Wind River Loop with Knapsack Col – Green Lakes or Elkhart Park?

[Al K]

I am planning on flying into Salt Lake City and have 4 trail days (possibly 5 days) for a Wind River Loop around July 25th. Previously I have done a long loop covering the Cirque of Towers area and I did a little day hiking by Green Lakes so I saw the views from afar of Square Top Mountain. Now its time for Titcomb Basin and Knapsack Col. I typically do 12-15 miles a day at 9-12k altitude and sometimes more if terrain is favorable and/or needed to squeeze a trip in.

In terms of Knapsack/Titcomb, is there a better way to approach it? I’ll be bringing trekking poles – is microspikes needed? I don’t own and have never used crampons or ice axe though I am good with route finding and comfortable with off-trail. I have come down the steeper side of Haily and Texas passes and found them quite steep but manageable. Any other considerations for Knapsack Col?

I have four routes options of varying lengths all pictured below and I don’t plan on returning to the area anytime soon. Which is the best?

1) Start at Green Lakes and end Elkhart Park with Indian Basin day hike – I rather avoid the time and cost involved with a car shuttle unless this is the definitive way to go
2) Elkhart Park Loop – benefit is shortest loop option and drive with day hiking in Indian Basin
3) Green Lakes Loop – Return via Green Lakes Trail (as pictured below) – benefit is Green River approach; con is an extra hour of driving each way and coming back on a lot of the same trail
4) Green Lakes Loop – Return via New Fork/Porcupine – benefit is Green River approach and new trail on way back; con is an extra hour of driving each way and mileage might be too steep

Thanks in advance for any advice!

[Michael Ray]

Al,

I won’t speak to the Col since I’ve never done it, but if it’s been a good snow year there could be a sizable cornice to deal with. You seem to consider Green River approach as beneficial but I don’t see a reason why. I’ve been up that approach as far as Tourist Creek at least and used that drainage to reach the Divide. It was fairly standard river valley to that point at least.

I’d go in Elkhart personally and have been on half of the route you show. I’d planned to do the eastern half from Indian Pass back to Photographer’s Point but my son who was 7 at the time wanted to get back home to mom. :) Not sure if they would be any help but I have videos of my trips on YT (link in my profile and look at Playlists). Be prepped for significant bugs.

[Brad Rogers]

Personally I think coming in from Green River Lakes is more scenic but the convivence of Elkhart is nice.

I’ve done it a few times but all in August.  Twice I’ve had little to no snow, but one year there was significant snow on the East/South side of the pass and we used microspikes.  It could have been done without them but we were carrying them for Knifepoint Glacier anyways.   The normal route on the East/South side is though some large talus on the climbers right of the pass itself.

I’ve gotten snow in WRR twice in mid August, so be prepared for anything.

[Brad Rogers]

[Murali C]

Al K – let us know how the conditions are Knapsack Col and Titcomb basin etc…we are starting Aug 10th from Green Lakes and following Dixon’s WRHR. I am most interested in snow conditions and how bad it is. I will taking micro spikes which I think is a good idea.

[Al K]

I decided to pony up for shuttle and going via green river lakes. Still undecided on micro spikes. If i do not report back with knapsack col conditions by 7/31 then respond to this post as I get notifications.

[Murali C]

Hey AI K – just a reminder to respond back with how the snow levels look – hope you had a good trip!

[Al K]

Thanks for the reminder. I got back from my trip yesterday morning.

I did Knapsack Col Sunday July 28th. No micro-spikes needed.

[Al K]

Longer answer/update. We went from Trail Creek Park to upper Titcomb Basin (above the lakes) in one day. Was hoping to get closer to Island Lake but one of my hiking buddies showed up out of shape so it was a long slow day. Still probably toughest day I have ever had with intermittent sun and frozen rain. Between Vista Pass and Peak Lake there is a long gnarly section of boulder hopping as well as a section navigating around Peak Lake. Relatively easy and straight forward cross-country hike until you get closer to Knapsack Col at which time it gets much steeper and you have to be careful again with the rocks you put your weight on.

 

Once I summited and enjoyed the views I had a bit of a panic because I couldn’t find the “trail” down. It seemed the entire Col/Pass on the Titcomb side was snowed over and extremely steep (so no glissading). I even started to rock scramble a bit on the north side of the Col without my pack to see if I could find an alternative way down – I came back a bit defeated as it was pretty sketch and I wasn’t sure I wouldn’t be cliffed out at a certain point. Thankfully my brother was looking around and found on the northern most edge of the Col just passed a bit of snow there was a way down that was not snow covered. It was hard to see from the top without peering over the edge/snow but it was definitively the way down (vs my rock scramble a bit further north). The way down was very steep with rocks of all sizes – always have three points of contact and test rocks for looseness. Very slow going until we were able to hop over to a long snowy section at a suitable angle to walk. Mostly a regular cross-country trek from there on out to the Titcomb Lakes.

 

My suggestion for a regular backpacker who likes some off trail route finding, scrambling, and excitement with good knees is to only go to the Knapsack Col once its definitively known a section of snow has melted out on the Titcomb side. If not definitively known and you still want to give it a try, then go up Knapsack Col from Titcomb Basin so you can see if there is a way up and turnaround before if not (the Peak Lake side of Knapsack Col will melt out way before Titcomb side). It would be very disheartening if you went all the way up from Peak Lake to turn back.

[Al K]

approaching Dale Lake (from Vista Pass)

[Al K]

The “trail” around Peak Lake (go up above the lake and then a bit of scramble back down to shore line to get back up again – great swimming spot if you have time). From Cube Rock/Shannon Pass side it appears there is no way around Peak Lake but just follow the trail and it will be fine.

[Al K]

Cross-country on the way to Knapsack Col

[Al K]

Only a bit of snow on Peak Lake side just before Knapsack Col (could of skipped it but it was easier than the rock hopping)

[Al K]

Top of Knapsack looking out to Titcomb side

[Al K]

Top of Knapsack looking out to Titcomb side – part two

[Al K]

the scramble down Knapsack on Titcomb side

[Al K]

relief found in the snow

[Al K]

Titcomb lakes in view

[Al K]

a windy home (above Titcomb Lakes)

 

[Murali C]

Wow! Nice…thanks for all the information – appreciate it. The pictures are amazing….can’t wait to get there!

[Brad Rogers]

Awesome pictures – I’m glad you had a great trip!  That’s certainly one of my favorites and I need to get back out there and do it again!

[Chris M]

Awesome trip. I’ll be out there soon and looking forward to it  How were the bugs? Was much going on in the way of mosquitos?

[Al K]

We considered briefly camping at Three Forks Park but the mosquitos were bad. We continued up and camped at Trail Creek Park where it was much better. No mosquitos in upper Titcomb Basin though it was windy at time. A bit of mosquitos at Island Lake during dusk but not bad at all. We treat our cloths with Permethrin which really helps. Overall the mosquitoes on this trip were just a small brief nuisance.

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