Topic

Best month to climb Colorado peaks?

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PostedJun 14, 2015 at 11:02 am

I've read July-September. I figured July would be the warmest so we went July 24-August 3rd last year, but we showed up during what they called "colorado's monsoon season". Nearly every day had a thunderstorm warning. In talking to the locals, alot of folks suggested later August-Septmber for less chance of Thunderstorms.

What month do you recommend. Will August September be a trade off meaning less thunderstorms more chance of snow/ice?

I've heard its a dry year out west. Does that mean its more likely for perfect July climbing conditions?

Additional Info:
I'm hankering for 13 and 14ers. I also might try out the chicaco basin this year, which will put me out of cell reception/weather reports. I understand that climate might be perfect in RMNP, but terrible on top of Longs. So advice from locals with alpine experience preferred.

I've talked to a couple professional guides that tell me every day's a potential summit day. They said don't be afraid to go up to treeline and evaluate reasonably from there.

Thanks,
Craig

Gary Dunckel BPL Member
PostedJun 14, 2015 at 11:26 am

I'd say the last week of August through the first few weeks of September. Usually there's not much moisture happening then. Usually. Keep in mind that some 14ers will create their own weather. Longs is the perfect example. I look at it from my patio, and it always amazes me. On a clear bluebird day there might be just one cloud in the sky, which would be right over Longs.

As for the west not getting much moisture this year, CO certainly is an exception–we've received maybe 150% of normal year-to-date. Much of the snowpack should be gone by the middle of July though, just in time for the monsoon season.

Randy Martin BPL Member
PostedJun 14, 2015 at 12:04 pm

+1 on Gary's comments. I prefer colder over wetter any day. September is hands down the best month for climbing. October can be a very nice month if we get a couple of weeks of indian summer. Of course September/October bring a little shorter days but it's worth it.

I did the Chicago Basin 14ers over Labor day a few years ago. Still got rain/sleet every afternoon. That area is always wet it seems.

PostedJun 14, 2015 at 12:28 pm

First thank you both for your notes so far.

Thank you especially for mentioning you guys have a Rainy year compared to CA. I won't bank on that drought year then..

Also I know weather varies but you mentioned Oct. What month do you start evaluating for crampons/ice axe again?

Randy Martin BPL Member
PostedJun 14, 2015 at 3:06 pm

Unless you get a big storm early, the snow in October isn't typically too deep and so I just go with gaiters to keep the snow out of my footwear but it's usually too early to worry about alpine gear like Crampons/Ice Axe. Of course each year is a bit different. I would spend some time on the website 14ers.com which is a treasure trove of conditions reports, trip reports and information to help with that sort of planning.

Another weather related piece of information. Colorado snow is very dry and therefore snow climbs are NOT recommended in winter because the snow isn't compact and hard enough to work with crampons very well. Snow climbs utilizing crampons are more of a spring time activity (April/May) once the snowpack has settled a bit and become harder from the freeze thaw cycles.

October you could probably get away with just some warmer footwear and gaiters and some light traction like Katoola Microspikes once above treeline and the windblown ridges.

PostedJun 14, 2015 at 7:57 pm

Randy,

Thanks for explaining the gear to snow condition relationship. i did notice the winter season tends to "start later" but I didn't realize why. I had heard some things about timing with avalanches but that traction vs snowpack logic makes sense.

I'm perfeclty fine going in August/September : ) Its warm outside here in DC, I'm eager to get my climbing season going. I've been more stationary than last spring in the smokies.

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