Can I shorten a Nemo Tensor inflatable pad?

[Moab Randy]

Hi all,

After reading BPL reviews, I’m thinking of buying a Nemo Tensor inflatable pad (https://www.moosejaw.com/product/nemo-tensor-sleeping-pad_10409840) in the wide rectangular uninsulated version. No one seems to make the rectangular wide short pad I want (I use my pack under my feet).

Any opinions on how feasible it would be to cut the regular Tensor length down to save about 5 ounces off of the 16, and what the best method would be?

Cut it open, seal a couple of inches of the inside surfaces with Aquaseal, let dry, fold a couple of times with sealant on surfaces? or ??? (Attached is a diagram of internal structure of one with insulation.)

Most importantly, would I still be able to inflate the pad, or does the internal design depend on having the bottom open/intact?

It would be brave, and could be an expensive failure. . . .

Thanks.

[Eric Blanche]

I would def try to heat seal it with an iron before the adhesive method. Would be a lot cleaner and save weight. Works perfectly for the x-lites but not sure on the material specs for the tensor.

 

Here is a nice detailed thread on the process for NeoAir pads: https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/shortening-a-thermarest-neoair/

[Moab Randy]

Thank you, Eric. I hadn’t thought about this. I guess success will depend upon whether the Nemo is like a NeoAir in that the inside surfaces of the fabric have that hot-melt glue.

Has anyone seen an ultralight pad for which this would not work?

[Eric Blanche]

Looks like several reports of people over on Reddit who successfully cut down their Nemo Tensor pads. Good luck and be sure to post pics/results!

[Moab Randy]

Success!

I bought an insulated wide long at an REI garage sale for less than half price and tackled it pretty much just as others on the web do Thermarests etc.

I cut it down the middle of the 20th inflatable section, to leave enough room on each side to seal up both pieces without running up against the baffles, which will interfere. I trimmed away the interior mylar and white polyester scrim, including trimming around the corners, so they could be rounded.

I marked a line just beyond the line of non-sealable fabric that helps make up the baffles, and clamped a straightedge along it. I set my iron to max and worked it carefully from the inside to the outer edge. The heat-set fabric layers bonded immediately. My biggest difficulty was in avoiding air bubbles, which might cause a leak if you trim the seam shorter. Start from the inside and work outward.

The 19 inflated sections produced an inflated pad 49-1/2″ x 25″ and weighing about 13.8 oz. I figured that if I were to go shorter than that, my knees or elbows would fall off, and I would only lose around .75 ounce per section cut off.

I also concluded it is not practical to taper the pad because the non-sealable baffles will interfere.

Now I just need to figure out how to make some valve for the leftover end, to make a sit pad. I’ll experiment to try to find a way to bond a valve from an old vinyl pool toy. Any ideas?

 

[Carlo]

Has anyone tried heat PLUS seam sealer? i’m wondering if there’s any benefit to the “overkill? I’ve tried the trim and reseal with an old tensor that had a leak that i couldn’t find let alone fix. Combo of i heard that they don’t repair they just ask you to destroy before giving you a new one and wanting a wide pad let me to have a ‘test subject’. The worked and it holds air, but i’m still wondering about spreading a thin layer of seam sealer, carefully putting the edges together and then running an iron. I’ve had two of these pads develop leaks so given that i’m thinking any form of insurance for any potential issue (w/out substantial weight penalty, etc.) is worth it. think i’ll try this with the one i used to experiment but also wanted to check the wisdom of the BPL masses… is there any downside to using seam sealer in addition to an iron?

thx

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