's a yellow hut 1 with a jacked up front end, front vent, and jacked up price ; ).

PostedFeb 14, 2008 at 2:51 pm

Forgot to mention that campsaver.com offers a 20% discount if you sign up for their newsletter. Also free shipping. I purchased mine for at total of $119 shipped.

If you read through my post fully, you would have read there are two vents, one by the foot, and one by the head. Here is a picture of the rear:

GoLite Shangri-La 1 rear

The two large peak vents make this a very different shelter than the GoiLite Hut 1. A fully closed Hut (or SpinnShelter, for that matter), will be difficult to adequately ventilate. The rear vent on the Shangri-La 1 is a good 20 inches closer to the ground than the head vent, which should aid air circulation (also note that this is 5-6inches taller than a Spinnshelter). And these are high quality vents. IMO they are the best no-hassle peak vents in this product category; they point downward and overlap, so there is very little chance of rain entering, they self-open (my 2-year old Hex 3 vents have yet to bend out of shape), and they don't droop like most vents in this category (Tarptent 2 comes to mind here).

John S. BPL Member
PostedFeb 14, 2008 at 4:52 pm

I wasn't trying to belittle the shelter, cuz I might get one. I love my Hut 1 and think it ventilates just fine.

How much mesh is there under that vent? Thanks for showing the back end of it…

PostedFeb 14, 2008 at 7:30 pm

John,

Sorry to sound defensive; I had just received my new toy, and it was suddenly relegated to a more expensive version of last year's model. =)

Seriously though, the mesh is 10.5" wide x 11" high. The vent overhang extends about 3" below the bottom of the mesh when measured at the center, and a few more inches at the edges. Certainly not as much as you'd get from a Tarptent, but I'm not looking for a Tarptent replacement (already own one). Rather, I think this will strike a good balance between excellent storm resistance while still allowing a good measure of breathability. Also, I am able to pitch the tarp a good 5-6" above the ground without additional guylines, which should make the breathability similar to a Tarptent in calmer conditions. If it does provide a similar level of breathability in calmer conditions, then I would consider the Shangri-La 1 a more versatile shelter than a Tarpent (though I really like Henry's deigns and customer support and value his contributions to the lightweight hiking community).

I also find the color less offensive than I was expecting. Online it looks like a sickly green, but in reality its more of a golden brown. I still prefer the 'emergency orange' of my Hex 3, but I suppose the new color blends in a bit better.

Phil Barton BPL Member
PostedFeb 14, 2008 at 8:59 pm

John, do you use adjustable length poles with the Shangri-La? How long are your poles? (My trekking poles are fixed length). I don't see any details about pole length on GoLite's website.
Thanks,
Phil

PostedFeb 14, 2008 at 10:36 pm

Phil,

I haven't had a chance to measure the poles yet, but you'll definitely need adjustable poles for this shelter. I suppose you could add ridgeline tieouts to the outer hoops, and then wrap these around fixed length poles, but I doubt this would be as stable.

I have 3-section poles, and the pole at the foot end is almost completely retracted. I believe the front pole is around 46 inches. I'll give a better measurement after this weekend, when I have a chance to set it up again.

PostedFeb 15, 2008 at 3:12 am

John C.

Congrats on your new toy.
I'm currently using a BS Evolution 2P2DV and have realized it's a bit too much weight and room for just me.
(I bought it because my gf joins me on my outings from time to time.)
I need a lighter, solo shelter and my choices were down to the SMD Lunar Solo E or Tarptent Contrail.
Now I'm interested in the Shangri-La 1 because of your post. :)

How much room is there in the Shangri-La for gear and how small does it pack?

And if anyone knows…
What are the strengths/weaknesses of the Lunar Solo E, Contrail, and Shangri-La 1 ?

I thank you and look forward to your comments.

PostedFeb 15, 2008 at 10:05 am

Chris,

First of all, I think the Lunar Solo E and Contrail are fine shelters. I've also personally met the makers of both those tents and have nothing but the highest respect for their designs and customer service.

I've posted a lot of information, so I will summarize it all here in one sentence: IMO the Lunar and Contrail are excellent low-elevation shelters and good above-treeline shelters, whereas the Shangri-La 1 is an excellent above-treeline shelter and a good low-elevation shelter.

I think the biggest strength of the Lunar and Contrail is their breathability while maintaining very good protection for light weight. This is inherent in their designs, and is a core component of the single wall shelter philosophy. These are also ideal shelters when used in normal hiking conditions (when one hikes high and camps low, seeking areas protected from wind, as per sensible lightweight hiking practice). That said, many users here have successfully used these tarptents in foul weather. I have personally owned a SMD Gatewood Cape and a Tarptent Rainshadow 1.

Others will disagree with me, but I personally feel their weakness is above treeline. Neither the Lunar Solo E or Contrail bring all sides fully to the ground the way the Shangri-La does, so you do have to worry which direction the wind comes from. Where I hike, the wind can easily change direction through the night. Worse than this for me is that I have found very few camp sites where the ideal lay of the land for sleeping is the same as the direction of the wind. Again, it is part of the design philosophy of these tents to keep at least one side raised from the ground, to facilitate air movement within the shelter, and is not necessarily a weakness of the tents themselves. Depends on how you intend to use them.

The Gatewood Cape is the same tarp shape as the Lunar Solo E minus the inner netting and tent. If you read the full Gatewood Cape review on this website, you will read that, when the 30mph wind changed direction at night, Will Rietveld's sleeping bag was hit by wind-blown rain through the night via the awning. Granted, he had pitched the shelter higher than the manufacturer specifies, and you 'can' pitch all sides to the ground. However, I have found it impossible to get a taught pitch this way, and the living space is very small. I'm pretty sure the same would apply to the Lunar Solo E.

This brings me to the other big weakness of the Gatewood; it's to small for large people in shelter mode, but to large for small people in poncho mode. I'm 6'2", and with all sides pitched to the ground, my feet and head are both within inches of the fabric. Any wind blowing the fabric inwards or sliding around at night will cause direct contact with the dew-covered sides. WIth the Lunar Solo E, you should be able to pitch the tarp higher in storms since the bathtub floor and netting will offer some protection from wind-blown rain , but I can't comment on that since I haven't used a Lunar Solo E.

The Contrail, on the other hand, has a more protective awning than the other Tarptents, in that it comes closer to the ground. And it does look like you can get this shelter pretty close to the ground if you had to. My experience has been with a TT Rainshadow, whose awning leaves a large gap between it and the ground. Again, great for ventilation. But one windy evening the wind came through the awning and blew the tarp up like a balloon. It was literally a sail waiting to take off. I had to rely completely on the strength of my stakes and how well I had attached the guyouts to the stakes to keep the shelter from flying away into the night. Of course I was not in a sheltered site as I should have been, and the Rainshadow has significantly more fabric than the Contrail. So I can't say for sure whether this would be an issue in the Contrail, or if this would bother you if this were the case. My big concern with the Contrail is the amount of foot space. Based on the pictures I've seen, I'd think you would need to get a pretty taught pitch to keep the lower fabric from hitting the lower part of your sleeping bag, particularly if wind were bowing the fabric inward. But again, I can't directly comment on this, and there are several users in these forums that swear by the Contrails' storm-worthiness.

The other weakness of the Contrail is also a weakness of the Shangri-La 1, which is the large, unsupported side panels running from the feet to head. This is a lot of fabric that has to deflect wind. The big advantage of the Lunar Solo and other pyramid shelters is that the main support pole is in the very center of the tent, which effectively cuts in half the length of unsupported fabric. This reduces the amount of deflection of the fabric and stress on the guylines in high winds. This will be an area I will be testing with the Shangri-La 1.

There's also the aesthetic advantage of a side entry tent such as the Lunar; you can open the awning and get great views from the shelter. In the front-entry Contrail and Shangri-La, you have to point the front of the shelter towards the views (which is usually downhill, the exact opposite direction you should point the tent!). My solution is to simply remove the front pole of the Shangri La to get bivy-like views, an then put the pole back when I'm ready to zip up for the night. Still, not as nice as the Lunar can provide.

My personal hiking style is to camp high. This adds inherent risks, and requires that I pack more durable gear. But most of my trips are weekenders. For me, spending two days on the trail, but then camping below the treeline, adds little to my wilderness experience; I can usually do the same trip in a very long dayhike and save the hassle of packing up my full backpacking gear. What makes backpacking a worthwhile and unique experience are the great views during sunset and sunrise from above treeline. So I want to be prepared to take advantage of these views. Of course I will descend if lightning is even a remote possibility, and I wouldn't stay up there knowing a major storm was about to blow through. But nor do I want to deprive myself of great views because of a brisk wind because I don't have the right gear (as happened this past summer). Also, many UL hikers rely on their ability to get to a sheltered site in a storm. Well, what if you break you leg in a high pass on a solo trip? I feel more confident knowing I carry gear that will keep me safe at any point of the trip, particularly on solo trips.

This is where the Shangri-La 1 enters into my equation. I want a shelter in which all sides can come completely to the ground. This shelter is made of thicker Silnylon that the Lunar or Contrail. 1.35oz is plenty strong, but 1.76oz is near bombproof, and stretches much less than 1.35oz when wet. Others will disagree, but I simply do not trust the guyouts of the SMD and Tarptent models under sustained, high winds. Read the article "Make Your Own Gear Sewing Primer: Reinforcement Stitches for Lightweight Fabrics" from this website. The Tarptents and SMD tents use straight stitches or bar tacking to attach the guyouts. In both cases they are only sewn to the very bottom hem of the fabric, and visibly pull on the 1.35oz fabric. Both of these are shown to be more prone to tearing out than an X-box stitch. The article demonstrates, by causing all three stitch types to fail, that the X-box stitch is by far the strongest. This is a real weakness of the TT and SMD shelters IMO. The Shangri-La 1 uses the X-box stitch.

Read the GoLite Hex 3 review on this website, and you will see it easily deflected 60 mph sustained winds. The Shangri-La 1 uses the same fabric and guyout technology (I know because I own a Hex 3), but is half a pound lighter. The major difference, of course, is that the Hex is a pyramid shape while the Shangri-La has the long side panels. But these panels are closer to the ground, and the side-guyouts are well-reinforced.

I also like that the tent is completely supported by trekking poles. These are much sturdier than standard tent poles, and should not snap under high winds. Of course the Lunar and Contrail take advantage of this as well.

Another advantage of the Shangri-La is that it can be used with a MLD Serenity Shelter (or possibly a SMD Serenity NetTent) to create a detachable inner nest. With the Lunar and Contrail, if you simply want to take a bug-free afternoon nap, you have to set up the whole tent and try to get it to vent adequately (even my TT Rainbow can get too hot in the afternoon pitched high with the awning open). With one of the Serenity inners, I can just set up the inner net for excellent breathability and views with less setup hassle. This helps offset the Shangri-La being potentially less breathable than the other two tents (discussed below). It also creates a true double-wall tent, keeping your sleeping bag off the sides of the Shangri-La.

The dual peak vents are what allows this to be considered for 3-season use. Understand, however, that several posters on this website (myself included) think the Hex 3 gets too hot in 3-season, below timberline areas. It simply does not allow the cross ventilation you get from the Tarptents. I'm hoping that the dual vents, with one lower than the other, combined with a high pitch (5"-6" is possible without extra guyline), will provide a similar level of breathability as you'd get from a Tarptent. If there are any weaknesses of this tent, I believe they will be issues of breathability in hot, muggy conditions and side deflection of the fabric in high winds. But my hope is that they are not. Only a thorough testing and review will tell for sure, though. It'd be great to see BPL test this tent.

For me, since the weights are basically comparable between the three, I've opted for the Shagri-La 1 for the increased durability of the fabric and guyouts, and for the versatility of the removable inner bug net.

PostedMar 1, 2008 at 6:21 pm

I received my Golite Shangri-La 1 last week and had a chance to test it out over the weekend. In terms of specs, everything is what I had hoped; it's very well constructed, very bombproof design, plenty of headroom (I'm 6'2"), can be pitched high and be quite airy or pitched low for a very storm worthy pitch (I had it in perhaps 15 mph winds in 40 degree temps and, when pitched low to the ground, remained toasty warm inside and blocked most of the wind, but still provided cool whiffs of air from the vents).

My concern involves the pitch. Try as I might, I couldn't get a taught ridgeline. This seems odd, since it would appear to pitch easily; just set it up like a regular catenary-cut tarp and then secure the awnings, but this doesn't seems to work for me. I emailed GoLite for suggested pole lengths and got a very helpful reply from someone who actually uses the tent.

The problem is that, if you pull the ridgeine taught enough to be rigid, you can't really pull the sides out. I've tried lowering the front pole, but there's always some portion of panel that it not taught. I figure if I can find the sweet spot, I can tie cords to the bottom at the proper lengths, to make future pitches easier. But I haven't found the 'sweet spot,' and I'm not sure I want a tarp with this much fuss.

It may be that I just have trouble with tarps in general; I never could get my Gatewood Cape taught, and I even struggled with my Tarptent Rainshadow 1. I'd be curious to hear from GG Spinnshelter users to see if it's just the reality of dealing with fully inclosed shelters, or if it's something else.

I do know this, though. Even when I got the Shangri-La 1 mostly taught, I was able to create considerable collapse of the tent fabric when batting the sides of the tent. It didn't seem that it would deflect high winds very well. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm fully confident it would stay up in high winds, but I'm not sure I'd want to deal with all the heavy flapping. I think my GoLite Hex 3 is more stable in high winds, even though it is taller; a little slack in the sidewalls of the Hex 3 don't cause as much fabric deflection as occurs in the Shangri-La 1.

So I have mixed views about this tent. On paper it's great; a fully-enclosed four-season shelter for the weight of an ID eVent Micro bivy, and would certainly keep me safe and protected. But I don't like the hassle factor. I don't know, maybe it's just me. I guess I need to try setting it up a few more times. Or I could exchange it for a GoLite Ultra 20 quilt at the same 20% off, which is quite tempting at this point.

PostedMay 25, 2008 at 11:37 am

I have just bought the Shangri_La 3 and nest and have problems getting it to pitch nicely.

The pegs are a nightmare and the outer wall seems to sag and sit on the nest liner. Have other people had simliar problems? Can people advise on best pratice for pitching?

Been really disapointed so far after reading excellent reviews.

PostedMay 25, 2008 at 12:28 pm

Silver,

Don't despair! I love my Hex 3 which is essentially the same shelter (older version). The stakes need to be in a pretty darn accurate hexagon for the pitch to be taunt. It does present a chalenge until you work out a geometric sequence. Here's mine.

The Hex 3 is 5 feet from point to point around the perimeter AND, it's also 5 feet from the center of the tent to each point on the perimeter. Using this geometry…

First, set your trekking pole length to 5 feet. OK, mine won't go 5 feet either but, they will go 4'-8" and I eye-ball the last 4".

Place a stake in the ground at the desired center of the tent (you will remove this stake later). Then, lay your trekking pole on the ground with one end touching the center stake and place another stake at the other end of the pole such the stakes are 5' apart (in my case, the pole + 4"). This second stake and all others will be at what will be the perimeter. The line between the center stake and the perimeter stake is one of six radials you will set.

Then, swing the pole approximately 60 degrees (1/6 of a circle), keeping the pole touching the center stake and place another stake, 5 feet away from the center. Now place the pole between the two perimeter stakes and adjust the last one placed, such that they are 5 feet apart (my pole + 4").

Now, repeat the process by going back to the center stake and swinging another 60 degrees from the last radial and place the third perimeter stake. Then, use your trekking pole to check for the 5 feet distance back to the previous stake and adjust the last one placed as necessary.

Continue this process until you come full circle with the first permeter stake placed, then remove the center stake. The tent should go up now with very minor adjustments to fine tune the pitch. With the corners staked first, erect the center pole and adjust the tension with that.

If you don't use trekking poles, then you must have a center support pole for the tent; simply put a piece of electrical tape around the pole at a distance of 5 feet from the end.

You should check your Shangri-La 3 dimensions and make sure they are the same as the Hex 3 and make any necessary adjustments.

There are probably other ways but this works for me. Sort of looks like a rain dance ritual when I come into camp! Ha!

PostedMay 25, 2008 at 2:34 pm

I don't use the nest and maybe you should try it without it to get the hang of pitching it first and then move on to the nest. Here is how I do it:

I start by making sure that all the adjustable guylines are fully extended.

Then I place one stake and then I skip to an opposite guyline. I pull that guyline tight and then move it in towards the center about a foot to create some slack for peak of the tarp and place a stake there. (try to make sure that the guyline is parallel to the seam in the tarp that it connects to)

Then I will place another stake at an adjacent guyline after pulling it to where it looks geometrically correct and parallel to the seams.

At this time (3 stakes in the ground) you should be able to put your center pole in. Extend it up as high as you can get it to go.

Then place all the other stakes as you work your way around the perimeter.

Then just eye it out now. Some of your guylines will be coming off at odd angles until you get good at this. Some of your panels will be sagging as well. Go around and restake those ones so that they are parallel with the seam and pull them outwards so the tarp becomes tight. Keep restaking until it is taughtly pitched and geometrically correct. Also, consider raising the pole higher to create more headroom and tautness.

The final step is to pull on the adjustable guylines to tighten the pitch. This is not always necessary if you get a great pitch off the bat.

I really like to use mine without a pole. I use some cord with the top loop and end up getting ~5' of headroom and plenty of ventilation. It would sleep 4 in a pinch. Awesome!

PostedNov 16, 2010 at 8:13 pm

John,

I know this is an old thread, are you still using this tent?

What are your pros and cons after a couple of years use? (bugs, storms, pitching, etc.)

Eric

brent driggers BPL Member
PostedNov 17, 2010 at 1:28 pm

Eric,
I picked up on this review and the above photo before I was ever a member on BPL and almost didnt get the SL because of it. It was literally the ONLY review out there. I got such a deal that I decided to go ahead and get it. I was not disappointed at all. I used it at least 10 times last winter. My camping experience has been limited to the Smokies but all camps were on either ice or snow with one really good all night sleety rain/snow last year. I eventually had some snow/ice accumulation, but a tap clears the whole side. Only one drawback in my opinion: 1. you need a lot of stakes. (10 to make it really stormworthy)
It IS possible to get it very taught.

sl11

sl12

sl13

PostedNov 17, 2010 at 1:49 pm

I liked my Hut 1(the predecessor)so much that I replaced it with the Gossamer gear Spinnshelter. Same design, but lighter.

A proven good all season design.

PostedNov 17, 2010 at 1:56 pm

I had one but had to send it back. Too short for those over 6ft. Your head touches one pole and your feet the other if you are 6'1". I do like the design, however.

PostedNov 17, 2010 at 2:12 pm

Thanks Dave,

I've heard the complaint about the pole placement from a few and I wonder if it is something specific with only the Shangri-la 1?

Maybe there is more of a difference than what I could see?

I have always been able to angle or place my poles away from the living space in both the Hut 1 and the Spinnshelter. I am 5'11" and always have several inches of space on each end.

brent driggers BPL Member
PostedNov 17, 2010 at 2:16 pm

I am 6'2+ and havent had a problem. I lean the base of the poles towards the ends a few inches. I also lean the front pole a few inches to the side. This isnt really necessary, but gives me a little extra room for my big _ _ _ to climb in/out. My large(77") ridgerest fits between the poles easily and so do I.

PostedNov 17, 2010 at 7:30 pm

I tried it every way. Notably, by angling the poles I did have more room but there was far less stability in the shelter. In any event, I went to an MLD SoloMid – no problem with pole placement!

PostedNov 17, 2010 at 8:34 pm

Thanks for the feedback, it has been hard to find. I think this shelter will be a good move in the "floor less tarp" direction. I like the shape, venting, and that it can be pitched low when the bugs are unexpectedly bad. I am only 5'8" so it should be plenty tall for me.

Eric

Marc Shea BPL Member
PostedNov 18, 2010 at 8:15 am

Like Brent I am 6'2"+ and I have not had a problem with the length of the Shangri-La 1. I also have the accessory bug netting, and it accomodates a 78" x 25" sleeping pad without issue. The only challenge that I have is getting in and out of the shelter when the bug netting is in place. It requires a little contortion to get out the door and weave around the trekking pole. Otherwise I am pretty happy with the system.

PostedNov 18, 2010 at 9:35 am

The measurement between the poles if set vertically is 78". If you are 6'2" you will fit. But your high loft bag certainly won't. My MB SS UL #2 is 84" long.

PostedDec 6, 2010 at 8:38 am

I have a SL2 and it is huge for my wife and I (I'm 5'8" and she is 5'5") Does anyone think the SL1 fit both of us in a pinch?

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