Why do we need to use Lineloc's?

[Paul Hatfield]

Polyester webbing is available from many manufacturers.

It’s certainly my opinion that LineLoc’s don’t belong on shelters as LineLocs are too prone to failure/damage while offering negligible weight savings over ladder locks.

For peak tie-outs not vital to the setup to the shelter, I prefer to see a just a metal D-ring. A D-ring is extremely versatile, allowing me to use my preferred tensioning method and eliminates durability concerns.

[solitone]

For the past year or so I have been using Skurka’s system and it works exceptionally well for me. I keep the lineloks in place mostly so I can sell the tent easier if I decide to do so.

How can you use Skurka’s system while keeping linelocks in place?

[Matthew / BPL]

I’m guessing the line is tied through the grosgrain/webbing the lineloc is attached to or you could tie through the hole on the lineloc.

[Sam Farrington]

Paul H,

That has been my experience also.  Thank you for posting the details.

[Rex Sanders]

Clamcleats might be better for shelter guylines than Linelocs.

The Clamcleat CL266 Mini Line-Lok (confusingly similar name) works on 1 mm to 2.5 mm line, and weighs 0.74 grams. It has a maximum working load of 22 pounds (10 kg), about the weight of 10 liters of water. Adjustable while wearing gloves.

Many other sizes and working loads available; the CL260 is better for more extreme conditions.

Hard to find in the U.S.; Litesmith carries the CL266:
https://www.litesmith.com/line-lok-guyline-adjusters/

Fisheries Supply carries the CL266 and CL260:
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sea-dog-line-clamcleat-line-lok

No experience yet, but Roger swore by them in 2020:

https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/lineloc-alternative/

including a workaround for the loop problem.

— Rex

TrailSpace CL266 review
https://www.trailspace.com/gear/other/clamcleat-line-lok/

Clamcleat demonstration on a much larger model for clarity

[Ron Bell / MLD]

Over the last 15+ yrs that we’ve used LL3 on shelters, we’ve never had a customer contact us for a broken  or wornout linelock or slipping using our 2.7mm cord.  I’m not saying one never got stepped on and broke,  just that we’ve never directly been contacted for a fix. That is easily  250,000+ LL3’s on just our shelters out there. When I think about it it’s farily incredible and almost unbelievable.   Any problems (using proper size cord) would have to be extremely tiny. If you want to save an ounce, enjoy using knots or other type mini linelocks then easy to cut’em off.

FYI: Cord measures are different between manufacturers. One cord companies 2.5mm is anothers 2.7 mm is anothers 3mm  – not even getting into the variances on cord sheath friction properties and how it works in the various type linelocks. Disclaimer: I do not have a degree in cord hyper friction multi material meta testing ;-)  If you use the wrong cord type/size/sheath material don’t blame the linelock.

[R L]

Personally, having run the gamut, I’m back to liking LL3’s.  Back one up with a slippery half hitch and it’s all good.  I keep each shelters cord length and number of, at my comfort level.  I also carry some extra for whatever field use reason.  Paralleling the recent thread about storm proofing is one example.  ymmv

[JCH]

I added LL3s to every UL shelter I have owned over the past 10 years and have been happy with them.  No failures, no issues.

Having recently taken possession of a Durston 2P Pro, I was immediately unhappy with the small factory Line Lock Lights.  I found that the 2 ends of the cord easily got twisted on the underside of the linelok which effectively froze the system.  IMO, both of the “small” line locks…Line Lock Vs (1.13 g*) and Line Lock Lights (1.07 g*)…sacrifice functionality for no tangible weight savings.  I have replaced them all with LL3s (1.13 g*) and everything works smoothly and beautifully.  Plus, the LL3s are easy to operate with cold hands and/or gloves, something that cannot be said about the smaller alternatives.

I’m with Mr. Bell…LL3s are a system that works reliably.

*weights quoted from DutchWareGear website

[jscott]

I attach linelocs to the body of the tent, not down at the stake point. That makes a world of difference. It’s very easy to get a taut pitch with this method; or tighten a sagging tent wall.

As to “magical thinking”…I’ve also never had a failure with linelocs over fifteen years or so since I discovered them. And magic had nothing to do with this. Others who use them seem to agree.

Tying knots in cold conditions is a bummer. Moreover, I’m clumsy with my fingers. Tent lines tend to be thin, relatively speaking. Who wants to manipulate thin cordage when it’s cold and raining? Still, kudos to those who are good with knots. Have at it!

[bradmacmt]

Clamcleats might be better for shelter guylines than Linelocs.

These are what Big Agnes provides with their tents – or at least something remarkably similar. They do work.

[R L]

MLD’s 1.5 Pro Guyline kit works well.

[BlackHatGuy]

I’ve got a bunch of those clamcleats I don’t need, anyone want ’em for shipping? (A bunch means about a dozen)

[Bonzo]

I’ve got a bunch of those clamcleats I don’t need, anyone want ’em for shipping? (A bunch means about a dozen)

I’ll take them.  PM incoming.

[Eric Blanche]

Clamcleats work well if you insist on no knots and the smallest cord.

I personally use LL3 and MLD cord for the critical four points of the custom mids I build. Smaller cord uses lineloc light (variation), and then optional guyout points use smallest cord and tautline hitches w/o hardware. IMO, LL3 work well and are worth the convenience for critical points.

[Eric Blumensaadt]

I like ’em and all my Tarptent’s come with them. So far no breakage and all hold well.

I’ll be putting 4 of them on my TT Notch LI if I decide to add side wall guy lines for heavy winds.

I’ll use circles of Tenacious Tape, one layer inside and two layers outside with the LineLoc sewn ONLY to the Tenacious Tape circles.

[Author]

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