MYOG Membrane7 Karo step down quilts

[Eric Blanche]

I recently completed a pair of karo step baffled down quilts and thought I would show a few pics of the process and finished products.

Specs:

Blue/Blue ~22-26*, 12oz 950fp, Total weight 16.5oz – 50x72x38

White/Blue ~20*, 12.5oz 950fp, Total weight 17.1oz – 50x72x38

Summary of build:

Design and create full size pattern.

Trace pattern onto both pieces of quilt (shell/liner, top/bottom).

Cut out pattern. Cut out baffles.

Start sewing baffles to wrong side of shell (the side facing the down inside).

Sew other side of baffles to corresponding location on the wrong side of the liner.

Hem both sides down to the bottom. Create exit holes for shock cord footbox (best create exit holes at the top as well) and Hem the bottom drawcord enclosure.

Install/finish off shock cord. Prepare and install snaps/velcro/zipper.

Stuff the down you previously calculated. Sew top hem and draft tube (optional).

Install shock cord and finish off the ends with a snap closure.

And ya done!

 

As always, feel free to ask any questions!

[CHIMAY]

Great work!
I saw your Instagram:)
I’ve been trying to make a 20 ° F quilt at ~ 1lbs recently.
Thank you for your very helpful post!

Wouldn’t it be cramped with a 50-inch shoulder width?
I’m 5’8 “but I’m planning on a 52” shoulder width and a 39 “foot width.
I’m going to use a 7D shell and the 1,000fps I have.

Thank you!

[Eric Blanche]

Jiro, thank you so much!

The 50inch width works plenty for myself. I find that I usually will be tucking at least 2-4in of each side underneath me. This somewhat depends on how you use the quilt though. If you use pad attachment straps (I do not but they are installed onto each quilt) then you don’t need to tuck anything underneath to eliminate drafts. So, yes, I think 50 inches is plenty as long as you are on the thinner/smaller side. I’m 5’6″ and wear a size small generally for a quick reference.

 

What size shoe do you wear? If anything, I would increase the size of the footbox width. Again, 38″ works for my size 9 shoe but anything larger I would up to at least 40.”

 

For your reference, the shell weight of the 7d with my specs is 116g. That includes everything minus the down, the top 1/16 shock cord, single kam snap, 5.5″ grosgrain, draft tube, and thread to sew the top channel shut. Very minimal additional weight. AND the draft tube when filled weighs 136grams. Draft collars…love em or hate em!

 

I think your goal is certainly attainable with you using 1000fp! Be sure to post results when completed.

 

[CHIMAY]

Erik,thank you for the detailed information!
Quilt DIY is not common in my country (Japan), so I was hungry for practical information like you showed me! lol
Thank you for displaying the numbers such as the weight of the shell.

My foot are a little small and I’m wearing 8us.
Now, according to your advice, if set the shoulder width to 50 “and the foot width to 37” to 38 “, it seems that I can make it a little lighter.

I’m planning a full-tapered design this time, but I’m a little worried that the width around the waist may be insufficient.

I’m a side sleeper, but I don’t use pad attachments.
When it’s a little chilly, I like being able to adjust the draft when it’s overheated.
In the colder months, wrap the quilt in sol bivy with pad.

I also made one with a draft collar for midwinter, but it’s highly metabolized and I don’t think it’s needed up to 20 ° F.

I haven’t participated in BPL yet, so I’m curious about how to post photos, but I’d like to post when completed!

Thank you!

[Author]

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