Lightweight Trekking Poles

[J Phillips]

Delmar-

I agree- really wanting those slick unavailable TI poles now…. and… they are bound to kick my daily 8-10 mile grind into 12 mile sashay…..

[Roger Caffin]

> No, I doubt price is the issue. Must be some other reason. Bike frames are made of
> Ti and while they're more expensive than aluminum, they're usually comparable in
> price to carbon fiber.
And the good CF ones may cost $5k upwards I believe. (Ignore the cheap Chinese ones for obvious reasons…)

> As far as difficult to work, Ti isn't an issue if you're set up for it, like a mfgr would be.
Not only is Ti much more expensive than Al, it costs a HUGE amount more to process it. Many shops can churn out Al parts, but few can handle Ti. I can and do machine it, and trust me it costs time and facilities! 7075 alloy (see below) is a dream to machine in comparison.

Now, those Leki Flex-lite shafts. NEVER EVER trust any marketing department. They will spin like a politician. You cannot rely on ANYTHING they say. The Leki specs actually do say in the fine print (if you search for it):

HTS Performance Series – Aluminum of high tensile strength, alloy 7075-produced in a special hot-air hardening process, giving outstanding strength. Light-weight, sturdy, high stability and elasticity.

Cheers

[BlackHatGuy]

"Me too. I'm stumped. Now that I can't have Ti poles, I really, really want them."

A short, but similar, discussion on Ti: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=78121

[Lori P]

Late to the thread.

I have LT4s and absolutely love them. I have relied on them for nearly 8 years now and replaced sections twice. Not because they broke in the wilderness while in use, but because I was stupid enough to forget they were in the trunk before I loaded it with packs.

They have taken a lot of hammering up and down hills. They don't slip unless I fail to twist them tight enough. If the pole fails to lock, I pull apart the sections and move the rubber bit down the screw and reassemble – it works. Sometimes the low night temps will affect that rubber cylinder and result in a failure to lock, but field fixable wins points from me.

I use them for shelter supports as well.

I have a pair of heavy Eastons for trips in snow, or rougher cross country work. I have reasonable expectations of poles – I do not believe there is ever a piece of gear that cannot fail, and carbon fiber is not going to withstand a lot of torque or weight/pressure on the horizontal – putting weight on them in the trunk fractured the collapsed poles. Putting my body weight on them while in use has not. Crossing creeks or general hauling up steep trail have not been a problem. But I don't weigh 500 lbs, and when scrambling, crawling through talus or some other rough terrain I don't really use them because of the potential for twisting or leaning against in addition to on them.

If you want to fold up poles and carry them on the pack while scrambling, something that breaks into smaller sections is better. I looked seriously at the Big Agnes Helinox – no twist or flip lock to break.

[Delmar O’Donnell]

>…Ti. I can and do machine it, and trust me it costs time and facilities! 7075 alloy (see below) is a dream to machine in comparison.

Wow. Being able to machine Ti is jedi-level machining. I wouldn't think there'd be a lot of machining necessary on Ti poles, tho. Roger can you give me a link where I can read a bit more on what you are machining out of Ti? I have a couple machinist classes under my belt and am interested.

> Now, those Leki Flex-lite shafts. NEVER EVER trust any marketing department. They will spin like a politician. You cannot rely on ANYTHING they say. The Leki specs actually do say in the fine print (if you search for it): HTS Performance Series – Aluminum of high tensile strength, alloy 7075-produced in a special hot-air hardening process, giving outstanding strength. Light-weight, sturdy, high stability and elasticity.

Well slap me silly and call me Sally. So even those poles unambiguously marketed as Ti (or so I thought) are also Aluminum? Outrageous! Maybe that's why they're not on the market…someone could take Leki to court for false advertising, I'd imagine.

None of this has diminished my desire for Ti poles. It's becoming something of an obsession.

[Nick Gatel]

I have a Titanium shirt made by Columbia. Yepper, it says Titanium right on the shirt. If Columbia can make a $50 shirt out of Titanium, it must be simpler and easier to make Titanium trekking poles. It's a non-issue for me — I quit using trekking poles a long time ago — extra weight I can leave at home. Seems I read that Grandma Gatewood did the AT in here 60's and a third AT in here 70's. Between those hikes she walked the Oregon trail. She didn't have trekking poles either.

:)

Edited because my iPhone has itty bitty keys.

[Ian]

"Seems I read that Grandma Gatewood yada yada yada She didn't have trekking poles either."

We can only hope to be as tough as Grandma Gatewood someday. If anyone thinks that they are, I'd certainly be amused to hear why you feel that way.

Back to your regularly scheduled discussion.

[Delmar O’Donnell]

>Grandma Gatewood … didn't have trekking poles either.

She used a hiking staff, though.

[Ian]

"She used a hiking staff, though."

Yes she did! She fell once, broke it, shook it off, found another, and kept on hiking.

[JJ Willcoxon]

LOVE my Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork Trekking Poles.

I know that they are:

Not the cheapest

Not the lightest

But, I tried several other Brands and Styles and hated them all in comparison. I have simply found "my" pole, because:

Two of the aluminum type bent on me within a few trips. I couldn't identify an event where it occurred, either time. No major trips, falls, stumbles, etc. And, I weigh just under 150 lbs. I'm not a wide load.

One carbon fiber style had locks that let them slip whenever I put full weight on them and one of them wouldn't hold, even when adjusted all of the way tight. (Could have been a faulty lock?) I have never had my BD Flick Locks slip on me.

Rubber grips just don't work for me. They destroy my hands and make them sore. The cork handles don't pain me at all. Ever. Not even when new.

I use my trekking poles for tent poles on several of my tents/tarps and my Carbon Corks have never cracked, slipped, bent or otherwise failed me in this capacity.

I haven't found a single thing that I don't like about them. To me, when you find something like this that just works for you, you stick with it. There was a thread a while back that talked about the BD Carbon Corks. Several other users had developed this same kind of loyalty to them too. They're just a really great pole that carries a slight weight penalty over some of the others that are out there. I'm happy to carry the extra ounces for the durability, reliability, and comfort that they provide for me.

[Greg Mihalik]

Extolled above ^^^^

"Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork Trekking Poles"

15.2 ounces/pair (according to BD)
~ $140

[LT4s for me.]

[Tom D.]

"http://www.amazon.com/Cascade-Mountain-Carbon-Fiber-Trekking/dp/B007E0ZBZI

One review says "over 7 oz each" and another says "Manufacturers site says each pole weighs right under 8oz".

Note one buyer reports getting them at Costco for $25."

---

I believe mine was the review that had them at just over 7 oz. They weighed 14.4 oz total for the first set that I bought (I believe it was 7.1 oz and 7.3 oz respectively). I paid $24.95 at Costco each time for all 4 of the sets that I've bought, all twist lock. I haven't seen them at any of my local Costcos in over a year though. I'm curious as to how well the lever locks work. I've had lever locks on camera tripods deteriorate and fail several times, but I realize that this is a different application. I am also interested in seeing how the carbon fiber tubing holds up under the pressure of the lever lock over time.

The first 3 sets that I had all failed during my JMT hike in 2012. I scavenged parts to rebuild one set, and purchased another set. Of the 2 functioning pairs that I have, one has been used several times a week for the last 1 1/2 years with no problems. I currently rate them as being well above Walmart and Target poles, both of which I've tried, but below the GG LT4's, and below the other higher end poles that I've tried from Leki and Black Diamond, although they are lighter than all but the lightest from those two companies. I took the straps off the set that I normally use, as I had an experience where I stepped too close to the edge of the trail and it gave way, causing me to fall to the ground (almost into the ravine). My wrist was in the strap at the time, and the way the pole was positioned as I fell, it twisted my wrist backward. Thankfully, the strap attachment of the pole broke before my wrist did. After using them this way for over a year now, I prefer no straps (which also took about .4 oz off the weight of each pole, although that's not why I took them off).

What I like about the LT4's (besides the weight) are the comfort of the grips, and the fact that they only have one adjustment point each, which means 50% fewer weak points than the others. They still retract small enough to fit lengthwise into the width of my Mini Cooper, which is all I need them to do. If I need them boxed for traveling, I'd just use the rigid tube they came in. The o-ring seems to do a good job of keeping the water out when using them upside down as a shelter support. They are by far the most expensive trekking poles I've ever bought, time will tell how well they hold up.

[Ken Thompson]

+1 JJ

[Anonymous]

For twist lock poles, i know someone has recommended using sand paper with adhesive backing to act as a friction material to create a better hold, but was wondering if someone has ever tried using silicone tape before?

[Greg Mihalik]

I use a self-adhering "rubber" tape, often used in electrical work.

[Anonymous]

I think we may be talking about the same thing..? This stuff is self adhering, and kind of grippy and very stretchy. So it works pretty well for this purpose?

[Greg Mihalik]

What I use is an "old school" rubber-like product.
Grippy, stretches, conforms and bonds around irregular shapes, forms a watertight seal.

What I use is Not one of the newer silicon tapes.

[Anonymous]

I see. Guess i will have to try out the silicone stuff myself then. Do you think there is any disadvantage to using the "newer" silcone tapes verse the old school rubber ones for this purpose?

[Jerry Adams]

I have friend making poles. Would the cork wrap that is used on handlebars work for grip?

[Tom D.]

Ive used the cork wrap for my mountain bike grips, I have to think it would work just fine for trekking poles. Ive even used a paracord wrap on my myog bamboo poles in a multi-use experiment, and while it works ok, there are more comfortable materials out there. Cork wrap wont have the comfortable shape that the GG grips have, which is part of what makes the GG grips so comfortable, but it should still be more than comfortable enough.

[Tom D.]

"For twist lock poles, i know someone has recommended using sand paper with adhesive backing to act as a friction material to create a better hold, but was wondering if someone has ever tried using silicone tape before?"

---

Having had twist locks fail before, Im trying to get a picture in my mind of how this is used to enhance the friction. Where do you apply the silicone tape?

[Delmar O’Donnell]

> Cork wrap wont have the comfortable shape that the GG grips have,

I was thinking same, although not in terms of comfort. One of the advantages of grips is the flare under your pinkie finger, which allows you to put significant downward force on the poles with the side of your hand. With cork wrap on a simple cylinder, you'd have to substitute grip strength to get the same effect.

[Greg Mihalik]

Tom –
"Having had twist locks fail before, Im trying to get a picture in my mind of how this is used to enhance the friction. Where do you apply the silicone tape?"

A somewhat confusing discussion…. the tape is applied to the distant ends of each section, allowing you to get a firm grip on the poles, versus enhancing the grip of the expander.

IMHO grip-tape is not needed with UL CF poles (e.g. LT4s). Any issues with locking and staying reside with the cleanliness of the expansion plug and the interior of the section.

My use of self-adhering "rubber" tape is limited to winter-time use on ski poles, where mitts make gripping the shafts difficult.

[Overshot]

Any more updates in the last 2 years with carbon vs aluminum? Seems like BD has really refined the Z pole system in both of these materials. I am coming from a 12 year old pair of Leki Makalu twist lock that has several thousand miles on them. I have bent them exactly once as the tip got jammed when I was moving quickly. Do you think Carbon may be worth the extra $$ with its tradeoffs?

[Bob Moulder]

If you want to find out, THESE poles get rave reviews from all quarters and they are incredibly cheap, reasonably lightweight and use cam locking mechanisms, not twist.

One thing about carbon fiber is that when it breaks it doesn’t bend… it snaps. Depending upon where exactly it snaps (quite often the lower section, near the tip), a repair sleeve might or might not work. I carry a repair sleeve for the lower section of my MYOG poles and a tiny tube of cyanoacrylate (‘super’) glue and hope that if I snap a tip it’s high enough on the pole section that the repair sleeve will work.

Sounds as if you’re pretty easy on gear with that many miles and only one incident, so I’d say go for it. Folks who are hard on gear should, IMO, avoid the really light stuff from Locus, GG, Ruta, etc.

[Author]

Posts