M50 TopBag Finished

[Clint N.]

I am going to jump into MYOG this year and plan to make a synthetic summer quilt once CS Apex becomes available or if XP reappears. I'm assuming that these methods won't allow you to sew into the insulation, leaving it free to move within the shell. From other threads, it looks like the way to go is the inside-out method. I have two questions on this. First, is a second seem also preferred on a synthetic quilt for additional strength? Second, how are the draw cord tunnels constructed using the inside-out method? I understand that the tunnels can be added later but it seems more straight-forward to do it as you sew the quilt. I can theorize a few ways in my head but could use some detailed instructions on the best method. As a person with no sewing experience, photos or sketches would be helpful.
Thanks

[Tim Marshall]

With synthetic inside out is the ticket. All 3 layers (insulation on floor, then shell right side up then liner right side down)get sewn together with a ~12" hole left open to turn it right side out. For drawcord tubes and zippers you pin them between the 2 layers of nylon so they get sewn in place when you sew the perimeter of the quilt while inside out. I have been adding a line of stitching on my syn quilts as you have to have it to close the hole anyway and running it up both sides hides the location of the hole very well and it does to a small degree reduce the chance of seam failure, but that is so unlikely to start.

For drawcord tunnels i do the top and bottom different. for the top i make 2 tunnels that meet in the middle of the quilt. pin them between the 2 layers of nylon with the cord running through with some sticking out on both ends. If using a small cord tie a knot in each end. the tunnels get pinned straight across the head end of the quilt all the way to the sides. once sewn shut and turned inside out the look perfect. i used to fold the tunnel at the end so it was only folded into the top seam but letting it go to the end and also get sewn into the side seam make it look better and is easier to do. For the foot end tunnel i make 1 long one with 1 hemmed edge. I pin it in place starting at the hemmed edge (make sure the hemmed edge won't get sewn into the side seam) then pin to the other side. Once at the other side i fold twice to trap the raw edge inside the tube and pin it in place making sure it won't get sewn into the side seam. The leaves you with a center pull cord at the top and an end pull cord at the bottom. I used to do center pull on both but the end pull closes better at the foot and you can put the cord in after sewing.

Hope that helps.

-Tim

[Jerry Adams]

When sewing, do you have the insulation against the pressure foot, or below against the feed dog?

I have had the insulation against the pressure foot, but it kind of catches and starts coming apart, but if I press it down and carefully feed it (the insulation) it's okay, but maybe this is non optimum.

In other cases I have had outer fabric/insulation/liner and it seems like it works better.

But then you have to finish the raw edges, but a simple tuck all the way around isn't that difficult.

With the inside out method, when you turn it inside out, it seems like the insulation will be folded over at the edges making it look and feel un-professional.

You definitely want to capture the insulation all the way around the edges. When I haven't, the insulation shifts inwards leaving uninsulated places on the edges.

How much do you have to sew it in the middle areas (away from the edges) to keep the insulation from shifting?

[Tim Marshall]

i keep the insulation down with my dogs.

i don't sew in the middle at all, this is why you choose climashield.

once turned right side out you can't see that the insulation in the seam allowance is turned down(with m90/intrepid but you can with 1.1 and cuben) if you set it up like i said above the seam allowance will be on the inside/liner of the quilt and if you add the line of stitching 1/4"ish from the edge you will never notice it.

-Tim

[Jerry Adams]

You're backwoods daydreamer?

I don't see quilts on your website

[Tim Marshall]

Nope, I am with Enlightened Equipment. Scott L. is the BWDD man, and a good man he is.

-Tim

[Clint N.]

Tim
Thanks for the explanation. I think I'm getting it but I'll have to mentally process it a little more to be sure I understand. It seems the problem is that showing one how to sew is rather simple but trying to explain it without the visual component makes it sound terribly complex.

[Jerry Adams]

Okay, there you are, Tim, all your quilts are temporarily unavailable while you're researching.

You should put elightenedequipment.com in your signature or something.

[Tim Marshall]

agreed. and to complicate things even more i am a terrible communicator.

-Tim

[Tim Marshall]

the site is linked in my profile

-Tim

[Clint N.]

Jamie,
Your summer quilt looks great. I have a question regarding steps 9 and 10 above. When making a sewn-through quilt, why do you pin the two pieces of fabric together along the baffle line? Do these holes allow any down to leak after completion? Do you pin straight on the line and then remove each pin as you sew? How close do you place pins together?
Thanks

[Aaron Sorensen]

It's not that it would cause a hole more than you just need to be carefull not to apply too much forced friction on the pin as to open a hole big enough for down leakage.

[Jamie Shortt]

Clint, Yes it is important to pin the baffles. I am working on some expanded instructions that include pictures. I have added the baffle pinning to the instructions.

I have not noticed any down leaking from the pin holes. I really can't find the holes at all. If they are their I can't see them. I did shell out about $9 for some high end small diameter pins with glass beaded heads. Yes I do remove the pins as I sew. I sew right up to the pin, pause, remove the pin and continue. How close together?… from the photo it looks like I am pinning 12-15 pins across 52 inches. So I'd say 4-5" apart. Any sewing experts have an opinion, too many or too few?

It alittle hard to see, but in this photo I have finished the sewing the lower baffles. I have pinned the top half baffles and I am ready to sew. It is really important that the baffles are sewn with the fabric equal or flat on both sides. You do this by pinning it real well.

Jamie

[Clint N.]

Thanks for the further explanation Jamie. I look forward to the expanded instructions and pictures. Photos help so much with these kind of projects. I plan to make both a synthetic quilt and a sewn-through down quilt this summer and I should be well prepared with the help of so many here.

[Rob Hubbard]

Most often when you pin you are actually just shifting the threads to either side of the pin rather than poking a hole through and removing material. The threads often move back on there on or you can 'help' them with a little rub, though I've never bothered.

On the whole issue of pinning sewn thru baffles it is important. Even more so if you do what I did on one quilt. I made the top piece longer and made a differential quilt longitudinally rather than latitudinally. In that case you have to pin down to ensure it's even across the length of the quilt.

[Daryl and Daryl]

Matt,

The design of your bag/quilt looks perfect (at least for my needs).

I like the fabric on the bottom because it reduces airflow getting under the bag. Those small drafts that sneak in under quilts are the thing that most interferes with my sleep.

I modified a sleeping bag in a similar manner so it could serve as a quilt for my wife and I. Worked well. I was quite generous with the added bottom fabric in my experiment. Additional fabric added very little weight and gave me a lot of flexibility with temperature control. When cold I could pull tha bag in close and when hot I could expose the single layer fabric on the sides and cool down (ooo a pun) easily. My wife and I could do this independently using this side ventilation technique.

Do you know of anyone who makes and sells a bag designed like yours? I would consider buying one if so.

Thanks,

Daryl

[Tim Marshall]

Nunatak has a top bag as does TiGoat (made by J.D.)

-Tim

[Paul Nanian]

The cost of the top bag at tigoat is $400. You can make several quilts from the best materials on the planet for that amount of money and about 10 hours of work each.

Quilts, down and synthetic, are not complicated and can be completed successfully by someone with even a modest amount of sewing experience.

Paul

[Tim Marshall]

truth

-Tim

[BlackHatGuy]

Of course, it's also true that there are those who have neither the skill nor the inclination nor the time to make a quilt, or any other piece of gear. Some of those folks are more than happy to pay a craftsman/woman for their wares and their time/effort, even if it's at a premium.

[Paul Nanian]

Persons without the time or inclination to make things show little interest in the "Make Your Own Gear" forum.

[Jerry Adams]

I'm sure there are cases of someone buying the materials but never successfully finishing, and then buying a finished piece of gear, which wastes time, money, and agravation.

For example, I made a tent in 1972 that I used a few times and was never very happy with. Plus my mom claims it broke her sewing machine. And then there was the indefinite period afterwards where she and I argued about whether or not I broke her machine.

But then on the plus side, if you get a feeling of creativity and satisfaction, then MYOG is a good thing.

Probably some people look at the MYOG forum just to get info, or they're deciding whether or not to try making something or just buying it.

[Paul Nanian]

"Probably some people look at the MYOG forum just to get info, or they're deciding whether or not to try making something or just buying it"

Yes, a good point Jerry, thx, which is why it makes sense to let people on a make your own gear forum know how easy and cheap it is to make down and synthetic quilts when it comes up that something commercial is so expensive at $400.

[BlackHatGuy]

"Persons without the time or inclination to make things show little interest in the "Make Your Own Gear" forum."

You couldn't be more wrong.

Some of us love to see what others are making and appreciate the effort involved. We like to offer words of congratulations and secretly house a bit of envy (though without the negative energy) at the wonderful stuff we see on the MYOG forum. And we get ideas for that future day when we might just have the time and inclination.

[Paul Nanian]

Fair enough.

[Author]

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