Sewing .67 noseeum

http://www.joann.com/dritz-washaway-wonder-tape-1-4inw-x-10yds/3496254.html?mkwid=S8Ebtt7N|dc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+Sewing&CS_003=12311117&CS_010=%5BProductId%5D&gclid=CjwKEAiAvPGxBRCH3YCgpdbCtmYSJABqHRVwC2fQ30mxrPoaSYMKCKM43wG0cXaKJph2ATdvwTLFahoCsf3w_wcB I haven't tried this yet, but it could be what you're looking for. There are several other similar products.

A common method is to lay the netting out, run tape beside the seams, sew right next to the edge of the tape, and then peel the tape off. This controls or eliminates the stretch. Do NOT sew through the tape: that way lies many madnesses. cheers

What kind of tape would work best?

I am working with masking tape Tape was very useful when cutting the net.

> What kind of tape would work best? You do not want a particularly aggressive adhesive. A tape which can peel off would be good. The problem with *some* masking tapes is that they do not peel off very easily, but other masking tapes do peel off OK (as they should). Also, Scotch invisible tape is designed to peel off fairly easily. If you sew THROUGH the adhesive on the tape, expect all sorts of disasters as the thread and the eye of the needle get seriously gummed up. You have been warned! Cheers

You could also try the iron on bonding stuff and don't sew. If done right, it provides a fairly good bond (provided the fabric doesn't have a DWR coating, or isn't polypropylene or polyethylene based). It seems to be a nylon, since it says "polymide" for the material. What i sometimes do when using it, is to take a piece of parchment baking/cooking paper, and use the iron over it, especially since in the case of mesh, it will stick to the iron. You would have to up the heat a bit to account for the barrier. I would do a test first with a small amount and see how that works. While i've used it on various fabrics, i don't think i've ever used it on mesh. Mesh might not provide enough surface area for a really good bond.

> It seems to be a nylon, since it says "polymide" for the material. Ah – caution there. Polyimide is not polyamide. Nylon is a polyamide, not polyimide. Kapton is a polyimide. However, most polyimide comes as a film or tape, so this may simply be a spelling mistake. Cheers

Thanks guys for the tape suggestion. I'll try that out tomorrow. But how about stitch length? I find that with 6 layers of the .67 a small #1 length is working best, as least as far as keeping the stitches on the underside intact. Seems like the tension is better at about a 2.5. I've dug deep into past BPL threads, but there's surprisingly little on sewing nets with 15d .67 noseeum. Or it's what people used to call nanoseeum.

Yes Roger, it was a spelling mistake. It's polyamide. http://www.joann.com/stitch-witchery-fusible-web-20inw-x-40yds/9814179.html#start=8 The above is one of the many similar products that are sold for this purpose.

I use a #4 stitch length with the netting. My machine is just a cheap singer.All machines are different. Play with some scraps until you find what works.

Jim, With a 70/10 Schmetz needle, I brought the stitch length up to a 2 and brought the tension down to 2 from a 2.5. That seems to be best. Any longer on the length and the stitches don't get completely tight underneath, any lower it just puts more holes into the material. Also, when you say you use a 4 stitch length setting, is that sewing the .67 to silny or sewing layers of the netting to itself? Big difference I find. I can bring the stich length up to a 3 plus sewing the noseeum to silny. I suppose I'll need to go up to a bigger 100/16 needle and bigger thread for the grosgrain tieouts. I dulled and broke some of the smaller 70/10's sewing through it. What's best, X-Box pattern? Double bar tacking?

I stitch several times its entire length then I fold the corners several times. Various stitching thread gives its strength see last 3 pictures