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Tent sewing question

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PostedJun 6, 2015 at 9:26 am

I'm thinking of trying my hand at sewing my first tent. I've sewn a few small things in the past, but nothing on this scale, and I've been reading lots of things online. I'm planning on a 2 pole mid design, similar to the one in this thread: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=101895

One question I have is about fabric direction. I assume the weave should be straight across on the roof sections. But what about the vestibule panels? Should it be horizontal as well? Or should it be parallel to the seam with the roof? On a design like this, if pitched nice and taut, is it necessary to do a cat cut on the sides? Or would a straight cut work?

Thanks,
Andy

Ben Wortman BPL Member
PostedJun 7, 2015 at 6:59 am

Andy
When I made that tent and all of my other shelters, I paid no attention to what direction the weave was going. I haven't noticed any ill effects of that. Others with more knowledge and attention to detail might not agree. As far as the cat cut, I started out by making the whole tent with no cat cuts at all. When I tried to stand it up I could not get a taught roofline at all. I then took the long seams apart that run from the peaks along the roofline to the base and re-cat cut them. This made all the difference in the world. A nice tight ridgeline and panels.

Let me know if I can answer any other questions. If you would like the google scketchup file I used to design the tent let me know.

Good luck

Ben

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJun 7, 2015 at 7:29 am

There's a small difference between width wise, and length wise on fabric. Better to have all the panels the same, but this is probably not significant.

There's a big difference between length/width wise (along grain), and at an angle (on the bias). Bias stretches a lot more. Better to on ridgelines, have the two pieces the same. So, for your two "beak" panels, have them meet on the bias (along the zipper). Have the other edge be on the grain to match the end pieces.

Where the end pieces join with the back piece, there's probably no solution – back piece on bias, end pieces along grain.

If you just have one peak, then the back piece and end pieces could meet on the bias. A regular mid has all pieces meet on bias.

I would have cat cuts on at least the two rear ridgelines and the zipper. The two front ridgelines don't matter much, at least if you're doing silnylon. The top ridge between the two peaks probably doesn't matter because it's short.

PostedJun 7, 2015 at 9:06 pm

Ben, Thanks much for the input. I may well contact you again as I go along.

Jerry, Thank you too. So the two end panels will have the weave running straight along the panels and the vestibule panels with the weave matching with the weave of the end panels. I'm not sure what you mean by the "back piece". Both sides of the tent have vestibules.

Andy

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJun 8, 2015 at 6:18 am

never mind : ) I though back piece was just one flat piece. Vestibule will be good.

Sean H BPL Member
PostedJun 10, 2015 at 6:10 pm

I've made a tent using two bias approaches for the vestibule panels.

In the original, I had the straight grain of the vestibule panel overhead, meeting the main panels:
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=56641&skip_to_post=477981#477981

In the most recent one, I oriented the vestibule panels to have the straight grain along the outer edge, not overhead:
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=100402&skip_to_post=850353#850353

The verdict for me if I made another:
Align the straight grain overhead (my original approach) with one change: crank up the catenary cut on the outer perimeter edge of the vestibule!

To explain, the original was MUCH easier to sew. Trying to stitch the straight grain against the bias was a major pain, and it accounted for a lot of the sewing time. In addition, the original was easier to set up since you can get the roof seams really tight.

The only downside of my first tent was that the bottom of the vestibule would flop in a light breeze. I corrected this later by recutting the edge to have a larger catenary curve. It worked well enough for me.

PostedJun 12, 2015 at 9:47 pm

Thanks Sean. I was looking at your thread on your silpoly solo tent too. What do you think of the silpoly for the roof?

Sean H BPL Member
PostedJun 17, 2015 at 12:25 pm

It's made w/ silpoly version 1. Sadly I haven't been able to use this tent in a good storm yet, so I'd have to defer to others experiences there. Silpoly 2.0 sounds like it would be ideal.

The floor was made w/ traditional 30d silnylon, since it might be superior to silpoly in terms of abrasion resistance.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJun 17, 2015 at 1:33 pm

I've used thru-hiker Shield silnylon for floor and it's been waterproof. About 1.5 oz/yd2

PostedJun 18, 2015 at 2:27 pm

Thanks for the inputs. Kyle at Ripstopbytheroll said the same thing about the silpoly, that it was designed for tarps and such, and that silnylon would probably be a better choice for the floor.

Now I just need to decide if I want to take the plunge and do this, or if I want to do a tarptent, or a tarp and net-tent, or…. ARGH! Too many choices! :)

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