Altai Skis: The Hok Ski and X-Trace Universal Binding Review

[Huzefa @ Blue Bolt Gear]

I am really digging McCarthy's setup. I wonder how hoks with fortybelow overboots screwed to the base will work. Probably some reinforcement under the rubber sole may be required. I am thinking 1.5 oz cuben fiber bonded to inside of the sole should prevent the rubber from tearing. Any better ideas?

[Jonathan Shefftz]

"I am really digging McCarthy's setup."
— What aspect of it? I ran the numbers for his overboots and hardware as compared to xc classic race boots and bindings, and in return for the lack of any striding pivot and far reduced skiing control (as well as highly suspect durability), the weight savings are somewhere on the order of just a few ounces, so an utter failure in both efficiency and fun.

[spelt with a t]

No.

[Jonathan Shefftz]

… but my point is that cross country skiing with overboots screwed into skis (as opposed to using cross country ski boots and bindings) entails both a lack of any striding pivot and a significant reduction in skiing control that sure seems like a lot less fun.

[Ross Bleakney]

I think the advantage of the overboot setup is that it is:

1) Cheap
2) Can work with hiking boots

If you are too cheap to get a good universal binding, then the overboot should work (if it doesn't break). The advantage of an universal binding is that you don't have to use ski boots. This means that if you don't own a pair of (cross country or other) ski boots, but you already own hiking boots, you can save yourself even more money. It also means that you don't have to either carry your ski boots, or worry about whether they are comfortable to hike in (or whether you might damage them in some way).

As previously mentioned, though, a lot of ski boots are very comfortable for hiking. In general, the overboot would not be my choice, but if you like to tinker around and want to save money, it is probably the cheapest way to go (assuming you already have hiking boots and can get overboots for cheap). Worth mentioning is that lots of people have tried this approach, but only a few have succeeded (and bully for the folks that have).

In general, though, using cross country gear does sound like a lot more fun. I think most people would agree (just as most people would say going to the dentist is not fun, even though that isn't quantifiable either).

[Jonathan Shefftz]

. . . pretty much none. If I'm understanding his setup correctly, the cost of overboots and related custom hardware will save a very small amount of money over some used xc classic race boots and bindings.
But his setup "works" with trail runners (or whatever non-snow footwear is being used) only by slipping them into the overboots (which are permanently attached to the skis). You could instead just slip off the trail runners and then put your feet into the xc ski boots for a far more efficient and in-control skiing experience (which I think anyone would agree adds up to more fun).
The only advantage the screwed-on overboots have is a very slight weight savings (i.e., a few ounces) relative to xc classic race boots & bindings. But the striding inefficiency and lack of skiing control will more than offset the weight savings.

[Jim Milstein]

I mounted the heavy-duty Voile 3-pin bindings on the Hoks and used my only 75 mm Nordic Norm boots, an early pair of Scarpa T1s (similar to recent T2s). The skis climb great and glide surprisingly well. They are very easy to turn. However, the factory binding position is quite a bit too far forward for those accustomed to skiing. I think they are meant to appeal to reforming snowshoers. I made some light-weight adapters of redwood that move the bindings back three inches, which allows comfortable linked telemark turns, or anything else you want to do with the Hoks.

T1s are overkill for these short skis, so I ski them unbuckled, which makes them very comfortable indeed. The boots have Thermofit liners, and that makes them slightly lighter. I will try to find a smaller lighter 3-pin boot for these skis. Or I may mount some adapters I made to fit my SNS bindings and use some Karhu SNS boots on hand. That would be a fairly light setup overall. But even using the T1s, the rig feels pretty light to me, accustomed as I am to a very heavy backcountry telemark setup.

It is no surprise that these skis are at their best in my "backyard", which is the foothills zone (7-8.5K') south of the San Juans and east of the South San Juans in southwest Colorado. There are lots of up and down, lots of brush and trees, and usually thin snow cover. As noted in the review, the built-in skins must be kept well-waxed and scraped from time to time, if they get iced. This will happen when skiing alternately on sunny wet snow and cold shady snow. I am seeing signs of wear on the skins. Eventually, something will need to be done, but probably not for a few years.

I have tried skiing them up high in the Wolf Creek Pass region, and that is the wrong terrain for them. They are not meant for big descents where maximal glide is best. There's no harm in trying though.

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