My summer in Rondane, Dovre and Jotunheimen, Norway
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I don’t think I had any idea what I’ve gotten myself into when I first started hiking in the mountains last year – the joy, the peace, the solitude. Being a southerner I’ve never been to the mountains; always hiking below treeline, joining friends and family on hikes through the forests of the lowlands. The mountains were something entirely different – open landscape with views you could only dream of. This year I’ve spent most of my vacation days in Dovre, Rondane and Jotunheimen National Parks.
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Dovre and Rondane National Parks – July 2016</span>After having a rough start of the year, this trip was necessary to maintain my sanity. I planed a 3-day hike from Hjerkinn in Dovre to Rondvassbu in Ronane. At Rondvassbu I wanted to take a day to hike up to one of the 2k meter tops before traveling home. This was my first trip:
Route: Hjerkinn – Grimsdalshytta – Dørålseter – Rondvassbu – Spranget
Length: 55.8 km (34.7 miles)
Ascent: 2323 m (7621 ft) / Descent: 2264 m (7428 ft)
<span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>Day 1:</span> Oslo – Hjerkinn – Grimsdalshytta
I started my day early, taking the 8am train from Oslo. It was around 12.30 pm by the time I arrived at Hjerkinn train station, at the southern edge of Dovre National Park. This first stretch of the hike was to be the easiest (and the wettest) with 18 km of gentle ascents and steep descents.
Crossing roads to get to Hageseter
The river Gautåe
Looking back toward the trail to Hjerkinn
The descent to Grimsdalshytta (Grimsdalen Hut)<span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>Day 2:</span> Grimsdalshytta – Dørålseter – Rondvassbu
Waking up at 6am to cow and sheep crossing the campsite was not ideal, but it got me up for an early start on the trail. I initially planned on stopping at Dørålseter, but as I arrived there at 2 pm, I decided to do the last stretch to Rondvassbu… at some point I regretted that decision quite intensely… 32.5 km (20.2 miles) in total. Anyway, waking up to the sun shining got me into a very good mood, almost made me ignore the annoying cows.
My campsite in Grimsdalen (Grimse Vally)Grimsdalen lies below treeline at ~925 m (3035 ft) and the trail ascending up above treeline was one of the most beautiful parts. You walk across a small plateau before descending into Haverdalen (Haver Vally).
Grimsdalshytta in the background
The trail up from Grimsdalen, maked with red T’s by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT)
At the edge of the plateau looking across Haverdalen and toward Dørålsglupen. At the right side of the photo you can see a small river running down the side of the mountain. On the right side of the river is the trail up towards the pass below Stygghøin (roughly translated to “ugly top”, maybe someone was a bit tired when reaching the top :P).
The trails in national parks are clearly marked with signs and red T’s…
The bridge across Haverdalsåe at the bottom of Haverdalen
Ascending toward Dørålsglupen from Haverdalen
Looking back toward Haverdalen and the plateau, and YAY! Scree…
I remember almost getting emotional when seeing the peak after a tiring ascent and crossing this scree in Dørålsglupen. At the edge of this pass is a short descent to Dørlålseter (hut), where I decided to continue on towards what would become an 7 hour extra hike to Rondvassbu (hut).
Welcome to Rondane National Park! This lies just a short walk from Dørålseter (hut) and is usually called “The Gate to Rondane”. This is my last photo before reaching Rondvassbu (I forget to take photos when I’m that exhausted :P), but most of this trail was easy even if it was long. What pushed me towards exhaustion was the last climb up Rondhalsen (400 m ascent, 20-30 % incline), but after 12-13 hours of hiking I reached Rondvassbu:
Rondvassbu hut
This is taken at the southern end of Rondvatnet (Rond lake). I came down from Rondhalsen (the top on the left side of the lake). Both of the photos are taken the next day, too exhausted to do anything but eat and sleep.
The campsite in the land of tunnel tents!<span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>Day 3-5:</span> Storronden, Rest day and the road home…
The next day I hiked up to Storronden 2138 m/7014 ft tall, which was my first 2k peak!
The view from Storronden looking toward Jotunheimen in the horizon.After a much needed day of rest I walked the short distance to Spranget where the bus would take me to the train station in Otta.
Bye Rondvassbu!Ah, the views….
Taken at Spranget toward Rondane and Rondvassbu.I’ll post my trips to Jotunheimen soon!
Jotunheimen National Park – Home of the Giants
Compared to Rondane and Dovre, Jotunheimen is much more alpine (especially in the west), being the area in Northern Europe with the tallest peaks.
This is going to be a short visual report of my three trips to Jotunheimen this year. In August I spent a week in Jotunheimen with a few friends. We rented a hut near Maurvangen at the South-East edge of the National Park. In the beginning and end of September I spent a weekend in the same area with some coworkers.
Looking towards Gjendealpene
Looking toward Gjendealpene with the small peaks Gjendehøe and Knutshøe in the foreground.
Beautiful Gjende (lake)
The river Sjoa which runs from Gjende
Looking towards Leirungsdalen (vally) and some of the 2k peaks we hiked up a couple of days later. I think from left to right it’s Munken (the monk), Mugna and the three peaks of Kalvhøgde.
Hiking and scrambling up our first peak from Torfinnsbu hut, Nørdre Kalvehølotinden (2019 m/6624 ft). We’re halfway there at this point. This is definitely not a T-marked trail, but finding the right path was easier than we thought. The lake at the bottom is Bygdin and the massive peak ahead is Torfinnstind (wear a helmet hiking up this one! :P)On our way towards the next peak (Midtre Kalvehøgde) looking back toward Nørdre Kalvehølotinden. The tiny black spots on the snow to the left are raindeerThis is taken at Mugna (2159 m/7083 ft) toward Leirungsdalen (vally) with the glacier Leirungsbrean below and the small lake Leirungtjønnin.
Looking toward Knutshøe, the non-snow covered small peak. The trip over Knutshøe takes about 5 hours with just a couple of scrambling point. The whole area is stunning!
The trail towards Knutshøe
At the foot of Knutshøe
From Knutshøe looking towards what I believe is the peak Høgdebrotet
The beautiful Leirungsdalen
Knutshøe, looking back at the trailAt the bottom of Knutshøe, with the lake Gjende on the right sideThe lake Bygdin and the start of the trail up to Bitihorn
On top of Bitihorn
Fall has come to Jotunheimen. This was taken near Gjendebu hut at the end of the lake Gjende.
The river Storåe which runs through the vally Storådalen. The peak on the left side is Gjendetunga (Gjende tongue)
On our way towards the peak Knutsholstinden, walking into the vally Svartdalen. Yeah, it’s gonna be a foggy day!
Quick take a photo before the fog comes! On our way up Knutsholstinden (2341 m/7680 ft). I’ve never been as exhausted as I was on this trip, using all my willpower to get to the top though I just wanted to lay down an cry :P It was foggy on the top… BUT! On the next day I got a shot on the peak from the other side of Gjende lake:
Hiking over Bukkelægret. Knutsholstinden is the peak on the left side with a glacier underneath the two peaks.
From Bukkelægret with the lake Gjende
Last stretch of the trail Bukkelægret with the hut Memurubu at the bottom. The peak in the clouds is Besshøe and just below is the tourist trap Besseggen.
I’ll see you next year Surtningssue (peak)!! This peak has supposedly the best views of Jotunheimen.
Crossing roads to get to Hageseter
On our way towards the next peak (Midtre Kalvehøgde) looking back toward Nørdre Kalvehølotinden. The tiny black spots on the snow to the left are raindeer
This is taken at Mugna (2159 m/7083 ft) toward Leirungsdalen (vally) with the glacier Leirungsbrean below and the small lake Leirungtjønnin.
At the bottom of Knutshøe, with the lake Gjende on the right side
The lake Bygdin and the start of the trail up to Bitihorn
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