Breaking Slings

[W I S N E R !]

I thought this video was terrifying as well as very interesting. Amazing how much the knot can weaken dyneema yet almost help nylon. And that nylon slings faired better than dyneema due to stretch. Dyneema may be stronger by weight, but it's stiffness/lack of stretch apparently leads to higher Kn loads in falls.

http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

Makes me think A LOT about how much slack I have in a tether (I use a Sterling Chain Reactor) when clipped in while standing close to edges and rigging rappels/anchors. Definitely makes the case for using an adjustable length tether as opposed to a simple sling with knots in it to shorten it.

Pretty crazy to think that a man of my size, falling only two feet onto a sling, can generate enough force to snap it, especially if there's a knot in it.

[Andrew F]

You should never place yourself in a situation where you might dynamically load a sling. The rope is there to absorb energy; tie in with it whenever possible. If you are worried about falling onto your tether, use a Purcell prusik.

[James holden]

Falling on a nylon sling may not break it but itll give you whiplash and back pains for a week

Sadly ive done it when forgetting to unclip while hangdoging

Dont fall on anything unless there is a rope in the system

If you do put yourself in such situations use a lanyard made of dynamic rope or a purcell

;)

[Dave @ Oware]

Always have a dynamic rope in the system. (or one of the dynamic devices made for Via Ferrata etc.)

[W I S N E R !]

Exactly my point of posting.

Everybody should know not to do this. Seeing what actually happens and how little it takes to snap a sling is a different story.

[Nick Smolinske]

This is why, if I'm multipitch climbing, I will always use the dynamic rope as my safety (just tie a clove hitch and clip it to a locker). Easier and safer than a dedicated safety.

When rappelling I just use a double-length nylon runner and shorten if necessary. I try to be really careful to stay below the anchors, too.

[Anonymous]

"Pretty crazy to think that a man of my size, falling only two feet onto a sling, can generate enough force to snap it, especially if there's a knot in it."

Might be a good argument for making some, not all, of your slings from dynamic rope? I'm talking specifically about slings that are not used when placing pro, where the climbing rope stretches and dissipates the energy, but rather those used as tethers.
Even so, given the short length of a sling, the benefit would be marginal. But maybe enough to make the difference between scary and disaster?

[Anonymous]

" I will always use the dynamic rope as my safety (just tie a clove hitch and clip it to a locker). Easier and safer than a dedicated safety."

Used to be SOP.

[Billy Ray]

"Used to be SOP."

my used to be SOP involved 1" tubular nylon webbing; not this wimpy stuff people are using now to save weight… and two of them and two anchor points; not just one.

Of course, the rope is ideal, but sometimes you need the full length of the rope to the next anchor so not good if you need 8feet of rope for your belay anchor.

Billy

[W I S N E R !]

The only problem with the dynamic rope solution is that when canyoneering, you're not carrying dynamic rope.

Slings and PAS's seem to be the SOP in canyons from what I've seen. I've personally never used tethers in any other situation. And this video serves as good reminder as to why you'd better be damned careful.

[Dustin Short]

True, but when canyoneering you're usually below the anchors and weighting them directly, so risk of shock loading the sling is fairly low.

A sling of any type is still better than clipping into the rubber loop instead of the dogbone on a quickdraw O.o

[James holden]

MEC sells dynamic climbing rope bu the metre

Lanyards made from dynamic rope have tested at significantly reduced impact force than most other alternatives

http://british-caving.org.uk/rope/lanyard_tests_v6.pdf

Even in factor 2 falls …

;)

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