DIY Tarp Shape

[Brian Zick]

Howdy,

I've gotten myself 10 yards of 1.1oz silnylon to make a tarp (or more than one). However, I have noted that many tarps sold DON'T come in a simple rectangle. That said, I realize there is a difference between a tarp and a tarptent. What I would like to make is a tarp that I can throw up in at least a few configurations.

So what are your thoughts on the versatility of different tarp shapes and upsides of different features? Are rectangular tarps better or worse than other shapes?

I understand a ridge-line curve can help on several aspects, but what else is there to consider?

Thanks!

Brian M Zick

[Jerry Adams]

Rectangle tarps – the two ends tend to be open so rain can blow in.

[Colin Krusor]

Rain ingress is a risk with small tarps pitched in a high A-frame regardless of tarp shape. To reduce the risk of getting wet, most tarp users pitch the tarp low when rain seems imminent, or, if the tarp is big enough (9' x 9' or bigger), a very weathertight pitch like a low tetra can be used.

I'm making a 9' x 9' tarp right now. I like the square design better than a rectangle because the extra width provides for a lot of creative origami-like foul-weather pitches.

[Ken Thompson]

Rectangular tarps lend themselves to more pitching options than shaped tarps. Easier to sew also. Rectangular with beaks would be a simple project also. Don't overcomplicate your thinking towards design too much. Make something and use it. You'll then know what you need to add or subtract from your design.

[Brian Zick]

I can see what you mean, and I tend to agree. Now what about shapes like these?

Is the point of this simply to allow less material (thus lighter weight), but still have greater headroom? Or is there some way to pitch this that's not an A-frame? Because I really don't mind a few more ounces for added versatility.

[James Marco]

I was looking at comming up with a single tarp for hiking. An A-Frame or Pup tent is pretty difficult to beat. Another design that comes close is the Lean-To. It eliminates the need for ground cloth and bivy, soo, the extra weight is mostly offset.

[Jerry Adams]

I like that shape, Brian

The foot end is close to the ground so rain doesn't blow in, it doesn't flat around in the wind so much, and uses less fabric so it's lighter

At the head end, I extend point d a bit and make it a "beak". I put in a zipper so I can get in and out.

That's one way to do it

[Brian Zick]

Thanks for the insights!

I really like both ways – a simple square/rectangle, and a slightly more elaborate modified shape (that has actually become 6-sided) like what I posted.

In terms of versatility, isn't the modified 6-sided shape pretty much intended to be pitched only one way? For my first tarp, I'm not sure if I want to make it one way or the other.

[Jerry Adams]

Yes, 6 sided can only be pitched one way – well, maybe a little variation

But, it is more rain and wind resistant. Maybe you only need to pitch a tarp one way if that works.

On the other hand, if the weather was mild with only a little rain or dew, then you can pitch it higher and have more room, etc.

[David Drake]

Nice tarp, Jerry. A few questions:

>Do you happen to know finished weight and yards required to make (assume 60" yard)?
>Is the ridge cat-cut?
>Is the beak sewn to the main body or part of it?
>Could you pitch tight to the ground if necessary?

Seems like the only real advantages to a flat tarp would be:
>Can be pitched many ways (but for me, trying to remember more than 2-3 pitches would be a PITA, and if a shaped tarp can be both pitched tight to ground and opened up, why bother?).
>Less expensive (if purchased)/easier to construct (if MYOG).
>Coolness factor of origami-like variations from simple shelter (at the expense of a bit more weight, more fiddle-factor, less-taut pitch, etc)

Is this right? I also have about 10 yards of sil–after making the shelter I've been designing (another thread) I'll have some left over, and have been thinking of either a flat tarp or a simple 6 sided like above.

[Jerry Adams]

This is about my 5th iteration with this fabric and it's 5 pieces, but if I was going to make it again, it would be two identical pieces. 10 foot ridge line with cat cut. 2 foot wide at foot end. 4 feet wide at head end. 3 foot ridge beak, maybe a cat cut.

Maybe 8 square yards so that would be 12 ounces for 1.5 oz silnylon. Maybe 7 yards of 60" wide.

Some day I'm going to decide it's good enough and re-make it with two pieces and maybe write it up in more detail.

[Jamie Shortt]

Brian, Here is a pic of my MYOG cat tarp. I took it yesterday morning on top of Cold Mountain in Shining Rock Wilderness, NC.

It is fairly easy tarp to make. It takes 3 yards of silnylon. Basically cut the length to 8'6". Cut it in half at a slight diagonal down the length at maybe 3'-2'. Then flip the pieces around so you end up with a trapezoid that is 6' x 4' x 8.5'. You can now sew the rifgeline together or cut a catenary curve along the ridge then sew together. My tarp has a finished weight of 6.75 oz.

I think Jerry's tarp is going to have much more room. I like it a lot and may have to try to do one like it myself.

Jamie

[Michael Ray]

How do you users of the typical A-frame manage to get in while it is pouring without getting all your stuff inside wet/muddy? It looks like a tight squeeze to even crawl in headfirst.

[todd]

Michael,

Your question gets to the heart of why I just can't get into the lightest, smallest A-frames, no matter how much I want to use them for their simplicity, beauty, and light weight.

The contortion or crawling just isn't fun for me.

Todd

[Jerry Adams]

Or if you have to crawl in, and then turn your feet around it's difficult

If it's raining I like to be able to sit upright, like 40 inches of headroom

[Brian Zick]

Hmm that is a valid point. Right now I have a full body mosquito net, which has a built-in line at the top which holds it up. There is no zipper, and once you have it staked to the ground, you have to basically lay down flat on the ground to get in. I think a tarp would be easier to get into than that. That said, I would mind a few more ounces in trade for the ability to easily get in.

Since a mosquito net's really not intended to be used with a tarp anyway, I'm thinking I should replace it with something else. I was thinking maybe I should make a bivy bag with some sort of zippered mosquito net enclosure. Or is there a better solution?

[Brian Zick]

.

[todd]

Brian,

The issues above are why I prefer side-entry tarps. I usually use a Gatewood Cape, but there are others, and you can design one easily as well. Side entry allows me to literally "back" in, butt 1st and sit down in my shelter. I can sit up to cook, as well. Having some knee issues, this really helps. No crawling, muddy clothing, or contortion.

There is one caveat to side-entry design, as I see it. If it's pouring when it's time to get in, water can get inside, but this is minimal if I just do it.

For skeeters, the Serenity or a bivy do the trick in a side-entry tarp.

A half-mid shape w/ a larger tarp is open, airy, provides good coverage too. Z-packs' designs, among others work well.

Todd

[Michael Ray]

I also did a MYOG half-mid. Mine is a true half (side is vertical) so rain entering isn't a problem unless I pitched it in the wrong direction. The downside is the footprint is larger than some tarp(tent)s. It's a 6×8 flat tarp really though I'd prefer larger to give more footroom (I sleep diagonally in it). It's pretty cramped when pitched to the ground.

I also have a Lunar Duo, which has vertical sides, so only the vestibule area should get appreciably wet upon entering (aside from your raingear dripping of course).

[Brian Zick]

Well here is a test drawing. I am thinking the dimensions are too large, however this isn't actually the footprint, just the fabric size. I am not sure about a side entry or not. I've looked at some side-entry designs but am not sure exactly how that goes together. Also, I'm young and can pretend to be a contortionist. I would just rather not have to lay down on the ground to get in. Which is why a zipper might be handy. Not for every use, but in heavy weather I decided to pitch it flat on the ground, then I would be able to get in. Or would velcro be an ok solution? Of course maybe I should just try it without a side/front opening to see what I think.

[Jerry Adams]

That is very close to what I am using

The only addition is to cut the beak so it angles down:

One thing you could do is make a tiny model with paper or a scale model with polyethelene plastic

To make a side entry, you could put a zipper in from the center down 4 feet – actually you wouldn't want to go all the way to the center, maybe the bottom 3 feet or so

Zipper is better than velcro. Easier to use. Might be more difficult to sew it in, at least until you figure out how to do it

[Brian Zick]

I made this design, but am now thinking the gap is to small (1'). Thoughts?

I also was testing headroom, and how to lay it out on my material. As it turns out, the fabric is 65" wide instead of 60" wide… Very cool.

[Jerry Adams]

Nice layouts

Good usage of fabric

The gap? I keep screwing with mine. It depends how tall your pole is and how wide.

Probably 1 foot is too small.

You could make a small model with paper

You could make it with no gap, set it up like you want, mark where you want the gap to be, and then sew it.

[Lance M]

Brian,

For reference, here's a pattern (without the cat curves) and the resulting product:

As mentioned, making a paper model is a good idea.

Hope this helps.

-Lance

[John Donewar]

Lance,

I am very interested in your tarp/tent. Do you have a more detailed pattern with measurements "on file" somewhere?

How did you go about sewing the netting to the canopy to avoid the raw edges?

Your shelter looks like what I would finally like to use as my go to shelter of choice. Have you weighed it?

I really like the looks of it. I love the height of the ridgeline and the obvious ventilation it provides.

Party On,

Newton

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