TLDR version: What sorts of temperature guidelines do you think a commercial guide service would use to call off a Mount Washington Lions Head attempt?
Hi, we have an upcoming mount washington trip this weekend. Weather looks all over the place, so there's a 50/50 chance we might have to cancel. I want to confirm my "no go" conditions by the group here.
My climbing experience: I'm mostly a 3 season guy. Upto Class 3, 5,500 foot elevation gains plenty of times. I have done this same mountain in July, among others. I'm looking to gain some class 1 winter experience and I couldn't picture a better east coast view/reward than mount Washington.
Current weather "no go" criteria:
Heavy snow
Summit wind >70 mph
temperature -30 F
No visibility criteria. This mountain has high fog year round, but has Cairns almost every 10 feet above.
Current weather forecast: Reports from mount washington observatory, NOAA, weather.com, and google are all varying ALOT. Best reports say summit maybe as warm as 0 F with wind <20mph. Worst report says -50F to -60F with 105 mph gust.
Questions: My climbing partner lives in boston and thinks we would be fine down to -50 F. I don't want to be overly cautious, but I just don't know alot about this range. Is there a general guideline that say a guide service might use for this? When I researched this a month ago, I saw wind guidelines but not a lot for temperature. When I've read moutaineering books, I get concerned about ability to drink water (bottle wrapped in jacket in backpack), loosing control of hands, and of course critical accute hypothermia.
Planned Attire:
Lower:
2 pairs of base layer leggings, Arc'teryx ski pants.
Upper:
Polyester base layer, REI versions of the patagonia R4(heavy fleece), mountain hardwear zonal jacket (light jacket with breathable side vents), Marmot Precip shell
Extras:non-insultated gortex boots,Extra thick Smartwools w/breadbag VBL; Walmart Ski gloves, Beanie hat. REI balaclava with small breathing holess, cheap ski googles.
Waterbottle will have Gatoraid mixed to help lower the Freezing point (salt effect). wrapped in jacket in backpack at first, or inside jacket if I start to see ice in bottle.
In the backpack: Mountain hardware Kelvinator parka.








