I sewed insulation to the lining. And I assembled all the pieces of lining/insulation to each other, and then all the pieces of shell to each other, so that I had essentially two jackets, and then sewed those together only at the cuffs, the bottom, the front zip, and around the face opening for the hood. So there are no sewn through seams anywhere on the body of the garment or in the hood. Another tip is that I found I had to be very careful not to stretch the insulation when laying out the pieces, because then you can end up with pieces of insulation that are smaller than your pieces of fabric, and that is not good because they will return to that smaller size after you sew them to the fabric. better to have the insulation pieces a little bigger than the fabric rather than the other way around.