SUL Windscreen for BRS-3000T Canister Stove
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Sorry for the slow response guys.
I tried an idea for larger pots, where the edges of the windscreen touch the bottom of the pot. This allows for any size pot, and stabilizes the windscreen.
Didn’t work worth a darn. Not enough exhaust area to run the stove at full blast. So I tried increasing the exhaust area and added two more intake holes too:
Better, but still not able to operate stove at full throttle, and very susceptible to wind. Enough so that I didn’t bother with formal tests.
I have a couple more ideas, but it will be some time until I get to them.
Hi David,
I like your designs and can appreciate the time you’ve spent testing. Like many on this forum, I have a BRS-3000T , but wanted a wind screen that would let it function without ‘flame flutter’ in at least moderate breezes. Having some spare aluminum flashing and some spare time I came up with this:
Sorry for the sideways image. I’ve found that ,at least with this design, there can’t be any air gap between the pot and windscreen on the up-wind side. The down-wind side is wide open as is the underside. Heat radiated onto the top of the canister increases its temperature slightly, but still passes the finger test. And ,importantly, the screen fits inside my 400 ml pot as well as reducing boil time by about 30%, again, in a light breeze. In a strong wind I’d set up in a more sheltered area.
It has enough air flow to allow full throttle operation, but in practice I only use about 50% throttle.Your concept is a whole lot more elegant than this simple design and I look forward to seeing your perfected final iteration.
rob
David,
Curious, maybe your Ti screen is thinner than my Al flashing.I don’t have a micrometer so I can’t measure its thickness, but it’s pretty thin, but yet rigid enough to not droop as shown in the first photo below with the pot boiling. A friend gave me some of the flashing years ago so I have no idea what grade it is, but it’s very light and I cut it with scissors. I should have mentioned that the protrusions at each end that slot into the triangular openings on the BRS pot supports need to be ‘lobed’,( that is to say not straight-sided) so that they will lock into position when the windscreen is installed. You can see their shape in one of the photos below. The lobes need to be small enough to fit into the wider(inner) end of the pot support opening, but larger than the outer part of the pot support opening so that they are held in place via tension.
And Brad brings up a good point should you encounter drooping. So I made a hanging support for the third (middle ) pot support from a paper clip bent to shape that keeps the windscreen from drooping , whatever the cause. Hope this helps:
Rob
I missed this thread
Another design:
That gives you a heat exchanger effect also, about 10% efficiency improvement. Fits into pot. 1.25 ounces
Yesterday I tested a proof-of-concept prototype of a new design roughly inspired by the MSR Windburner. No strict protocols followed, just wanted to see if it worked.
Cold tap water, outdoors in breezy conditions, three burns with and three burns without, stove setting not changed between burns. The burns were all done in pairs, first with and then without, at the same burner setting to eliminate that variable. Early results are very encouraging: average time with = 4:29 to boil, average time without 9:13.
Used .003″ stainless steel for this prototype. Mesh is 120 openings/inch. Weight = 1.196 oz/33.90 gm.
One of the things I really like about this particular setup is that I can use the same windscreen whether I’m burning alcohol, Esbits, wood, or butane.
I’ve ordered some Ti sheet, foil and mesh to make a pre-production prototype and will update this thread when it’s done.
It has enough air flow to allow full throttle operation, but in practice I only use about 50% throttle.
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