Big Sur, Questions Regarding Cone Peak Loop

[Kenneth Keating]

I’m planning to do my first hike in Big Sur the weekend of April 22.  We’ll be starting at the Kirk Creek Trailhead hiking 10 miles via the Kirk Creek and Stone Ridge trails and spending the night at Goat Camp.  The next day we’ll hiking to Cone Peak via the Gamboa Trail, then back to the Kirk Creek trail head via Coast Peak Road, Vicente Flat and Kirk creek Trails, so about 15 miles.

I have a couple of questions.  If we arrive at Goat Camp and the camp is full, are there plenty of other places within say a mile or two to camp?  Also, is this a reasonable trip for in-shape first time backpackers?  I’m taking my daughter and friend, both in their mid-twenties.  My daughter’s never been backpacking, but she’s in good shape.  I want to make sure it’s a fun trip and not a death march.  Any comments or recommendations including other possible routes would be appreciated.

[Bri W]

That’s so funny! My brother and I are doing the same trip on the 25th, but adding a third night for some Ventana Wilderness exploring. Neither of us has done the trip before, but from my research I’m expecting a moderately difficult hike and I expect to pack a lot of water on the day we summit Cone Peak because there is no water in that area and the weather will probably be hot. Have fun!

[Bruce Tolley]

I cannot comment on those trails except to say check the elevation profiles. I have done some loops from the Hunter Liggett Mil Reservation side around Junipero Serra Peak. On the plus side, the wildflowers should be the best in many many years.  On the minus side, we are moving into deer tick season and the further inland you go,the drier it will get. Many of the Ventana Wilderness trails have brush growing over them so wear long trousers. Enjoy.

[Kenneth Keating]

Bri:  If you show up at the trail head and there’s a brown GMC truck still there, please contact the rangers as we’ve probably gotten lost! Lol.

Bruce:  Have you driven the Nacimiento-Furgusson Road?  If so, how’s the route from King City?  We plan on spending the night there and then heading out early Saturday morning via the NF road to the trailhead.

By the Google Earth profiles and route metrics provided by http://bigsurtrailmap.net/route_metrics.html it looks like it’ll be a moderately difficult route. I was at the trailhead on Monday, and the route looks stunning right now.  Everything is green and in full bloom. It should be a fun trip.

[Bruce Tolley]

Kenneth

I have driven the N-F road from 1 up to the turn off to Cone Peak. It is paved and climbs and is a bit curvy and then up the Cone Peak Rd. You can see the southern most reach of the Coast Redwoods, with small groves clinging to the sides of canyons. Pretty awesome. The Cone Peak Rd is not paved and has a couple of streams that cross it in places.  Given the recent rains, I am not sure what the condition might be. There is often a sign that says road closed at the entrance. There are a few places to turn around.

From 101,I have been on the N-F road to the Del Ventura turnoff for the Military Reservation and it is pretty straight, following a couple of different valleys and passing through cattle ranches. It is like getting into a time machine IMO and going back 50 to 70 years in history.

I have not been on the N-F road between Del Ventura and Cone Peak turn offs. You should be OK if you take it slow.  The Ventana station rangers might know if there are any problems along the road like washouts. NOTE coming South from San Jose there are signs from 101 for the Arroyo Seco Road, but it is definitely closed for passage due to rock and mud slides that were never cleared.

If you do get inspired to enter the Military Reservation, if the guard stations are open, they can ask for photo IDs of everyone in the vehicle.  I have been in there three or four times and this has never happened but then I have never been there during maneuvers. There is also a motel at the base you can book online.

 

[Bri W]

Am I going to need a map and compass for this route, or is it well marked?

[Bruce Tolley]

 

I have driven to the Cone Peak trailhead a couple of times to hike to the fire look out and often seen backpackers ascending from the Kirk Creek TH at the ocean. So the initial part of trail gets use and should be visible. There there might be posted trip reports that would tell you more about the trail conditions. I do not know this specific route but I suspect like many of the trails in the Ventana Wilderness, many of the junctions have no signs or the signs are down. (This lack of maintenance is the result of federal budget cuts decades ago.) The trails are usually signed where they cross one of the US National Forest Service roads. Also at least around Junipero Serra Peak, there is a lot of game and therefore many heavily worn game trails and you have to look at your map closely to figure out the right trail and not follow the boot marks of the last fool who followed the path of the deer and elk. The map would also tell you where the streams and springs are. So yes, if it were me, I would bring a map and compass.

[Lori P]

The trail to Vicente Flat is heavily used, and there are many campsites at Vicente. The trails beyond Vicente will be in varying states — trails in Ventana tend to degrade rapidly due to erosion and deadfall that happens constantly. You should be prepared for lots of ticks and poison oak.

Smaller camps like Goat can be made even smaller by deadfall, and while the presence of others can easily fill them, it’s less likely you will have company because most people go to Vicente and turn around. There tends to be established campsites because they are often the only places where camping is decent — this wilderness is extremely overgrown. A friend who lives in Monterey who hikes there a lot typically takes his little trail saw, not for campfire wood but for partially clearing trail. If a redwood falls across the trail in some parts, you’re turning around until the trail crew comes out to either hack steps in it or bring the really large crosscut.

If you are doing the loop going up from Vicente, prepare to be confused. People wander up the canyon and get lost. The trail to the Cone Peak Road zigzags up the ridge and is highly prone to deadfall. There are a couple of creeks that come to a confluence above Vicente Flat and there are use trails that wander around. The actual trail can be difficult to distinguish, but you should be crossing the creek, crossing a side creek, crossing the creek again, then heading upstream with a climb over a fallen redwood with steps hacked into it. The trail should start to switchback after that.

The road to Cone Peak typically closes in winter. It can wash out. N-F Road is paved, but slow due to the narrow winding nature of it. The FHL base is now no problem — the road was rerouted so you no longer have to check in with the base personnel. You drive past the base, across the bridge, and onward.

[Kenneth Keating]

Bruce: Thanks for the information on N-F road, this is helpful, especially the military portion and bringing along IDs.

Bri: For what I’ve seen on Google Earth when mapping out the route, there are intersections where multiple use(non-mapped) trails intersect. It may be confusing at these locations.  Plus from what I’ve read the Stone Ridge Trail(between Vicente and Goat Camp), where it branches off the Kirk Creek trail is not quite as apparent as it should be.  There’s supposed to be a sign, but it’s somewhat hidden.  I agree with Bruce, I’d recommend bringing a map and compass to play it safe.  I’ve also developed three dimensional views of the hike, if you need copies let me know.

Maps can be downloaded from http://bigsurtrailmap.net/ .  You’ll need Section E5 for sure.

For trail conditions by recent hikers go to http://www.ventanawild.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=35&sid=f0ad5630c4cf05a9e7e804c470f2883a .   This is a great resource as hikers list the trail conditions after their hikes.  The trails for this route are in great condition.  There are a few spots with downed trees, but nothing major.

[Bri W]

Well I’m glad you started this thread, bc I think I’m going to skip this trail and do Skyline-to-the-Sea instead. I did the Sykes Hot Springs trail last month and it was mostly enjoyable because the trail wasn’t overgrown (volunteers had just cleared a lot of the path), we had no chance of getting lost, and there were lots of places to fill up water. But the more I read up on reviews, the more I realize I don’t want to go bushwacking with my beloved Arc Blast or run out of water after getting attacked by poison oak, ticks, and rattle snakes. :)

 

[Window walker]

Hello,

I am very familiar with this loop, it is one of my favorites in Big Sur.  I suggest going counter clockwise, you get better views on the way down on the other side. Plus going up the other side where it is steep and exposed gets very hot and tough going. Like others have said there is plenty of camping spots at Vicente flats and there will be lots of people there. There is a lot of over flow space so no worries finding a spot there.  There are a couple of sites along the Cone Peak Road section but they fill quickly with car campers and can be dusty with passing cars.  A few weeks ago when I did the loop the road was closed for winter and the sites were open. I am unsure if the road has reopened or not.  i don’t think it is allowed to camp at the peak, but I and many others have with no problems besides the wind.  there is a small tent site, but very rocky. There is also a small rocky tent site at the bottom of the access trail.  I have seen a group of about ten camp up there, with many people cowboy camping along the sides of the look out tower.  It is great to see the sunset and the sun rise is even better. Past that you have the trail spring camp, but usually buggy due to the creek, and very small and usually fills quick, get there early.  Same thing goes for Goat camp in my experience. Sometimes I go past this camp up the trail to Cook Springs Camp which is also very nice and never seen any one there.  Although it adds a few miles to the loop.    One time I was forced to make it down to Ojito Camp, the trail is tough and overgrown.  The camp is nice, but no views and several widow makers!  There is a stealth camp a few miles past goat next to the trail, and if you follow the ridge there is an even better stealth camp with amazing views. On a side note, I usually don’t need a map and compass because I am familiar, but always carry them in case I want ot explore.

 

have fun!

[Lori P]

You may find it difficult to do Skyline to Sea. The trail camps close for the winter. I’m not sure when they open, I usually do Big Basin in May.

[Kenneth Keating]

Lori, Ben:  Thanks for your input, it’s very helpful and has given me a better idea of what to expect. No show stoppers, I’m looking forward to the trip.

K

[Kiel Senninger]

+1 to what Ben said. That’s some good up to date beta. I did this trip last January going counter clockwise starting from the PCH. I don’t remember seeing any signs.  There’s a not too difficult cross country section from a bit below the top of Cone Peak to Twin Peak and then down a grassy ridge to Ojito Saddle. Excellent views of the coastline and ocean the whole time. Here’s my trip report from last year

https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/98658/

Probably one of my favorite places to hike.

[Bruce Tolley]

@ Bri

According to http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=26658, the following camps are open

Slate Creek Trail Camp in Portola Redwoods State Park
Castle Rock Trail Camp in Castle Rock State Park
Waterman Gap Trail Camp in Castle Rock State Park
Lane Trail Camp in Big Basin Redwoods State Park
Jay Trail Camp in Big Basin Redwoods State Park
Sunset Trail Camp in Big Basin Redwoods State Park
Twin Redwoods Trail Camp in Big Basin Redwoods State Park
Butano Trail Camp in Butano State Park

The ones that fill up early are Sunset, Waterman Gap and Jay Camp the last one is inside Big Basin SP. You can even start at Sanborn County Park. Look at a map and you can figure out a route. I have never seen anyone at Butano, Slate Creek or Lane Camp.  I have also never seen Castle Rock full. You do need a permit and reservations at each site.

Cheers

Bruce

[Bri W]

Thanks! I’ll call and find out what’s available. If it’s closed, we’ll do cone peak and I’ll make my brother do the bush wacking while I protect my Arc Blast from any danger. ;)

[Rex Sanders]

Bri,

For a more ambitious variation on the Skyline-to-the-Sea, see http://tinyurl.com/100mileloop

— Rex

[Bri W]

Thanks! That looks fun. I’ll try it out another time when I am able to take 2 weeks off.

[Owen M]

I would recommend a different trip for first time backpackers.  It can be very hot and exposed on the way to Cone Peak, and the lack of water means you will need to carry a lot on that second day.  A good option is to leave your stuff at Vicente Flat and do a day trip up to Cone Peak or just explore the canyons and waterfalls and hang up a hammock for the afternoon if you want to enjoy the forest.  25+ miles and a 5000 ft. elevation gain in two days could very easily become a death march for them, especially with the water/exposure situation up there.  I would take it easy on them for their first time.  It all depends on what type of hiker they are though, as a lot of people love a more ambitious/arduous trip.

[Kenneth Keating]

Owen:  I have the same concerns.  A two day trip would require a 4,400 elevation gain the 1st day, and 3,600 the 2nd, so 8K total.  This would be a good three day trip, but two days may be pushing it. The difficultly is the others are in good shape and put in 6-8 mile walks daily walking up and down hills in San Francisco and work out quite a bit.  One of them has been backpacking a lot before, but I really don’t know what this means as they could have gone quite a bit, but carrying 35 pounds on level ground for 5 miles.  Plus I don’t know if there’s going to be availability of a campsite at Goats Camp being it’ll be a weekend.  My plan is to see what they show up with,  then when we arrive at Vicente Flats see how everyone is doing.  If they’ve beat and worn out we’ll be staying there.  But if they’ve just kicked tail going up the hill and want to do more we’ll be in for an adventure.

Is it difficult to get access to the waterfalls?  There’s Vicente Falls, are there others worth going to?

Thx, K

[Owen M]

That sounds like a good plan.  I like to have different options heading out to do a more ambitious/more chill trip depending on how things go.  I actually didn’t make it over to the waterfalls, but they’re not supposed to be that hard to get to.  When you’re at Vicente, follow the creek upstream and then take the left fork when you’re faced with a choice.  The trail up to Cone Peak Rd. goes up the right fork, which makes a nice day hike if you decide to drop your stuff at Vicente.

[chris smead]

I tried to do the Cone peak loop about 10 years ago.  Highly regret it.   At the time the trail was virtually non existent about 4 miles in, and literally covered with poison oak and ticks.  (Poison oak bushes on the actual trail forcing you to walk around, if possible)  The “trail” got very steep at times, and I ended up accidentally dropping my backpack, which proceeded to tumble until it was out of sight.  Never found it despite hours of looking.  :(

I then spent a miserable freezing cold night without a sleeping bag before hiking out the next day.  On the way out, I had to bushwack a lot, and would end up brushing off as many as 15-20 ticks on my legs afterwards.

I vowed never to return after that.  But who knows….maybe the trail is better cut now.  Perhaps others can comment.

[Lori P]

There’s a forum specific to the Ventana, with the locals posting trail conditions. Some are making an effort to bring back old trails that disappeared in the big fire. They also post water availability.

Christopher’s experience is fairly typical of the Ventana – trails can disappear in an alarmingly short time. And the locals will call something a ‘wilderness freeway’ that ends up being a bushwack by the standards of someone accustomed to park trails. The most overgrown trails in Yosemite are a cakewalk, by comparison, because they can have fallen trees but not the crazy overgrowth of ceonothus and madrone and manzanita and poison oak.

My boyfriend doesn’t like hiking there, except for Vicente Flat, but I do go in winter. I’m pretty good at finding old trail bed, and sorting out navigational challenges, however.

[Kenneth Keating]

Thank’s for everyone’s input.    The information helped out in our decision making process.  We spent Friday night in King City, and on Saturday morning we drove to the trailhead via Nacimiento-Fergusson Road, hiked into Vicente Flat Camp, set up camp, and then hiked up to Cone Peak and back to Vincente Flat.  We covered 17 miles with an elevation gain of almost 6,000 feet.   It was a fun day with beautiful weather.  20-30 MPH winds were predicted, but we had none.  We decided not to go to Goat Camp as there were lots of cars at the trailhead and spoke to a couple of different groups heading to Goat Camp.  We decided we wanted to do most of the hiking on Saturday and then have an easier day on Sunday.  Needless to say we were tired when we arrived back in camp.  On Sunday we hiked back out, headed to Nepenthe’s for cheeseburgers and headed back home.

Everything was still green and flowers in bloom.  The trails were great, wide open for most of the time except for maybe 200 feet of overgrown bushes near Cone Peak that were easy to go through.  But there’s a LOT of poison oak.  At some locations it was lining both sites of the trial with some branches into the trail; you had to be very careful to avoid.

It was Nepenthe’s 67th  anniversary and we just happened to be the 67th guest.  We received a nice gift basket.  A great way to end a fun trip.

[Bruce Tolley]

Thanks for sharing. The weather and views must have been awesome!

[Author]

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