need advice for floor

I would suggest it's a bad idea.

that fabric is designed for garments, not the abrasion and pressure of ground contact. Reckon it will wet out pretty quickly.

You can make sil less slippy with diluted (white spirit) silicone sealant strips/dots.

That gtx isn't even that light.
Extreme sell a bomber groundsheet fabric at 90gsm, so at half fabric width for solo gs would be less than20g heavier.

I agree. There's not benefit at all to having a floor with a breathable membrane. Its weight for no reason. In fact, in many situations it could just let extra moisture into the tent, leading to extra condensation.

The groundsheet fabric they sell should be good. Here's the link to the one that Mole is talking about:

http://www.extremtextil.de/catalog/Groundsheet-Nylon-PU-coated-90-g-sqm::460.html

Thanks for the heads up
I saw the 90gsm pu fabric and that is another option

I don't want to put coating on the floor too messy and doesn't look professional even with a stencil pattern.

Maybe what I am looking for doesn't really exist.

I love the hexagon fabric used on the exped downmat but no way to get hold of that.

I will keep lookibg .

Thanks

What about the X PAC TX07 that might work as a floor ?

http://www.rockywoods.com/Fabrics-Kits/Ripstop-Nylon-Fabrics/Tent-X-Pac-laminated-ripstop-fabric-Light-Grey

Shield silnylon from thru-hiker.com

It is waterproof. Most other silnylons aren't. According to Richard tests.

I've made floors from Shield, and from regular silnylon, and Shield is better.

Smear some silicone:mineral spirits where you're going to sleep and you won't slide around.

I caved in and bought some PU coated rip stop for floors high tensile nylon,
As I need it UK ideally and quick, will continue to search for the perfect floor,
Just need to work out now how to keep the bath tub walls up :)

pu should work

might be heavier, but not much

might be less waterproof

They make a TX02 Xpac as well (OWF has it under “Misc Fabrics”), which is lighter than the TX07. One side is the raw waterproof layer, I think, so durability could be an issue.

Just need to work out now how to keep the bath tub walls up :)

My bathtub floor is Tyvek, but I think the concept in the photo below would work with any material. In fact, I also made one with polycryo and it worked fine, although I used it only once before deciding it was too slippery for my tastes when sleeping on snow.

The corners are folded like a box corner and small (~4 inches or so) segments of bamboo chopsticks are used for vertical stays. Elastic cords attached to the corners (using some sort of plastic hardware for unclipping) keep the ground sheet in place and the stays positioned properly for the bathtub effect. I've got about 25 nights of use out of this one and it still functions the same.

thanks for the feedback
that is a great idea for the corners will work something out I think like that.

The fabric is arrived and its awesome,
the PU coating is very thick almost rubbery but still at 90gsm which is fine :)

I have decided to put it PU side down after a lot of consideration and trade offs.
as I just dont want to manually coat the ripstop uncoated side to stop it absorbing water.

its pretty cheap so if it wears I will just make another one :)

The long sides are pretty long about 2.6m so I will put some micro bungee cord 2mm through the hem with a central cord lock so I can tension the long side helping it to stand.

Not for the Op, he has his solution, but just to share I found that the trick with coating slippery silnylon floor is to start with a very high dilution (the slurry will look like thin oil) and then apply that with a cloth.
Mind you is your aim is simply to stop sliding about, you only need to put a few stripes on the floor AND on the bottom of your mat.

Gary. Pu itself absorbs water to some extent and can soften. It is also more vulnerable to abrasion than the uncoated side (which may well have a DWR as anyhow) For these reasons I'd suggest it's best to do what seems to be standard practice for tent/bivi manufacturers I have seen – i.e. coating on inside?
You wouldn't wear a jacket or turn a pack inside out….

The long sides are pretty long about 2.6m so I will put some micro bungee cord 2mm through the hem with a central cord lock so I can tension the long side helping it to stand.

That's another good idea, although it might add a little weight unnecessarily. Using 2.5mm shock cord on the corners with very little tension in them (maybe ~1 lb when in position?) the material stands up fine by itself. I thought it would start flopping over with use, but it hasn't. It might be a different story, however, if the material you're using has some stretch to it.

The one thing I'll change next time I make one… the sides will be not quite so tall. Just need enough 'freeboard' to ensure that rain runs under the edges.

Looking forward to seeing your finished product! I am envious of you folks with sewing skills and am sorely tempted to take it up myself.

OK thanks for the advice, coating on inside,

Maybe I will spary the rip stop side with nano coating stuff

Will try it first to see if it coated already,
I have no desire to use silicone or silnylon for the floor I just don't like it for that,
If the pu side is inside then the floor will be like rubber very grippy which is an added benefit :)

I am not totally focused on weight and happy to go a bit heavier no problem if its better performance, within reason.

I have worked out the corners and sides now so will crack on with it this week :)

Oh and take up sewing for sure its just very very handy, made all sorts of things
Only started last year when my wife started to learn, now an hooked. :)