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Could use a little help on a quilt I am making.

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Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
PJ K BPL Member
PostedFeb 27, 2015 at 8:38 pm

So, I've decided to make this quilt: https://kringlelight.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/sin50_guide.pdf

Overall, terrible idea for my second sewing project, I've never sworn so much in my life, but that's another story. I am at step #21 and I am completely lost between here and #24. Can anyone attempt to clarify for me? I can't picture it in my mind or with the fabric in had. Is anyone decent at diagrams or have any pictures?

Second question: I have accidentally made a small slit in the fabric (Argon 67). What would be the best way to patch this? Should I simply cut two small squares and cover the hole on both sides of the fabric?

Thanks for any help.

Bill Giles BPL Member
PostedFeb 28, 2015 at 5:21 pm

Step 21 is just to sew a stitch one inch from each end of the quilt to keep the insulation from moving. A topstitch is just a stitch trough two or more layers of fabric. The one inch of fabric outside the stitch line is called the seam allowance. Step 22 is to trim half of the one inch seam allowance leaving 1/2" outside of the stitch line. I normally leave a 1/2" seam allowance and wouldn't trim it, but the Apex is kind of squirmy when you sew through it, so I think that the wide seam allowance is to try to keep it from bunching. I think that pinning or basting the quilt every three to six inches would be a good idea. Apex wants to slide between the top and bottom fabrics.

Steps 23 and 24 are less clear, but pieces 1, 2 3 and 4 are used to create the drawcord channels for the head and foot ends of the quilt. Pieces 1 and 2 are used to make a drawcord channel for the foot of the quilt, but are not sewn together. Each end gets a 1/2" rolled hem. Google "Rolled Hem". I think that it's a single rolled hem, but see no reason not to use a double rolled hem as long as the finished pieces are 1" shorter than the raw cut pieces. Piece 1 should be 19-1/2" finished length and Piece 2 should be 19" finished length. The finished width of the foot should be 38", so piece 1 and 2 together would be 38-1/2", but with a 1/2" overlap in the center would be 38", the width of the foot of the quilt.

Step 24 is to make a rolled hem on the long edges of piece 1 and 2. If you make a 1/2" rolled hem on both long edges, you will have two pieces 2" wide. Fold these pieces in the center to make a sort of double fold binding. You attach these pieces to the foot of the quilt to make the drawcord channel. There are several ways to sew this to the foot of the quilt. In this case, I think that the simplest way is what he intends to do. This is just to pin both the top and bottom of the drawcord channel over the foot of the quilt and sew through the whole mess. Don't sew the binding tight to the foot of the quilt or there won't be enough room for the drawcord. Leave about 1/2" loose. Confusing? Absolutely. Without pictures, it's really tough to figure out what the author actually intended.

Step 27 is the same as the previous on the head of the quilt, but the opening is not in the center of the drawcord channel. The intention is to sew the ends of the drawcord at the ends of the drawcord channel and to place a loop with a cordlock at the opening in the middle (or one side) of the drawcord channel. It doesn;t have to be this way, but it will work. The drawcord specified is 3/32" shock cord. Be sure to leave some extra for the loop at the cordlock and I would double the ends over before sewing them to the ends of the drawcord channels. I think that I understand how this is supposed to work, but the pictures don't show it very well

Lance M BPL Member
PostedFeb 28, 2015 at 6:31 pm

PJK,
This is my interpretation of steps 21 – 26.

Cross section of completed channel:
Drawstring channel in kringle quilt

Hope this helps.
Edit: agree with Jerry below, there are easier ways to sew the channel.

Bill Giles BPL Member
PostedMar 1, 2015 at 8:22 am

I agree. A good picture is worth two or three thousand words.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedMar 1, 2015 at 8:31 am

I think it's easier to just sew around perimeter through shell fabric/insulation/shell fabric, then cut off some of the insulation, then fold under the inside and outside shell fabric to hide the raw edge, and then sew through outer shell/folded under outer shell/folded under inner shell/inner shell to capture the raw edges.

Aaron Sorensen BPL Member
PostedMar 1, 2015 at 11:10 am

Hate to say it, but your problem started at step 17.

You should have sewn both layers of fabric together inside out with all but about a foot in the middle of the footbox.
Once you turn it inside out (so it's back to the way it should be), you will have no exterior seams except for that 1 foot in the footbox.

You couldn't do this with the way everything was sewn together anyway, so I am of no help to you.
Next time making a stitch a few inches long (other than hand sewing a few spots) will stop everything from stretching.

I just don't understand how you expect this to work at 72" length?
Your feet need an extra 12-14" of length to work with a quilt.
At 5' 10", your quilt will meet your body at about 4' 6" to 4' 7" which will be 5-6" bellow your neck, and that will be with your feet slammed to the bottom of the quilt.

I hope it all works out for you.

Bill Giles BPL Member
PostedMar 3, 2015 at 5:15 am

I have been making another Climashield quilt for myself and have always had problems with fabric slipping in the hems. Trying to sew Climashield on top of the fabric is a nightmare. I have found a solution that works for me. I have a roll of tear off paper backing and tried using it over the Climashield. This worked, but not as well as I would have liked. I finally hit on the idea of folding the backing down the middle and wrapping the hem as I sewed it. This worked very well. The paper backing is rougher than the nylon cover fabric and the feed dogs grip it much better. My stitch length is much more even and the material is much easier to feed through the machine. The paper acts as a temporary edge binding. I want to try using cash register tape and see if that will work as well as the backing paper. If it does, it will be much cheaper. News paper might work, but I'd have to cut a bunch of strips. I use Wonder Clips to hold the paper to the edge of the fabric.

Jake D BPL Member
PostedMar 3, 2015 at 5:01 pm

Getting good use out of my pic these days ;) I sewed mine M90-M90-Apex- newspaper strips
making sure to have the correct sides oriented so it would work out once turned right side out.

I skipped the whole extra channel for my drawcord and just folded over the end a bit. I'm only 5'7 so i wasn't worried about a few inches of length.

quilt

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