Hiking Hells Canyon Rim to Rim

Not a trip I'd want to do in July! I realize you were waiting for the water to go down to packraft across, but the bottom–or even the middle–of the canyon is truly hell in hot weather!

Interestingly, the Nez Perce tribe crossed the Snake at flood stage during their historic march….

Great article David. Love how you candidly delved into the difficult topic of group dynamics.

And a great trip. I was quite impressed with Hells Canyon when I went this past November. All the trails we hiked not right along the river were faint enough to provide quite the good sense of adventure. Add our second packraft crossing (at dusk, with two people in a Yak) back to Pittsburgh Bar and we got a truly grand adventure.

I have this half-baked idea to go back in mid-April and do your route as an out and back from the other side. Fat bike and ski to the Seven Devils TH, ski down into the canyon, packraft crossing, tag Hat Point, then flip it all. Like I said, thoroughly undercooked.

And Nicholas (and everyone): do these trips, write 'em up, and pitch it to Addie. The more diversity of perspectives, styles and locales the better.

Greener than most photos I've seen posted from trips at this locale. Thanks.

With quality writing reminiscent of E. M. Forster, how could this not be a classic? Thanks for a beautiful and challenging trail report.

I did this trip myself – solo – many years ago. I really stressed about the river crossing. My first night's camp was at the river on the upstream end of Johnson Bar. During the night the river dropped at lease six vertical feet – maybe eight! I loaded my pack into a garbage bag and enjoyed a very gentle, warm, swim in the morning sun. It was fabulous! The climb out of the canyon to Windy Saddle took 1.5 days. The whole hike was very dry, and this was in the day before quality water filtering products, so I was a little nervous. I loved the journey!
Thank you!

Thank you all for the interest and the comments. It was a great experience–being able to share it with fellow BPL folks makes it that much better.

Mary: For July, the canyon bottom that week in July wasn't *too* bad. Last year was such a big snow year, the problem with going much earlier would have been access to the rims. If I recall correctly, the roads to Hat Point and Windy Saddle were still closed well into June. Really, Sept-early Oct would be ideal, but Nathan and I both teach, so it's tough to get a stretch of days off in the fall.

Michael: I'm just across the state line from Pullman, in Moscow. Good to know there'll be an BPL guy in the area.

David: I'd been wondering how your November trip went. Mid-April sounds interesting, and adventurous. I'd guess a person could get a ways up the road to Windy Saddle at the point, then use the bike hoping most of the rest would be clear-ish, just too many lingering drifts to drive? My understanding is, we're at something less than normal snow pack–might be a good year to try it.

Alfred: Wow–that's a big drop overnight. I would guess the drop overnight when we camped at Bernard Creek was only a foot or two. My guess is last year there was still enough flow upstream of the dams that Idaho Power didn't have to cut off the downstream flow as much to store flow for the next day's power production. We didn't get as far downstream this trip as Johnson Bar, but I couldn't have imagined swimming.

With regard to group dynamics: I've always got a lot out of articles that offered a candid look at successes *and* struggles of a hike, more so than accounts of things going perfectly. As I wrote, no way I could have done this (especially first time on the route) without a partner, and no way the dynamics could have resolved successfully unless that partner was someone as straightforward as Nathan. I look forward to many more hikes together.

Again, thank you all for reading and commenting.

On the Oregon side, the Freezeout trailhead is open much earlier in the year. Friends of mine hiked it last spring–one went in late March and the other in mid-April. There was a little snow on the saddle in March, but nothing serious. Each took the "High Trail" (which contours part-way down the canyon) north and the riverbank trail back, then the Saddle Creek trail back to the top. This makes a wonderful long loop for those physically able to do it. According to those who have done it, spring is the best time.

"Here in Colorado, 11 miles with 2300' elevation gain is a gentle hike, even with packs, water and food. Not impressed. Try the Colorado Trail, particularly sections 19 – 24, for some serious elevation gain."

I didn't notice it was some sort of contest. Also keep in mind that there were sections with no trails. I do a lot of hiking in these kinds of conditions where you measure progress in hours per mile.

It looks like a great hike, my kind of adventure. Thanks for the report, David.