What is needed for summiting 14’ers when snow is around?

[Steve Schmid]

Outside of a little snow we caught in late September on a Mt Russell hike, I have no experience summiting 14'ers when the potential for snow is involved. I'd like to take my brother out to do Mt Langley as early as May to knock out a 14er before our September Williamson/Tyndall hike.

Outside of your 3 season gear list, what do we need to bring to account for any snow that is still lingering around? Is it just crampons?

[Billy Ray]

Depends. If there has been no new snow for a month and it is May then crampons and ice axe. If there is new snow you could need something for flotation, like skis or snow shoes. But if it is steep and there is new snow in the past week or so and you don't have experience you had best stay away due to potential avalanche danger.

The above also depend on the aspect of the slope. Southern slopes get more sun and are less likely to have snow and the snow that it gets will settle down is less time. North and Northeast slopes will be more likely to have snow and it will take longer for the snow to settle down after a storm.

So a lot will depend on the weather between now an whenever you go.

Billy

[Bob Gross]

It depends on the route that you intend to take.

For example, for Mount Langley you may need to get up to the Sierra Crest first. Going over New Army Pass could be tricky. Army Pass might be even worse. Once on the crest, the entire way up to Mount Langley is south-facing, so it shouldn't be too bad. This assumes that there hasn't been any recent snow.

If it is cold and/or snowy, then your backpacking gear may change a little. You may want to double the amount of stove fuel. If there is snow on the ground, then double up on the amount of sunscreen that you use. Also if there is snow on the ground, take the newest trail map for Mount Langley that NPS published. They have been trying to discourage hikers making fifty different trails up to the summit. Instead, they have mapped one trail.

–B.G.–

[Will Elliott]

thing to think about is timing. Early in the morning, steep snow may be too hard to ascend without crampons. By noon, you may be able to kick steps. By afternoon, you may have a nice soft glissade. However, you may also have rockfall, or postholing, depending on the terrain. So a little more strategizing is in order.

[Will Elliott]

then crampons > ice ax, but if not, axe > crampons. A whippet may come out lighter than an ice ax + ski pole, unless you are using an aluminum ax and an ultralight pole.

[Anonymous]

http://www.summitpost.org/army-pass-normal-route/156296
If you didn't already see this. Appears to have some good gear/route tips.

Regarding route selection, they had this paragraph regarding whether Army pass or Army Ridge is better to take:
"When cornices and icy conditions prevent ascent of Langley via either of the Army Pass routes or the Winter Pass route, the army ridge route offers a moderately technical alternative means of reaching the high plateau which leads to Langley from the Cottonwood lakes area. This route has been done in spring conditions and should be suitable for winter conditions as well. In the drier seasons, loose rock would probably be an issue."

Pending confirmation from the ranger station, I've heard california has been relatively low on snow this year, so army ridge would be trickier(?)

Experienced folks won't need it, but I like bringing a short static rope for limited sections when downclimbing ice gets tricky. If you bring it, have a plan on how to anchor it.

[Steve Schmid]

Mt Langley for June 6/7th. Was hoping i could get up this mountain with some 3 season gear, trail runners, and micro spikes. Guess i was wrong! I don't have any professional mountaineering training so where should I start?

[Dave T]

Not sure there will be ANY snow on Langley by June 6-7! As was said earlier, it's all south facing, and no doubt will be cooking in the California sun for another 1.5 months. It's just a sand slog up to the top, with some steeper bits and rock here and there. Amazing views.

[Steve Schmid]

I was up there late summer in 2012. Should I be taking microspikes just in case? I typically hike in trail runners.

[Anonymous]

A guy died on Longs Peak last June. Ranger service said he wasn't utilizing crampons when he should have. For Co, I was under the impression that late July-early august were the best times to summer climb without crampons/ice axe. I haven't been to Ca so I defer to Dave T if he has more experience there and knows when the snow usually clears.

In case this is helpful, trip report from 2014 mid May

http://www.summitpost.org/mt-langley-in-a-day-via-old-army/851100

The 3rd photo shows a steep angel snowfield crossing and makes me a little nervous. You could probably kick in to that snow slap with regular boots or chip bootholes with your treking pole. If you start sliding on that angel though, it looks like a tough self arrest. Since my knowledge of snow structure is limited, I get nervous on crossings like that. I worry a snow slab like that could break and slide during the crossing. Last time I crossed one, it seemed pretty solidified by summer. Could an experienced alpine guy verify if that is or isn't a risk in their experience.

I'd talk to the local ranger station. Ask if the person you're talking to has climbed it or can defer you to one who has. Because of liability, it can be difficult for them to answer sometimes. Phrase questions like, how much snow is left on the route and what have you observed reasonably experienced guys using up there at this time of year.

[James holden]

You want a dynamic rope just as an aside

Remember that unless yr using the rope ONLY for rappels … Someone still needs to "down lead" when down climbing and will be subjected to lead falls

And even on rappels, theres no real benefit to using a static line unless you go very thin (under 7mm) which increases the chances of the line getting cut

Not to mention a 8mm 30m dynamic line can also be used for glacier travel

More importantly have the skills to use it

;)

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