Topic

Repairing my MYOG wind shirt

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PostedJul 13, 2015 at 10:48 am

I made a wind shirt for my recent 3 day Pemi loop trip (hopefully I will have the trip report up soon) from the vuokatti pattern that was posted here a while back. I loved the shirt until the arm seams blew out, I guess from trekking pole movement. I used french seams, I guess I left too little in the allowance to hold. I think that if I just redid the French seam the sleeve would be too tight. I'm thinking I'm going to have to rip out the arm and add a thin strip of fabric so that there is a little more room for the seam allowances. I used Oware's 2nds (love the fabric) so the fabric is inexpensive, but I don't have a lot of free time and that took a while to do. What would you guys do?

Seam rip

Aaron Sorensen BPL Member
PostedJul 13, 2015 at 12:30 pm

Unstitch the sleeve at the arm-pit and make a new sleeve.
Then sew the new sleeve back on.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJul 13, 2015 at 1:00 pm

sew the seam back just to close the hole

then sew a strip on the inside for strength

or iron on tape from fabric store

or use McNett seam grip to strengthen it

when you sew a french seam, sew an extra row of stitches on the inside for back up. That may prevent the row of stitches from ripping out, or if it does, that extra row will take up the slack.

I usually sew an extra extra row too. If you were doing this commercially, it wouldn't make sense because it would take too long. It takes a tiny amount of time compared to fixing a hole later.

PostedJul 13, 2015 at 1:47 pm

Thanks for the answers. I'm gonna try Jerry's idea, and if that doesn't work, I'll remake the sleeves. That's an interesting idea adding an extra row of stitches to the french seam. I have used diygearsupply's French/ flat felled hybrid Bottom of the illustration. Would there be any difference in using that versus two rows in a French seam?

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJul 13, 2015 at 2:02 pm

did you do a flat felled french seam?

that would be better, because you have two rows of stitches equally sharing the load

if you do an extra row on a french seam, it will take no load until the first row starts to give

with a flat felled seam I also often do another row of stitches

is your fabric very loose and susceptible to fraying? That would make it more difficult to get a strong seam

with a regular flat felled seam (sometimes called a faux flat felled seam) you sew the two pieces together, then fold over the raw edges twice and sew them, hiding the raw edges. You can cut a strip off one of the pieces of fabric so you only have to sew through 4 layers rather than 5. That's what I do for seams that require strength, like a tent. I don't see an advantage to doing a flat felled french seam.

with a french seam, the row(s) of stitches are hidden. You see nothing on the outside. You're putting fashion over strength. That's what I do for clothes, just because that's what I've done before if for no other reason. Strength isn't an issue. Having the row of stitches hidden is good for waterproofness.

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