Denali Light: The 2009 Attempt

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Over a thousand climbers annually make an attempt to reach the summit of Denali, the highest peak in North America at 20,320 feet. Most of them travel up the popular West Buttress Route (otherwise known as the Washburn Route). For this high altitude glacier trek, climbers really draw on their years of experience backpacking more than technical alpinism skills. After several seasons on the mountain, I am surprised at how quickly lightweight tactics get kicked to the curb on this grueling 13,000-foot ascent. Most climbers on the route barely move under towering packs supporting crushing loads of 75 pounds or more. Sadly, this seems to be the norm... Something you just have to endure if you want a shot at the top of North America.

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Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)

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Dec 8, 2009 at 4:19 pm #1252186

Addie Bedford
BPL Member

@addiebedford
Locale: Montana

Companion forum thread to:

Denali Light: The 2009 Attempt

Dec 8, 2009 at 7:37 pm #1551774

Brandon Sanchez
Member

@dharmabumpkin
Locale: San Gabriel Mtns

This is so inspiring. It doesnt get much more awesome than that!

Dec 8, 2009 at 8:55 pm #1551793

Steven Evans
BPL Member

@steve_evans
Locale: Canada

Awesome article. I wouldn't think a neoair short and blue pad would cut it on Denali, but I guess it does!

Dec 8, 2009 at 9:15 pm #1551797

Sean Thompson
Member

@questtrek
Locale: Michigan

WOW! … Great report. Very inspiring. Wish I could do one day! Thank you …

Dec 8, 2009 at 9:48 pm #1551802

Juston Taul
Spectator

@junction
Locale: Atlanta, GA

Can't wait to do it myself! Congrats on your ascent.

Dec 9, 2009 at 2:44 am #1551839

Dan Healy
Member

@electricpanda
Locale: Queensland

Amazing pictures! tremendous effort! Congratulations to both of you! Really inspiring stuff

Dec 9, 2009 at 5:40 am #1551859

Philip Werner
BPL Member

@earlylite
Locale: White Mountain National Forest

I was also surprised that the neoAir and a foam pad were adequate. Great weight savings. I'm going to try this at the base of Mt. Washington (NH) this weekend.

Dec 9, 2009 at 10:30 am #1551962

nanook ofthenorth
BPL Member

@nanookofthenorth

Hey quick question about your cook setup – looks like you used an XKG w/MSR base and a foam foot pad under that. How did that work out? Was it stable enough for cooking inside the tent on storm days?
Also did you use a heat exchanger with your stove or a PotParka? (http://straightchuter.com/2009/05/expeditions-stove-set-up/) Any thoughts or experience regarding their efficiency?

Dec 9, 2009 at 1:26 pm #1552041

ben wood
Member

@benwood
Locale: flatlands of MO

very nice! congrats! thanks for posting. and thanks for including the gear list, very informative. i would love to do that mountain one day.

Dec 9, 2009 at 7:19 pm #1552141

Charles Hill
Spectator

@chuckster
Locale: Georgia

Looks like an amazing adventure… thanks for the awesome photos!

Dec 11, 2009 at 8:30 am #1552674

Matt Hage
Spectator

@mattagnes
Locale: Alaska

Hey Robert

We did not use a foam pad under the stove for 2009. It will work if used with the MSR stand for the XGK. Just dont use with the wind screen if in the tent as the trapped heat will melt right down thru everything. A heat exchanger would be a good option if that is your plan. It traps the heat higher up, off the floor.

Since our tent was silnylon, we never planned to cook in the Stephenson. We cooked in the open or under our siltarp cover. Stove was attached to the MSR stand and then we use the wide backs of two snow pickets as a base. Works ok.

Never could get the math to justify the weight of a heat exchanger. Wold be best for a larger party, where you could have significant fueul savings and decrease the time melting snow for everyone.

Matt-

Dec 11, 2009 at 9:44 am #1552710

Sam Haraldson
BPL Member

@sharalds
Locale: Gallatin Range

Thanks to Matt and Agnes for a great trip report and superb photos (as always). Given the attention that such a large percentage of the serious community of alpinists gives to going in "alpine" style it surprises me that your attempt at a lightweight attempt was so rare on Denali.

I'd be curious what a survey of gear on parties attempting less-frequented lines around Denali at the same time as you looked like. Guys like Twight, House, Stumps, Backes, et al wouldn't be able to do (have done) what they do without bare-minimum base weights.

Dec 11, 2009 at 7:19 pm #1552900

Matt Hage
Spectator

@mattagnes
Locale: Alaska

Thanks for the kudos Sam. Alpine style definitely has its place on Denali and routes such as the Cassin Ridge, Fathers and Sons Wall or even the West Rib are regularly climbed in that fashion. To spread out the absolute minimum provisions and equipment for the route, and loose a quarter of that. But for us, that's not the preferred style on an international winter camping trek like the West Buttress. We've done much alpine climbing in the Alaska Range and can say that the style is based on seeing how long you can tough it out. Our goal for Denali Light was to keep the experience fun. To establish a realistic base weight for this kind of expedition, with out getting into the Twight-like brutality. ie: We brought sleeping bags for BOTH climbers on the route.

Dec 12, 2009 at 11:00 am #1553040

Matt Lutz
Member

@citystuckhiker
Locale: Midwest

Mega inspiring. Thanks again. When I started (seriously) getting into winter camping last year, I read your gear lists over and over. Thanks again.

Dec 12, 2009 at 1:32 pm #1553080

nanook ofthenorth
BPL Member

@nanookofthenorth

Hi, another quick question – how did you find the amount of insulation that you brought along? Was it enough, too much, or not quite enough?
I noticed that you dropped the micropuff pullovers and was wondering how comfortable you were, also wondering if you thought that over-boots were necessary for you or just a nice accessory?

Dec 13, 2009 at 4:25 pm #1553385

R B Rhinesmith
BPL Member

@rhinebr
Locale: Rocky Mts

I am planning an attempt of Denali this June and have been comparing pack lists from many of the guiding companies. After becoming a recent convert to ultralight backpacking on through trails (e.g. Colorado Trail), I wondered if anyone had taken a hard look at how to reduce pack weights on winter mountaineering trips like Denali. You have provided a thoughtful approach to this type of expedition that reduces the weight without compromising the experience. Thanks for sharing your insights.

I noticed that you both carried ropes and wonder if you felt this was necessary? Also, I am also interested in your thoughts on over-boots that was mentioned in a previous comment.

Thanks again.

Dec 13, 2009 at 4:45 pm #1553388

R B Rhinesmith
BPL Member

@rhinebr
Locale: Rocky Mts

I also meant to ask if you would do a follow-up article on the meal plan. I liked your overall approach and would enjoy learning about specific items that you enjoyed on the trip.

Dec 17, 2009 at 6:34 am #1554724

Carol Crooker
BPL Member

@cmcrooker
Locale: Desert Southwest, USA

Congratulations Matt and Agnes!
You make it seem almost easy :)

Dec 17, 2009 at 4:31 pm #1554992

Matt Hage
Spectator

@mattagnes
Locale: Alaska

Sorry for the confusion. We carried one 8mm rope. The gear list might reflect that it is coiled rescue style for two climbers.

Dec 24, 2009 at 9:26 am #1556647

Gerald Miller
BPL Member

@colnagospud
Locale: Northern California

…for sharing…wishing you a merry christmas and dreams of your next adventure……
gerry

Dec 25, 2009 at 4:56 pm #1556943

Matt Lutz
Member

@citystuckhiker
Locale: Midwest

On the tarp: I take it you choose the flat tarp instead of a curved because you could put the edges to the ground? I have an ID MK1 and I'm thinking about using an Oware CatTarp 2 very similar to how you used your porch. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Mar 6, 2010 at 10:03 am #1582796

Sieto van der Heide
Member

@sieto
Locale: The Netherlands

Sorry to post in an older thread… I saw the NeoAir in your list and was wondering how it performed on Denali. Did it provide enough insulation? Dit you have any problems with it, for instance, would it deflate during the night?
Thanks for your reply!
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